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Batteries....?
Posted by: Reddog777
Date: January 27, 2012 06:29PM
Have anyone notice if there is difference between brand A, brand B, or brand C batteries as for as performance. signal strength, target id, etc? No posting of brands is necessary. Just if there is difference.

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Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: MarkCZ
Date: January 27, 2012 08:26PM
A good battery is one that holds up well and gives you the most detecting time! (Premium Battery)
An okay battery will not hold out as long, but if the price is right they hold out well enough!
A cheap battery might die before you really get a good start at hunting, (not good at any price)

All detectors of the past decade or so runs on regulated voltage. That means that for example if the detector runs on a 9 volt battery the detector is isn't actually running at 9 volts, its running on a regulated lesser voltage of like 5 volts, maybe 6 volts.

So, when the detector indicates a low battery its saying the battery is getting near or is at the 5 to 6 volt range. So its not really dead, but the detector will not continue to run below its true rated voltage need and most of them will either beep or just shut down when the battery voltage gets low enough.

So, a good battery or a bad battery isn't going to help or change the performance of the detector other than durability (run time)
Good branded batteries will most of the time store better than cheap ones too, that means in the case where they are left stored in a device they're not as likely to leak acid as quick as the junk batteries. (Don't store your detector with batteries in it)

But, if your thinking you might get and extra 1" of depth with brand X verses brand Z its just not going to happen.

Mark



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2012 08:30PM by MarkCZ.

Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: hammer0419
Date: January 27, 2012 09:20PM
There are HUGEEEEEE differences in battery quality. It is most evident in a "demanding" devise. I am also into RC vehicles and helicopters which are battery hogs. From actual experience, cheap batteries have cost me more in the end instaed of buying the best first. A good battery makes all the difference in the world.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2012 09:25PM by hammer0419.

Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: NEBeachcomber
Date: January 27, 2012 09:28PM
Here's a link I just discovered today while viewing the forums:

Bluejay's Battery Guide



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2012 09:30PM by NEBeachcomber.

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Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: MarkCZ
Date: January 27, 2012 10:09PM
Now if your talking REALLY cheap batteries (junk batteries) then they can be so bad that they could cause problems it strange ways!
Years ago I bought some junk batteries for a flash light, they worked but the light would fade in and out of bright to deem, it was like they couldn't deliver a smooth constant power.
They're batteries that are such junk that it should be against the law to even sell them.

I do like the high drain nickle metal rechargeable batteries and some mid range dry cell's for back up (just to get me back home).

I Know No Names but I can't help it LOL!

But sometimes what I do is I might get some lower price batteries for the kids toys (they just visit on the weekends) but this is also one way to get an idea about a unknown battery.
The wife picked some up this past weekend and my grandson hasn't run his little remote (cheap) toy tank down yet. So I'm thinking about getting out a AA flash light and putting them to that test. If the light stays constant and burns for good while then they might be put on the list of batteries for backup (get me home batteries).
These are "Maxell Alkaline" AA's (they are Gold, white & blue) $6.00 for twenty.
Now don't run right out and buy a bunch of these because the verdict is still out on them, but so far they are promising for backups.

What I'm saying in this post is that its possible to find some good prices on decent batteries but its a good idea to check them out in other stuff first and even if they check out to be pretty good then at lest they would probably be good backup batteries.

Mark



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2012 10:10PM by MarkCZ.

Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: Reddog777
Date: January 27, 2012 10:59PM
But, if your thinking you might get and extra 1" of depth with brand X verses brand Z its just not going to happen.

Mark[/quote]

No, I was not thinking that at all. I just ask have any one notice a difference in performance with difference batteries.

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Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: Big Boys Hobbies
Date: January 27, 2012 11:10PM
Duracells or energizes work well.



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Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: MarkCZ
Date: January 28, 2012 10:06AM
[/quote]No, I was not thinking that at all. I just ask have any one notice a difference in performance with difference batteries.[/quote]

Quote
you wrote
as for as performance. signal strength, target id, etc?
Performance. Signal Strength, Target ID, ect...... you can put my comment in the "ect" part of your statement seeing how your title post referred to boosting the general performance, especially the "Signal Strength" part.

I addressed the fact that a lot of people don't know about electronic devices running on regulated voltage, a LOT of people think if they could find a battery with a little more power that their detector will do more, might ID better, get better signal strength, ect....

So went my reply.

