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CZ 21
Posted by: Buddy_TX
Date: December 24, 2017 01:40PM
Any one have any salt wet sand settings for a CZ 21. New machine for me have no clue where to set it to get started?

Buddy_TX




AT MAX
AT PRO
Detector Pro Wader, 8" and 10"
Detector Pro Pirate Pro
Tesoro Stingray
Fisher 1280x
Whites Amphibian and Surfmaster TR
Tesoro Silver saber
Tesoro Golden Saber II
Garrett S-1, S-2, S-3 TRs
Compass Q.
Silver Turtle
TR Turtle
VLF Turtle
and a few odd balls in the back of the closet

Re: CZ 21
Posted by: pasttom
Date: December 24, 2017 05:36PM
The settings in the manual are pretty clear. I usually go to the recommended settings (circled numbers) and see how they do then move out from there. I'd go down on DISC and up on SEN, but reading the manual should tell you all you need to know. I've had 7 CZs and beach hunted with all of them. Still have 2 3Ds, but to be honest I've not had a 21. It might help if you said what you are worried about. It is a really simple and great unit. There are tons of helps available too.



Pastor Tom
7 Minelabs, 3 Makros and a few others - rebuilding inventory
under the watchful eyes of my Welsh Corgi Sadie

Re: CZ 21
Posted by: Buddy_TX
Date: December 24, 2017 07:05PM
Well i have a number of freshwater units and have been hunting 46 years but all freshwater. Never salt, Ihave incurable lung cancer and going to try Viringia beach if I can in may or June , will only have a couple days to hunt and did not want to spend all my time figureing out the 21, have a 1280x but nothing like the CZ 21. thought some one would have a few prefered setting for the wet sant salt i could set and go on but seems on the 21 no one wants to share. I can find all kind of settings for the CZ 7a Pro CZ 3d etrack Expolorer II just not any for a CZ 21

Buddy_TX




AT MAX
AT PRO
Detector Pro Wader, 8" and 10"
Detector Pro Pirate Pro
Tesoro Stingray
Fisher 1280x
Whites Amphibian and Surfmaster TR
Tesoro Silver saber
Tesoro Golden Saber II
Garrett S-1, S-2, S-3 TRs
Compass Q.
Silver Turtle
TR Turtle
VLF Turtle
and a few odd balls in the back of the closet

Re: CZ 21
Posted by: tvr
Date: December 24, 2017 10:46PM
I've got a CZ20 and a couple of CZ6A's. I've had CZ5's but have not had an actual CZ21. All the CZ's I've had act pretty much the same so I think a CZ21 should act pretty much the same too; so here are my recommendations:

I normally run in autotune (all metal) at the salt water beach and then just switch to Disc 0 to check tones. I normally run the volume up high (8 to 9) to get the audio boost to make deep targets easier to hear. It takes away from being able to more easily determine how deep a target is; but that is how I set it up. With the volume set, turn up the sensitivity until you just start to hear a hum (on the CZ's I have that is a sensitivity setting up around 8 or 9). Ground balance it, and go hunting. When you hear a hum rise as a target is found, switch to disc 0 and check tones to help ID the target. No need to change sensitivity or anything else when switching to check a target. Then go back to autotune to continue searching.

If you want to get more depth information by how loud the target is, set the volume to 5 which is max with no boost to the deep targets.

If you want to start in discriminate mode, ground balance per manual. Set disc at 0 to listen to all tones. Set sensitivity to 5 (as per the manual). I think Disc 0 is important in identifying iron. Some times iron will bounce high tone, if you slow the coil sweep speed down to a very slow sweep, iron that breaks into high tone will almost always stay low tone. Big pieces or sharp cut edges may be low tone with a break into high tone even with a slow sweep, but at least you have some information indicating iron. Coil speed is important. A low tone to mid-tone bounce is a must dig for me (probably foil, but could be gold). If you disc out iron and aren't running disc 0, you may get a high tone that you dig and are disappointed to find you have dug iron.

If you find a lot of iron, you may want to disc it out. You will only know by seeing what the beach is holding. The half dozen times I've been to VA Beach, there has not been a huge amount of iron targets, but there have been some.

If you are hunting in discriminate mode, with the sensitivity set at 5, if you are getting a lot of false signals turn down the sensitivity until you don't get false hits. If you are not getting any false hits, you can turn the sensitivity up a little and keep doing so until you are getting false hits, then turn it back a little.

I hope you can make the most of your time at the beach. CZ is fairly simple to set and go and get very good results. It takes a little fiddling with settings to get absolute best depth, but even without fiddling, it is deep and very good at the beach.
tvr

PS You can set it up and walk from the dry sand to the wet, into the water and back again and probably not have to change settings at all. It is a pretty forgiving beast to hunt with.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2017 10:49PM by tvr.

