Whites TDI Classroom

Most of the Ferrous or Iron will produce a LOW Tone because Iron compared to a similar size and shape NON-Iron is up to 3XS more conductive. Since Ferrous is out of phase with Non-Ferrous,
I believe 180 Degrees, there is a tuning tip you can utilize to ID the IRON.

When you are not sure that it might be Iron, make sure your at 10us and then turn the Ground Balance CCW and IF it is indeed Ferrous, the LOW Tone will change to a HIGH Tone.
Coins/Silver remain LOW. The LOW conductors don't really change much so they tend to not be IRON. This is particularly useful when you get a square nail or other shapes of ferrous standing almost vertical in the soil.

If there are tiny shards of ferrous or rusty metal....turning the Ground Balance CW will cause them to change from their HIGH Tone to a Low Tone or at least significantly reduced in their HIGH Tone Signal Amplitude. Bit for the most part, most IRON encountered is analyzed manually by CCW Ground Balance. On the standard it is pretty easy with that Large Knob. On the PRO.. just use the Coarse Control. Again, at 10us, this method will not work at 25us.


Method Two is to listen to the 3 Ss and an irregular shaped metal, not round, will give you a Miltie-tone effect depending on conditions. It might be a Strong LOW tone then followed by a trailing slight High Tone versus a coin or large nugget which gives off a much TIGHTER Signal in the 3 Ss.

To my knowledge the TEDI Standard and the PRO are the only ones that can perform this secondary analysis and identify Iron. Several years ago, I took my standard TEDI up to Richardson Park in San Francisco. Two of our Club Members were using NON-White's Explorer SEs. At the end of the day, they had chased after almost 40 pieces of deep Iron that fooled them. I only dug one nail which I was sure was Iron to Confirm my method and from then on, not one piece of Iron (A Low Tone that changed to a High Tone when the Ground Balance was CC).

That is your TIP of the day. Steve Herschbach was also aware of this method and there is a way to Silver Shoot with the TEDI and Avoid All the IRON. I'll let Steve Herschbach comment. This is one of the Tips we as local professional tend to jealously guard for our Loyal Customers, but since the TEDI is sold Face to Face, I don't mind sharing it with this particular forum. This is why if I were to leave the earth for Planet Mars and could only take ONE detector, it would be the TEDI PRO as long as I had no problem transporting the Lithium Ion Batteries, otherwise, SL all the way if the Trip were TODAY!!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/18/2011 01:06PM by au4greg.

Thank you very much for sharing, can you also use this tip with the new TDI SL.?

If not, why not.?

That is a Great Question but due to constraints, I cannot answer. Ask me this question in a month. If Reg or Digger Bob wants to answer it. BE MY GUEST!!!!
Until then, I reserve that information for my loyal customers.

Greg, you should probably clarify what conductive mode one needs to be in in order for this method to work. I use a different method since moving the GB control in mineralized ground causes real problems.

Digger Bob

Bob,

Call me and we can discuss this further.

Recently I told you about a certain person that read one of my old Posts on the XLT and Mixed Mode Audio. He Emailed me and said he had come across one of my earlier posts concerning this topic and said "I think you on to something. Send me EVERYTHING you know about the XLT." The nerve of him. This guy never spent a thin dime with me. I wrote him back and told him that I authored a manuscript on the Eagle through DFX Series INCLUDING the XLT and it was $19.95 and I offered to make it available to him. His retort "No Thanks, I don't PAY for Advice." Fine, Don't BUG me Mr Mosquito. He knows who he is and I know who he is. Guys like him have no customer loyalty and do NOT support their local dealer.

The TDI Classroom is a bit different. The TDI involves teaching Face to Face and we as Local Dealers have signed agreements to sell it as such. This is to make sure that folks will have an understanding and learn some of the Advanced tips etc. to give them the edge out in the field. I don't mind sharing some of what I know as not all Local Dealers have a level of understand as Steve, Ron, Larry, Andy and Myself. Sharing some information is good Karma. But, we have to protect Our Business to maintain that High Level of Service to our customers that White's Expects. Your not going to find a TDI on Overstock or some other Mail Order House which to me is a good thing.

One thing is for sure, Performance Wise, it doesn't get better than the TDI Series with White's/Jimmy Sierra OEM Loops.

I mis-read your original post. What I run up against is hunting in LOW for nuggets, how do you differentiate between those small, thin shards of tin can and a true non-ferrous target? If this is the case, then the method you describe doesn't work. No matter where you put the GB, they still sound the same as a good target, with a HIGH tone. I have a method of indentifying those that works on shallow targets, such as you would encounter in the gold fields, say in an old hydraulic pit. It's not foolproof, only works on the shallow targets, which is where most of your ferrous iron is in these old camps. Plus, you can't turn the GB down in most places as the ground then screams at you and you can't hear a thing.

Digger Bob

Yes, you can. It will work with all the TDI models. But be careful, it is not foolproof. There are things out there that cannot be predicted or tested absolutely in a lab setting. Things that seem to work all the time on the beach, will not work in the gold fields, for example. And a battle site, with all the different types of desirable targets, some of these tips may as well be thrown out the window. My main experience is in the gold fields of Calif and Nevada looking for nuggets. There are lots of things out there that are fun and profitable to find, but they don't follow the "rules".

Digger Bob

Bob,

Those LOW Conductive Tiny pieces of Ferrous react just the opposite... you can identify them by turning the ground balance CW or to the right of center and they fade fast and some times turn low depending on the 3 Ss.

Bob,

Of course, nothing is 100% except Death and Taxes. Iron Identification works well at our Heavily Minerlaized Beaches as well as the Parks. The last time I hunted with you at Q$Q!#!$$% it worked Beautifully. I haven't been up to the High Desert Area in the last couple of years because of the frustrating lack of targets. After 6 hours of hunting I found a piece of aluminum, boy was I happy.

I understand about the Rules, so true, especially when Rogue Dealers don't follow the Rules.... there is plenty of them and they all seem to have a common connection in Sweet Home.

If the Ground is Scalding Hot with noise, then it may call for lowering the Gain before attempting to analyse for Iron. Again... this method is most effective when set on All If you are in the LOW Conductive Mode for small gold only, turn the GB CW and the
Tiny Shards of Ferrous will Fade toward NO Signal.

I noticed a couple of typos and went to correct them but the Edit was missing. Is there a time limit on the editing???

Bob.. Help!

You have 30 minutes to edit your post, after that you will have make a correction post if it is that important.

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Bells and whistles are nice, but nothing will substitute for the basic understanding of the hobby.

CTX 3030, V3i, M6 W/Bigfoot coil, Cibola/modified

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Frank & Shine,

Can you shed some light on who Steve H is and what the issue is?


Bewildered in Foster City

Greg at the end of your post you said you would let Steve Herschbach comment on how he runs the TDI!