Had you ask if cheap batteries will perform as well as a expensive batteries and as just a battery comparison, I would not have even replied at all. But you ask if they are some battery out there that is going to hot rod your detector!
The answer to that is NO!
Are they a battery that could give your detector more run time YES!

Mark



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/28/2012 10:08AM by MarkCZ.

Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: jmaryt
Date: January 28, 2012 05:27PM
they also cost more,with no real advantage in "length of service"
in my experience.i have experienced "excellent" results with "generic"
batteries at a considerable cost savings!..just sayin'

(h.h.!)
j.t.

Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: Reddog777
Date: January 29, 2012 09:12AM
Quote
MarkCZ
No, I was not thinking that at all. I just ask have any one notice a difference in performance with difference batteries.[/quote]

Quote
you wrote
as for as performance. signal strength, target id, etc?
Performance. Signal Strength, Target ID, ect...... you can put my comment in the "ect" part of your statement seeing how your title post referred to boosting the general performance, especially the "Signal Strength" part.

I addressed the fact that a lot of people don't know about electronic devices running on regulated voltage, a LOT of people think if they could find a battery with a little more power that their detector will do more, might ID better, get better signal strength, ect....

So went my reply.

Had you ask if cheap batteries will perform as well as a expensive batteries and as just a battery comparison, I would not have even replied at all. But you ask if they are some battery out there that is going to hot rod your detector!
The answer to that is NO!
Are they a battery that could give your detector more run time YES!

Mark[/quote]



Mark, I did not ask about any bateries that give detectors more power to hot rod any detectors. You do not know what I or a lot of people think unless you are physic. Then if you are, you don't need detector. Just use you physic abilities to find your targets. I know about regulated voltage and not all batteries have regulated voltage because of poor manufacturing which causes voltage drops. An affect can be positive or negative. Don't assume if you think that you know more that some people that you know it all. You don't and you never will.

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Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: MarkCZ
Date: January 29, 2012 04:13PM
Quote
Reddog777


Mark, I did not ask about any bateries that give detectors more power to hot rod any detectors. You do not know what I or a lot of people think unless you are physic. Then if you are, you don't need detector. Just use you physic abilities to find your targets. I know about regulated voltage and not all batteries have regulated voltage because of poor manufacturing which causes voltage drops. An affect can be positive or negative. Don't assume if you think that you know more that some people that you know it all. You don't and you never will.

I read your st**id question to mean what it said "Better Signal Strength" Target ID" "Ect" from one battery over another!
Now that your looking back on it you realize just how st**id your question really was, then you turn around and crap on me! I spent my good time trying to give you a fair answer to your question,
I wasn't being mean,
I was trying to be helpful,
My fist reply didn't belittle you or anybody else, it was a good reply based on your title post.

Then you fire back at me like I had done something wrong, What's up with that? (it was to late for you to use the edit option wasn't it)

What the h*** are you taking about in your statement?

Quote
You Wrote
I know about regulated voltage and not all batteries have regulated voltage

There is No such thing as a battery having "regulated voltage" where did you come up with that at?
Its the electronic device that uses a regulator to regulate voltage.
good grief!
An electronic device that takes 12volt in total battery supply isn't running at 12volts, it could be 10volts or maybe even 8volts.
An electronic device that takes 9volts in total battery supply is probably running at 5 or 6volts.

So the answer to your st**id question is,

If a battery is of enough quality that it can supply enough voltage above your detector's regulated voltage then there will not be any improvement to your detector's ability in either,

Quote
you wrote
performance

Quote
you wrote
Better Signal Strength

Quote
you wrote
Target ID

Quote
you wrote
ect...

Why am I wasting my time on you, my first post wasn't a bad post and I don't see any reason why you came back and blasted me.

I'm sorry if my post pi$$ed you off! I wasn't trying to do that, I just gave you an answer based on how I read your question. I didn't attack you at all in my first post. If the answer you were looking wasn't in my first post why didn't you pass it over and wait for one of the other posters to give you what you 'Wanted To Hear'.

Here I'll put the below in here because I'm getting the idea this is what you wanted to hear,

Duracell's in my detector increased the "Signal Strength" way more than Rayovac's and I also notice more stable target ID with copper tops, that's all I run!

Now on the "ect.." part of my detector with the Rayovac's I could run a little higher level of sensitivity than I could with the Copper Tops?


Mark



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2012 04:18PM by MarkCZ.

