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Posted by: David
Date: August 03, 2010 03:06PM
I heard that Loctite Sumo glue was suppose to be good for plastic. I am not impressed with Super Glues--Krazy Glue.

BUT I need some feedback from you detectorists-repairmen-modifiers. What do you people think about this glue below?? Have you heard of it and used it before?? Is there a better glue than these below??

I always need a good glue as I just glued my metal detectors plastic coil ears the other day.

This is suppose to be the best(non 2 part epoxy) glue on the market, and all about same product under different names.

It was Pasco Fix now called Turbobond Powerglue, in Australia.

It is also sold as Miracle Glue and The Last Glue, in USA and Canada.

In the USA it is also sold as Lightning Bond.

It is all about the same glue, they do work very well, and all of them are made in Germany and much better than Super Glue or Krazy Glue.

They all contain a highly distilled alpha cyanoacrylate ester and some is medical grade for sealing skin instead of using stitches. Very good for metal, rubber, most plastics, etc.

It is suppose to be the best glue on the market, I heard a person glued his bumper on his vehicle with it.

Read this:
The Original Pasco Fix!

Industrial Grade German Super Adhesive

If you've ever heard about "German Super Glue" this is the original German-made adhesive that you've been looking for and can now buy!
If you've tried other brands of adhesives like "Super Glue," "Krazy Glue," "Crazy Glue" or other store bought brands, get ready to now be impressed when you try
the Original German Glue - Pasco Fix!

PASCO FIX industrial adhesive is an alphacyano­acrylate ester. The quality of the adhesive depends on the degree of distillation. PASCO-FIX is the result of many years of research and professional processing. For manufacturing reasons it is almost impossible to obtain a higher degree of distillation. PascoFix is a multiple-distilled glue for ultra medical-grade purity! This explains its almost unlimited range of adhesive possibilities. PASCO-FIX also meets the highest demands in terms of elasticity, resistance to cold and heat, and to chemicals. It is totally unaffected by water. Environment- friendly: once it has set, PASCO-FIX is completely non-toxic (children's toys). It is also degradable in water-purification plants.

PASCO-FIX outstanding characteristics are:

Simple preparation with no component mixing necessary, quick setting even on absorbent surfaces, and almost unbelievable adhesion.

PASCO-FIX can be used in industry (automobiles plastics, sports goods, model building, photo and optical goods, dental technology) as well as in the household. PASCO-FIX adheres: wood, steel, aluminum, porcelain, glass, PMMA, rubber, hard PVC, ABS, Luran and all other common plastics - to themselves and to each other.

Pasco - Fix is not suitable for: cloth, paper, teflon, polyethylene and polypropylene.
Note: for sticking polyethylene and polypropylene ask for our two special products, Pasco Prime and Pasco Pepp.

Posted by: David
Date: August 03, 2010 03:44PM
I just found this after I posted the info above:

(Very good GLUE info from Sven and also Evan, and yes Cyanoacrylate is also called CA as a nick name)

Modifications Forum
Fisher 1280X epoxy repair question,1230606

Posted by: Sven
Date: August 03, 2010 05:17PM
Cyanoacrylate glues are "super glues"
They are all about the same, just some have different properties.
You have your standard concoctions that dry hard that come in:
thin, med. thick, thick and gap filling
They are strong but have low threshold for hard impacts and will shatter.
They are not waterproof, they are water resistant.

Other formulations are made to give them flexible properties for gluing items that shrink,
swell and flex during temperature changes and bent.

Most of the variations of these glues can be found at most hobby shops that cater to
Radio Control boats, planes and cars. Many of the craft stores also carry some of them in smaller containers
and charge 2-3 times what the hobby shop will.

The cyanoacrylate glues are extremely useful and work great if you use them correctly.
I always have a bottle of the med. thickness sitting around with a bottle of spray accelerator. Cheap insurance and
saves a trip to the hospital when slicing open your finger, you can instantly close the wound and will heal without a scar.
Never use the thin formulation for cuts, it cures on contact creating intense heat and never spray it with accelerator, it will smoke
and bubble.

Other useful glues for Detectorists:
Hobby Lobby PMF
Devcon 30 min 2 part epoxy
Source for glues

Posted by: silversmith
Date: August 06, 2010 11:14AM
Over many years I've gravitated to the following; Devcon 5 min if it has to be clear, J.B. Quick for Epoxy and Loctite Black RTV Silicon (really tough but slow), best for most repairs. Gorilla is really strong but expands as it dries, sometimes makes a real mess. I glued a broken chair leg (wood to wood) about 5 years ago and it's still mended. Best, I find is J.B. Weld, but is very slow.