Re: CZ 21
Posted by: Buddy_TX
Date: December 25, 2017 11:11AM
Thank you very much TVR that is what I was looking for
, a good basic starting point that may or may not need tweaking and the rest you gave me tells me how or when it needs tweeking. Thats a life saver to me
Thank you so much

Buddy_TX




AT MAX
AT PRO
Detector Pro Wader, 8" and 10"
Detector Pro Pirate Pro
Tesoro Stingray
Fisher 1280x
Whites Amphibian and Surfmaster TR
Tesoro Silver saber
Tesoro Golden Saber II
Garrett S-1, S-2, S-3 TRs
Compass Q.
Silver Turtle
TR Turtle
VLF Turtle
and a few odd balls in the back of the closet

avatar
CZ20 and CZ21 are always in 'salt mode'
Posted by: therover
Date: December 25, 2017 03:43PM
Buddy...you have a great salt water unit in the CZ21. Unlike the land based CZ's the CZ20 and CZ21 do not have a switch to change from normal to salt mode. The waterproof CZ's are always in what is called 'salt mode'.

The main thing you want to make sure of is your CZ needs to be ground balanced correctly. Practice ground balancing using the bobbing method. It's a bit more tedious but more accurate than the pin point method.

If you hunt in auto tune, make sure the sensitivity is set high enough so you can hear that faint warble sound. It's not really a threshold type sound but a sound that is constant and will change when the coil goes over any metal. If you then switch to discriminate mode from there, MAKE SURE YOU SWEEP VERY SLOW. Since the sensitivity at that point is set very high, a faster sweep speed will bring out false signals. To remedy that, lower the sensitivity. One thing about CZ's...if the ground balance is off or the sensitivity too high for the conditions, it will tell you by frequent falsing.

When using discriminate mode, I always hunt in setting 0. That way I can hear any iron and can also distinguish when 'iron wrap' occurs. That's when the low tone bleeds over to high tone. If you don't run in 0, then you will not hear the low tone when a low/high tone occurs and will only hear the high tone....and think it's a good target. Very deep iron will wrap into the high tone area. Always run in 0. It may be a pain at first but will save you from digging a lot of deep iron.

Repeatable mid and high tones are the tones to dig the most at the beach. There are times when very deep low/high tones should be dug. Depends on the conditions and the beaches. At old beaches where a lot of silver coins can be found, dig those deep low/high tones ! Many will be deep iron but I have found a lot of deep silver dimes and quarters when digging low/high signals.....especially when you circle the target at different angels and get only repeatable high tones with an occasional low tone mixed in.

The CZ does not need to be run with the sensitivity very high.

Also, when running in auto tone, the entire coil is hyped up and very sensitive. In discrim mode, the center of the coil is mostly the hot point. As you increase sensitivity, after a certain point depth does not increase but the area of the coil becomes 'hotter'.

To start out, like others have mentioned, you can start with the presets, but that means the GB will be at 5....that may not be the optimal setting on your beach. ALWAYS manually ground balance to get that point set to as neutral as possible. Also, ground balance often. It takes 30 seconds and beach conditions can change and you want your CZ to be at optimal at all times.

Above all...HAVE FUN. It's a great unit !!! Been using CZ's since the CZ6a came out. Bought one brand new and it's still going and is still my go to detector, land or beach. They are my favorite units.

Re: CZ20 and CZ21 are always in 'salt mode'
Posted by: Buddy_TX
Date: December 25, 2017 06:41PM
Thank You for all the help, Going to need it for sure. I got the cz21 for fresh water here in TX and Had been trying to get a CZ 7a Pro as i was told was one of the best for wet salt.
Fist one was advertized as a 7a Pro, got the pics and is was just a 7a non pro. Next one I had bought off the fourm come to find out was sold to some one who offered more money than I did.. ran across the 21 bought it and its lost in shipping some where. Still want the cz 7apro but have to wait on funds right now.
So thats why i am looking for salt settings for the CZ 21 incase i dont get a good CZ 7a Pro.

Buddy_TX




AT MAX
AT PRO
Detector Pro Wader, 8" and 10"
Detector Pro Pirate Pro
Tesoro Stingray
Fisher 1280x
Whites Amphibian and Surfmaster TR
Tesoro Silver saber
Tesoro Golden Saber II
Garrett S-1, S-2, S-3 TRs
Compass Q.
Silver Turtle
TR Turtle
VLF Turtle
and a few odd balls in the back of the closet

Re: CZ20 and CZ21 are always in 'salt mode'
Posted by: tmox
Date: January 11, 2018 01:31PM
I can give you one other piece of advice on the 21; hip or chest mount it. Its a beast and will wear your arm out in no time.

Happy Hunting,

Tim

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