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Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: MarkCZ
Date: January 29, 2012 05:00PM
Quote
Reddog777
You do not know what I or a lot of people think unless you are physic Then if you are, you don't need detector. Just use you physic abilities to find your targets.

LOL! My physic abilities, that's good.

My comment about what people think wasn't being physic. I've been in on and read a good number of other forum topics and threads where this very thing has come up "Electronics using regulators to regulate battery voltage down to a much lower voltage" and as those topics unfolded a lot of the posters admitted they really didn't know that! so I stated a lot of people didn't know that, or didn't think that, boy that brushed you wrong :veryangry:
It doesn't matter to me what you know or what you don't know! who really gives a sh!!
You ask a question, I took it serious, I tried to reply with a real, sound answer just trying to be helpful and you got your panties all twisted up.
You Know That's Really Your Problem isn't it!



A Badger Brother

Current Detectors,

Fisher Coin$trike
Fisher 1266
Teknetics Omega 8000
Tesoro Tejon
Fisher ID Edge



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2012 05:01PM by MarkCZ.

Battery, or batteries, depending upon the make and model, can be a concern.
Posted by: Monte
Date: January 30, 2012 07:27PM
Reddog777, you asked a somewhat indirect question that was a bit vague (in some ways) and limiting (if we can't cite brand references).

MarkCZ provided a good answer below with regard to the detectors using regulated power to function which, basically, makes all the general performance similar. However, I'll throw my 2¢ in, for what it's worth, having used a vast array of batteries through the many years I have been detecting. Part of what I do, with regard to battery use and selection, is compare the cost & performance.

Quote
Reddog777
Have anyone notice if there is difference between brand A, brand B, or brand C batteries as for as performance.
YES, there are some differences with regard to 'performance' as I view it, and the 'performance' I refer to is in cost and run-time, or the functional duration they might last.

If a person goes out detecting for a half-hour to two hours today, then goes out again for maybe an hour later in the week, and perhaps gets out for a short while early on a Saturday morning and then maybe an hour on Sunday evening, it can be difficult to tell a lot of difference in the performance that battery/batteries provide with regard to 'run-time' because they have a brief use and power draw, then ample time to rebuild and refresh a little with the long delays before being used again.

I do my best to run batteries to death by hunting as often as I can and for as long as I can, limited only to available time, weather, and my health. When I was younger and healthier I could easily put in a long day afield without ache and pain. Even during some mild breaks during January to mid-February when it was supposed to be winter I would hit some of my favorite Utah and Nevada desert ghost towns. I could start hunting at daylight, take a 20-30 minute lunch break, and then hunt until sunset.

I recall one cloudy February 14th and 15th when I spent two days out there, with only a few sun-breaks but at least no snow on the ground. I only shut down the detector during that prolonged period for the short lunch break and maybe to water a sagebrush or two. The temperature at night was down to the mid-20° range and it didn't warm over 35° at the highest mark of the day, and during the day there were some off-and-on sun breaks. Due to the short daylight hours I probably have the detector operating for close to 9 hours each day.

I was younger and healthier and could put in that time without a problem, especially when the potential finds were there to be had. So, let's take a brief look and consider the "performance" of batteries just under these conditions:

That would total to about 18 hours in two days, with almost 9 straight hours or run-time per day. The detectors used ARE based on a Voltage Regulated design, however, less quality batteries just won't last as long under prolonged drain-time.

Consider, too, that the nighttime and daytime temperatures ranged from about 23° to ±35°. I can guarantee you that many brands and type of batteries will not endure long operation at all if there are some temperature extremes, and that was cold! So the "performance" can vary based upon the ambient temperatures where you are hunting, added with the duration of power draw. But it isn't only cold weather we deal with.

I like warm weather, but even until just a decade ago I could also spend long summer days in those same ghost towns, hunting when it was HOT, hitting 95° by noon and climbing to 106° for a high. Again, long, long days of hunting for many hours without any 'off-time', and often doing a few hours during the night when it was cooler, hanging around in the upper 70° to mid-80° range w/o the direct sun. Again, some batteries just dont last very long under extreme ranges or temperature, being too low or too high, while trying to provide ample power for a duration of use.