Glue tubes storage
Posted by: jabbo
Date: August 17, 2010 04:04AM
I started keeping my tubes of glue in a small jar with tight lid. Inside the jar is a piece of cloth soaked with paint thinner. So far the glue under the caps is not hardening and are easy to unscrew. I started this method recently so don't know of long term results.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2010 04:08AM by jabbo.

Posted by: silversmith
Date: August 17, 2010 06:11PM
Golly, I just love this web site! Ya learn so much here!. Thanks Sysop!

Posted by: nge
Date: February 08, 2011 07:12AM
Over many years I've gravitated to the following; Devcon 5 min if it has to be clear, J.B. Quick for Epoxy and Loctite Black RTV Silicon (really tough but slow), best for most repairs. Gorilla is really strong but expands as it dries, sometimes makes a real mess. I glued a broken chair leg (wood to wood) about 5 years ago and it's still mended. Best, I find is J.B. Weld, but is very slow.
have you tried JB Kwik it sets up in 20 minutes, and of course, full cure in 24 hours......NGE

Posted by: yamafz6
Date: February 08, 2011 02:21PM
Plastic weld it with a soldering iron I fix all plastics with a soldering iron. Go on Utube and u can see how its done. Good Luck, Dave

Posted by: grassguy
Date: February 09, 2011 11:07PM
I use PVC Cement on all kinds of plastics around the house. Haven't had an opportunity to use it on my detectors yet; but I am positive it would work. It actually fuses "plastic to plastic.":super:

Ken in NC

Posted by: Dan-Pa.
Date: February 10, 2011 06:53PM
Unfortunately all plastics are not the same so results may vary...I have a small hardware store near me and a lot of info and hard to find parts are available..Gorilla Glue great for many things but not metal...I doubt if all metal detector manufacturers use the same plastic surely comes to mind...and make sure you give it a day or two to harden whatever you use....

Posted by: starstern
Date: December 02, 2012 02:31PM
and mister glue as well", ?
when i tries to glue repair sole of my rubber shoes had best results with gorilla and loctite professional super glue liquids ,anyway now am interested foe best glue to glue plastic to plastic ,the kind plastic used in file dividers ,any suggestions ?

Posted by: Cupajo
Date: December 02, 2012 05:46PM
I did a repair on my Dual Field coil ears a couple of years ago with Shoe Goop and have never looked back!!

I later glued a pad on the top of the same coil the same way and after over a year everything is still tight!

Not may hunters stress their equipment the way I do and Goop has been a real winner!!



Posted by: Dodqe
Date: December 02, 2012 07:23PM
I use 'Q-Bond' on just about anything plastic or aluminum.
It costs about $7-$10 at your local auto parts store or Sears. (The link is to the 'professional size', $27)
It's based on cyanoacrylate glue and reinforcing powder. I have even repaired threads with this stuff... Can be drilled and tapped, sanded, painted, even machined.
You sprinkle the powder where you want it and add a drop or two of super glue and it solidifies instantly. Cool stuff.

Garrett Ace 250
6.5"x9" Concentric
8.5"x11" DD
4.5" Super Sniper
White's Goldmaster II
6"x9" Longscan Concentric
Garrett ProPointer
White's M6 (loaner from a friend)
Gobs of Noobtastic Ambition

Life's a Garden... Dig it!

Posted by: petrie
Date: April 28, 2013 02:39PM
guys go to lighting bonds website.. I am a gunsmith and use this stuff all the time I recommend the 55 dollar kit you will have it for years of use, the owners name is Harry Ness when you call him to place your order tell him Jeremy the gunsmith from Louisville Kentucky told you to call and he will give you a 10% discount.. I was sold on this stuff by Harry himself at one of our local gunshows, he took a used dirty belt off of a car and cut it in half, he then places activator on one side and a single drop of glue on the other about the size of a pinhead and then put the two ends together for 5 seconds and proceeded to hand me the belt. He told me if I could get it apart he would GIVE me 10 free kits of glue!! Long story short I purchased the glue got nothing FREE..LOL anyhow it is a great product it also comes with a bottle of like fiberglass resin, say you have a whole with threads that are stripped out, you can fill it with resin and then add glue it sets in 30 seconds and its as hard as steel or concrete, you can drill and tap this stuff. I use it on gunwork all the time it is AMAZING

Posted by: TC-NM
Date: May 01, 2013 10:51AM
I still like 2-step epoxy and GOOP.


Detectors Used:
White's XL Pro -- MXT -- Sunray Pro Gold Headphones -- Macally Wireless Headphones -- Lesche Digger

~ Been Detecting Since '74 ~

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