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about li-ion batteries and the F series
- Thread starter dfmike
- Start date
MarkCZ
Well-known member
juit said:They called B.S.on your 1 volt burn detector theory, old and new metal detectors have a regulator than can take 30 volts, also when the MD is working the old ones have a big voltage drop and newer ones like 1 or 2 depending if using back light & boostmode
I never said "1 Volt Burn Detector Theory"
I stated that I would be more concerned about over 9 volts than I would under 9 volts! then you came up with the off the wall 20 volts to power an F5 and it will perform better now that's B.S.
I never stated that I knew what the ceiling voltage was on the detector regulators, but unless a Fisher tech told you they were 30 volts I wouldn't trust your source!
Look you come in here with your B.S Paint Ball Crap, and your trolling motor battery concept and tried to compare them to metal detectors and telling people that their detector will get better performance if the UP the voltage to some unreal amount is PURE CRAP and really bad advise!!
Old detectors would run maybe 15 hours on a good set of 14 AA batteries, my omega would run 20 hours on ONE Ni-Mh 9 volt battery.
New detectors DO NOT HAVE THE POWER CONSUMPTION OF THE UNITS OF THE 80's
The newer electronics do what they do and use way less energy doing it!
Well I'm glad your finely on-board with the detectors having regulators, that reduce the voltage to a lower voltage than the input voltage. Which means that even if you put 30 volts to it, its only going to pass through the 5-7 that the detecting circuits actually operate on.
Mark
MarkCZ said:
???
bro take a chill pill Im just messing with you, you started the pissing contest
anyway recap before you explode JKing
its safe to use the powerx batts
the techs told me that it was going to run nominal all the time thats actually nice
8.2 batts will loose up to 2 volts on f75 running all boost cache lights and wifi
also I only said that I read that a guy in Ukraine liked to run it like that
I only brought about paintball guns because Ive been using them for a while this brand this voltage and never let me down
we still friends right?
thanks, Mark, for pinging me that this thread got a little crazy.
for quite a few years now until rather recently, nearly all metal detectors have used linear regulators. The metal detector works samo-samo until the battery voltage drops to within about a volt of the regulated voltage. In the case of 9 volt battery powered units, the regulated voltage is usually 5 volts and things start to go squirrelly when battery voltage drops below 6 volts. Prior to that you may notice a decrease in audio volume but sensitivity isn't affected.
In the case of machines that use two 9 volt batteries, some models wire them in series to get nominal 18 volts which is then regulated down to between 9 1/2 and 11 volts. Others wire the batteries in parallel through rectifiers, and will work on a single battery but less than half as long.
The F5 wires 'em in parallel. There's no such thing as running it on 20 volts.
***** so much for that, now the rechargeables issue.............
Most metal detectors are designed for use with alkaline batteries, either AA's or 9 volt rectangulars depending on the model. 9 volt allkaline batteries start out fresh at close to 10 volts, drop very quickly to 9 volts, and then slide slowly to their death at about 6 volts where they start falling like a rock. AA's, same principle in proportion, below 1.0 volts per cell they kiss the world goodbye.
Rechargeables are another story. Regardless of chemistry, they run a fairly flat voltage until they're just about dead, and then quit. Electric shavers? you're buzzing right along just like you've been doing for nearly a month on the last full charge, and then over the course of about 30 seconds you're fighting to get that last wild hair before the motor stops altogether.
Rechargeable used to mean NiCad. Nowadays there are a number of rechargeable chemistries, with NiMH and Li-ion being especially popular. Good NiMH AA's have about the same ampacity as good alkalines (2200 - 2600 mA-H), but the battery manufacturers weren't putting that same kind of effort into rechargeable 9 volters. 150 to 200 mA-H was typical, compared to 500-650 mA-H for alkalines. I've heard that nowadays there are at least one or two 9 volt rechargable batteries that equal or exceed the service life of alkalines but haven't confirmed that myself. And, I'm not sure what chemistry they are. anything based on lithium will usually have fairly high capacity.
***** and then, there's switching power supplies *********
Linear voltage regulators waste any excess voltage, all they care about is current delivered to the circuit. Service life is proportional to the ampere-hour (ampacity) rating of the battery, not its voltage provided that it's got enough.