Today, a friend and I are working on our 2012 Coin-Count Goal. Here in NW Oregon we have had too much wet weather. Some park and school lawns are more like mud-bogs. It's also been just too cold and miserable at times, too, and we even had a few days where snow limited my hunt time. He's two years older than I am but I am the more worn-out and falling apart. I hunt with a cane and often have to take a break and sit down to rest the back for a few minutes. I can't move fast, I can't hunt for long before a break, so I can't put in the length of time or burn up batteries like I used to. We do our part to test battery life, however, as I am up to 709 coins for January and he hit 775. (He was slightly ahead of me but made good numbers Saturday with 130 coins to bump up his lead.)

The point here is that it is January and we aren't in a nice warm weather environment, and the detectors certainly aren't idle, if we have a chance to get out. So, battery "performance" is important to us. If we went through a lot of inexpensive batteries in a hurry, then the overall quality of their service would not be so good.

Now, I touched on duration or run-time which are hard service demands, and also related hunting in colder or hotter temperature conditions that can also impact battery "performance". You also need to consider how the detector models were designed to work, and as end-users we dont know the absolutes about their designed battery draw or life-span other than what the manufacturers suggest in their Owner Manuals, but just consider these few suggestions for comparison:

1.. Most manufactures who supply batteries with their detectors ship them with alkaline batteries installed.

2.. Most manufacturer's instructions state or encourage the use of only alkaline batteries, and some even discourage the use of rechargeable batteries because they have a much shorter run-time in their detectors.

3.. Some manufacturers claim a full set of quality alkaline batteries will provide about 20 hours of operation, while another manufacturer claims their model will go 15-20, or perhaps 30-40, or even 50-65 hours on a set of batteries. So, it is apparent that, by design, different makes and different models will provide different service-life, so "performance", to me, has to be based upon meeting the criteria to last as long as possible, and do so as affordable as possible.

In the end, I just divide the cost of batter (if one) or set of batteries by the number of hours of operation and I get the Cost-Per-Hour of run-time. From that I know which Brand(s) of batteries will provide the "Performance Vs Cost" for me.


Quote
Reddog777
... signal strength, target id, etc?
I believe that NO QUALITY BATTERY will enhance or improve the overall performance of signal strength, TID or other performance and display functions. The manufacturers made them to achieve a certain level of maximum performance by design, and instructed us to use the best quality battery we can. The regulated voltage of the detector will do the best it can beyond that point.

I do believe that AN INFERIOR QUALITY BATTERY will diminish the overall performance when called upon to respond to and process the visual information of a deeper target because at some point the lower-quality battery will run down sooner or easier, or under more drain demand just sort of poop-out on us.


Quote
Reddog777
No posting of brands is necessary. Just if there is difference.
Well, there is a difference. Times change, too, and I have seen good batteries become less appealing to me, and others that seem of lesser quality have surprised me with performance. I will state, however, that battery selection can be a personal thing. Too many people I know like the hobby but they just don't get out often enough to really enjoy it. If someone uses rechargeable batteries this whole thread might be on no interest, but perhaps it can. You see, it can make a difference based upon how much you travel and how much time you put in hunting.

I have gone out to my favorite desert sites in four states with friends who relied on rechargeable batteries. By mid-day they were out of juice! Trudging back to the vehicle for another battery pack, if they had one, and if it had sufficient charge. Sometimes they didn't get ample charge using the car charger and while they didn't rely on a store-bought battery each time their pack dies, they suffered more down-time because of their battery choice.

I have seen the same thing happen when people shopped a local 'dollar store' and bought up the 'standard' or 'heavy duty' batteries that were cheap, and sometimes even those that were 'alkaline' as a bargain price. Sadly, while it didn't cost them much to fuel up their detector, it was like driving a gas hog and they spent more on batteries than I ever would. That doesn't necessarily mean all inexpensive batteries are terrible, however.

Maybe Ray-O-Vac has improved their product, but I dont know. I have always tried to shop for the best value in batteries for me, based upon the run-time and cost. I did a lot of battery testing during the period from '85 through '92, especially, and shopped at various places for batteries. I was never impressed with a Ray-O-Vac alkaline battery when compared with an Energizer or Duracell. It used to be that the best Duracell and best Energize batteries provided almost equal performance and I used then to base my comparisons to.

I had some friends who were going to be joining me on an outing to a ghost town and state stop and wanted to be ready in case they had battery failure (in case they weren't prepared). I went to the local store a coupe, of blocks away but they were out of the major brand so I bought a Toshiba Heavy Duty set of batteries. They were the 'AA' size. I had been hunting a long time on the ones I was using and during out outing my own batteries bit the dust and I recorded how long they lasted. For personal interest, I loaded up a pack of those heavy-duty batteries.

