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Appreciate all your vast knowledge of detectors, and how to use them fine Sir....:cheers: ( Diet Root Beer Salute) LOL
 
earthmansurfer said:
Nice writeup Monte.

Question to (anyone) with an Omega 8000. I still get tricked by shallow and small stuff, often thinking it's something deep and coin sized. This happened with my T2 also, but I think less. Is this a typical problem and how do you get over it?

A couple of pointers. Small stuff you can usually tell by pinpointing, de-tune the pinpoint and try to trace the object. Deeper coins should have a softer sound, also I've been playing around with the signal meter, and to some degree you can tell the depth of a target with it, although it seems to be better for zeroing in on the center of the target from what I can see. I'm not sure how really useful the signal meter is yet.
 
Monte said:
Ca;_Cobra said:
I would love to see how the GB SE or G2 would do for ghost town hunting!! I live in Northern California, and last year for the first time I got to hunt a couple of ghost towns in Nevada...it was a blast :thumbup: At that time I used my F70 with the 11" DD coil and it did well for the short amount of time we stopped there (found a sterling silver pocket watch back, almost gave me a heart attack as for a nanosecond I thought I had a silver dollar :cry: ). I definitely want to do some more ghost town hunting....got a great 1960's book on Nevada railroads that has some awesome maps and fantastic panoramic photos of all the railroad towns (which were mostly mining towns then, but are ghost towns now).

HH,
Brian
I've pulled a couple of the big silver dollars from old town settings, but most of mine have come from urban sites. Early on (late '60s to the mid-'80s) I got most of them from parks and older, but still in use, recreation areas. Unfortunately, most of those older parks and common sites have been well hunted now for another quarter of a century and have been thinned out. Especially far fewer larger coins like dollars and halves. Most of them I have pulled in the last 15 years have been from out-of-the-way areas in the big city. Hunting back in the now brushier areas large older parks that were used heavily from about 1875 to 1885 and, while the parks are still active, the areas I hunt take a bit of work. The exceptions would be fluke finds, like the 1922 Peace Dollar I got from about 1
 
diet root beer salute?.elton!
definately a champagne analogy!..

(h.h!)
j.t.
 
And what is the reason for detuning?

Thanks,

Jason in Okinawa
Cal_Cobra said:
earthmansurfer said:
Nice writeup Monte.

Question to (anyone) with an Omega 8000. I still get tricked by shallow and small stuff, often thinking it's something deep and coin sized. This happened with my T2 also, but I think less. Is this a typical problem and how do you get over it?

A couple of pointers. Small stuff you can usually tell by pinpointing, de-tune the pinpoint and try to trace the object. Deeper coins should have a softer sound, also I've been playing around with the signal meter, and to some degree you can tell the depth of a target with it, although it seems to be better for zeroing in on the center of the target from what I can see. I'm not sure how really useful the signal meter is yet.
 
This detunes and shrinks the area the coil sees as you pinpoint. In other words it shrinks the area coil sees and isolates the target to the smallest area possible for accuracy. Dead centers the target too
 
Thank you Elton. That sounds easy enough. I think I may have done this several times by accident. When detuning, does the pinpoint get very silent until it locks on?
 
n/t
 
Thanks for this clarification. Perhaps this will help with my pinpointing skills which stink pretty badly.
 
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