Switching power supplies are rapidly taking over in newer designs. These regulate voltage, and at that voltage they draw enough power from the battery (regardless of its voltage) to power the circuit. So service life on a charge is proportional to both the ampacity and the battery voltage.
Examples are our T2, F75, and F44.
***********************************
I suppose that the foregoing has clarified a thing or two for some folks, and further confused others.
--Dave J.
for quite a few years now until rather recently, nearly all metal detectors have used linear regulators. The metal detector works samo-samo until the battery voltage drops to within about a volt of the regulated voltage. In the case of 9 volt battery powered units, the regulated voltage is usually 5 volts and things start to go squirrelly when battery voltage drops below 6 volts. Prior to that you may notice a decrease in audio volume but sensitivity isn't affected.
In the case of machines that use two 9 volt batteries, some models wire them in series to get nominal 18 volts which is then regulated down to between 9 1/2 and 11 volts. Others wire the batteries in parallel through rectifiers, and will work on a single battery but less than half as long.
The F5 wires 'em in parallel. There's no such thing as running it on 20 volts.
***** so much for that, now the rechargeables issue.............
Most metal detectors are designed for use with alkaline batteries, either AA's or 9 volt rectangulars depending on the model. 9 volt allkaline batteries start out fresh at close to 10 volts, drop very quickly to 9 volts, and then slide slowly to their death at about 6 volts where they start falling like a rock. AA's, same principle in proportion, below 1.0 volts per cell they kiss the world goodbye.
Rechargeables are another story. Regardless of chemistry, they run a fairly flat voltage until they're just about dead, and then quit. Electric shavers? you're buzzing right along just like you've been doing for nearly a month on the last full charge, and then over the course of about 30 seconds you're fighting to get that last wild hair before the motor stops altogether.
Rechargeable used to mean NiCad. Nowadays there are a number of rechargeable chemistries, with NiMH and Li-ion being especially popular. Good NiMH AA's have about the same ampacity as good alkalines (2200 - 2600 mA-H), but the battery manufacturers weren't putting that same kind of effort into rechargeable 9 volters. 150 to 200 mA-H was typical, compared to 500-650 mA-H for alkalines. I've heard that nowadays there are at least one or two 9 volt rechargable batteries that equal or exceed the service life of alkalines but haven't confirmed that myself. And, I'm not sure what chemistry they are. anything based on lithium will usually have fairly high capacity.
***** and then, there's switching power supplies *********
Linear voltage regulators waste any excess voltage, all they care about is current delivered to the circuit. Service life is proportional to the ampere-hour (ampacity) rating of the battery, not its voltage provided that it's got enough.
Switching power supplies are rapidly taking over in newer designs. These regulate voltage, and at that voltage they draw enough power from the battery (regardless of its voltage) to power the circuit. So service life on a charge is proportional to both the ampacity and the battery voltage.
Examples are our T2, F75, and F44.
***********************************
I suppose that the foregoing has clarified a thing or two for some folks, and further confused others.
--Dave J.
MarkCZ
Well-known member
amberjack said:bit more fun for ya'sgot some lifepo4 (Lithium iron phosphate) 9 volts the other day just cause they are there and are cheap and the tech works also... have fun fellas...
AJ
Aren't these the ones that you are supposed to charge in a cooking pot because they are bad to catch on fire, and isn't these the ones that caused all the Hoover Boards to catch on fire? (That is a question by the way, not a comment) I was just thinking that if it is then its the same type of battery that causes a lot of fiery mishaps in the RC hobby world.
Mark
MarkCZ said:amberjack said:bit more fun for ya's
AJ
Aren't these the ones that you are supposed to charge in a cooking pot because they are bad to catch on fire, and isn't these the ones that caused all the Hoover Boards to catch on fire? (That is a question by the way, not a comment) I was just thinking that if it is then its the same type of battery that causes a lot of fiery mishaps in the RC hobby world.
Mark
no they are very stable the ones you are thinking of are lipo's for high drain RC units probs come with them the way they charge those like pumping heaps of amps in for super fast charging so they are fine also if charged "normally" you know not like a racing car driver
RNB use lipo's in their excel battery pack.so no the lifepo4 is probably the most stable lithium battery long shelf life and can take higher drain as well not that detectors drain like a drill or similar.
AJ