During the next month and a half I used up the others because I was hunting every day and putting a lot of use on them. When the battery pack was gone and I figured out the overall value of those batteries, I was really surprised. They lasted longer than the Ray-O-Vac alkalines, two off-brands of alkalines, and all of the other heavy-duty batteries I had used. Actually, they almost matched the length of time I got with the alkaline Energizer and Duracell batteries, running maybe 1-2 hours less. The cost savings was great! I used those as long as I could find them available.

There have been some other alkaline batteries such as the Nova or Panasonic batteries that come in some brands of detectors. The cost worked for the manufacturer, and I usually found them to run almost as long and as well as the top-end Duracell's that I prefer. Today, I compare all batteries against the Duracell. In my emergency kits I have only three brands of batteries on hand for my radios and flashlights and lantern. They are Duracell, Kirkland AA's (made for Costco by the Duracell folks), and Utili-Tech (a bargain, off-shore alkaline battery I buy at Lowe's).

I usually keep the Costco brand Kirkland AA's on hand because I buy 48 for $11.99. That costs me just 24.98¢ each, so a 4-battery fill on a T2 is only under 99¢, and to fill my White's with 8 of them is just under $2.00. For me, their use-time is virtually the same as the more expensive Duracell, who makes the Kirkland AA's. You ask why the Utili-Tech batteries? My very old and dear mother buys some batteries for Christmas for detecting. In 2010 I spotted them on sale at Lowe's and got 48 for $8. That saved her money, and those 16.66¢ each batteries lasted almost as long in the T2 and XLT and MXT as did the other better quality alkaline batteries. What a savings!

For Christmas a month ago, Lowe's had a sale on these AA alkaline batteries with a 30-pack for $4. Only 13.33¢ each for an alkaline AA battery! Well, the useful life is just fine, and the price is terrific, so for me, the "performance" for the investment and time is there.

Duracell, Kirkland, Energizer, Utili-Tech, Panasonic, Nova, and several other decent alkaline AA batteries all can do what the manufacturers designed their detectors to do, and all can provide decent time of operation. None will make them go deeper, sound louder, or process TID's better. An inferior or low-power, low energy, or really terrible battery can, however, not work as well and that can impact performance.

Sorry to ramble. I spend more time two-fingered typing these replies than I do detecting, it seems. Anyway, I was also a little confused as to exactly what you were hoping for, and that would have been some souped-up performance, and that's just not going to happen. MarkCZ gave a brier and correct answer with regard to the detectors only using a regulated about of voltage, and I just rambled about how I interpret what performance I expect.

Monte



"Your Eyes, the ONLY 100% accurate form of Discrimination!"


Stinkwater Wells
Monte V. Berry Sr.
monte@stinkwaterwells.com
(503)481-8147
My "get serious" Detector Arsenal:
White's
MXT Pro w/6½"
XL Pro w/8" and 950
IDX Pro (modified) w/6½"
VX3 w/950
Tesoro
Outlaw, coming, will use 5¾"
Teknetics
Omega w/8" and 5" DD
Gold Mountain
VIP w/7"

Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: TerraDigger
Date: January 30, 2012 09:43PM
Personally. I am a big fan of Low-Self-Discharge NimH Rechargeable Batteries. If you do alot of detecting, its a huge money saver in the long run. For AA, Sanyo Eneloops and can use just about any AA NiMH recharger. For 9v detectors, MAHA Imedion 9.6v and its specific 9.6v charger. These two brands last as long as alkalines. A*azon is best price on these. The downside to disposables is if you get a bad battery, you don't know which is the bad one. And it happens. In the field, unless you have a battery tester handy, you wind up having to replace the whole set. With rechargeables you know from the gate if a battery is bad, and have it replaced. Before going into the field. Just my two cents.

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Re: Batteries....?
Posted by: jmann
Date: July 27, 2012 08:38AM
For my at pro i get about 18-20 hrs on dollar ge.,.,l batteries. I have used them alot and dont see much difference between them and duracell. 4 aa duracell-$3.50......8aadollar general -$2.50 .....just my observations on batteries. I could have never gotten away with that on my v3i. It was much higher demand on batteries.



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