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Angles again……

Ronstar

Well-known member
While detecting yesterday I hit several signals that first hit could be good. Im noticing at times I will hit a good high tone one way that simply disappears. Just a slight angle change will either produce a two way signal or it disappears all together.
A couple times I hit good quarter numbers but not repeatable. As a test I started moving 10-15 degrees at a time while swinging over the target. I would go from two way signal to zero and as I got nearer to 180degrees it would start to come back. In this instance the “quarter” ended up a metal stickpin. It was in the hole at a 30-45 degree tilt and I’m pretty sure I was only getting it on its face side. It was 4-5” deep but the thin edge side seems nearly undetectable.
Im learning a good spot needs to be swept 8-9 times from different angles in-order to detect probably all the targets. Anyone have similar experiences?
 

Picketwire

Active member
Yes, sir! Since my garage door is broken, I have scattered junk all over it along with coins about the same color as the floor. Every time I can tell what I am detecting without looking, I throw it somewhere else and just move stuff at random and sometimes set up situations. Sometimes a quarter won't even be the correct numbers but the right sound which will appear only in that 10-15 degrees for instance if there are tabs or bottle caps nearby. Makes me wonder how much is still there. It has also made me go slower and find more.
 

still looking 52

Well-known member
Also Ron, the deeper the target the more " ANGLES" will effect the signal.
I agree 100% with what your saying about just a small difference in the angle will often make the difference in how you hear it, that's why using the unravel method is so good, it gives you a bunch of new angles.
 

BigTony

Well-known member
While detecting yesterday I hit several signals that first hit could be good. Im noticing at times I will hit a good high tone one way that simply disappears. Just a slight angle change will either produce a two way signal or it disappears all together.
A couple times I hit good quarter numbers but not repeatable. As a test I started moving 10-15 degrees at a time while swinging over the target. I would go from two way signal to zero and as I got nearer to 180degrees it would start to come back. In this instance the “quarter” ended up a metal stickpin. It was in the hole at a 30-45 degree tilt and I’m pretty sure I was only getting it on its face side. It was 4-5” deep but the thin edge side seems nearly undetectable.
Im learning a good spot needs to be swept 8-9 times from different angles in-order to detect probably all the targets. Anyone have similar experiences?
I hard similar instances as you had after going back too places I had been many times.

Someone told me that after every winter those coins on edge might flatten out some and you’ll be more able to detect them.
Tony
 

Ronstar

Well-known member
Still just curious why sometimes they just simply disappear. This doesnt happen to me all that much but when it does, and I cant seem to find it, it gets exasperating. I know sometimes the coil gets bumped and sounds off but I’m pretty tuned into that. Also, if I get to going too slow with the Fisher it seems not to detect as there has to be a little quicker motion than say the Minelabs. I’m learning to try and remember my first attack angles and go differently each time.
 

Draco

Well-known member
My experience with Minelab Excalibur is this: it does not give false signals. If it gives you a good signal and then disappears, the metal is there. you just have to remove a little dirt and sweep again. If you can't find it, remove dirt again. I think it usually happens with other multi-frequency Minelabs
 

gunwolf

Well-known member
My E-trac does this... I will be over a target trying to "hover in" and the signal will disappear???? very strange right? I am walking and get a high tone... I stop and go back over the spot... yes a tweak one way and maybe a broken tone the other but still a high tone. the more i swing over the target it seems to disappear???? so I pull the coil away and sweep a different area, then I go back to the "spot" and the target once again is registering? does my E-trac actually null out a target? well when in doubt I dig... and guess what.. almost every time I have been rewarded! the detector originally knows it's a good target but may be partially masked... but why does it go to completely null while swinging over the suspected target?
 

Elmy

Well-known member
My E-trac does this... I will be over a target trying to "hover in" and the signal will disappear???? very strange right? I am walking and get a high tone... I stop and go back over the spot... yes a tweak one way and maybe a broken tone the other but still a high tone. the more i swing over the target it seems to disappear???? so I pull the coil away and sweep a different area, then I go back to the "spot" and the target once again is registering? does my E-trac actually null out a target? well when in doubt I dig... and guess what.. almost every time I have been rewarded! the detector originally knows it's a good target but may be partially masked... but why does it go to completely null while swinging over the suspected target?
raise the coil a foot above the target and hit pinpoint exactly over the target...lower coil slowly as you wiggle it .....but then again..."YOU KNOW ELMY"
 

IDXMonster

Well-known member
One of the big problems in these conversations is the fact that it is just that…a conversation. If people can start FILMING what they are experiencing you would see many different swing styles, speeds, lengths.etc. SEEING something happen makes things infinitely easier to understand.
Gunwolf says he gets a false and then it goes bad…yet he digs and is rewarded. Did this false actually pinpoint? How was it determined where to dig if it appeared once and then was done? Oddly enough, if I CANNOT get an initial signal to repeat at all, I’ve never wound up with anything good, or in some cases, anything at all. It HAS to have SOME repetition to it.
In my own experience, a signal that initially “blips” a high tone and then disappears is iron as I am approaching it. The edge of the coil will catch it and high tone, but then as the coil advances directly over the iron, the machine can then determine what the target really is.
I would agree that sweeping a site at different angles may have its benefits, but sweeping THOROUGHLY with the coil at the correct speed, the correct rate of advancement and correct height might even be more important when it comes to actually recovering coins.
A sensitivity setting that is too high will supply you with an abundance of light blips that can mimic a very deep coin. This is where getting the suspected signal to repeat is critical, falsing due to high sensitivity won’t repeat.
 

Elmy

Well-known member
One of the big problems in these conversations is the fact that it is just that…a conversation. If people can start FILMING what they are experiencing you would see many different swing styles, speeds, lengths.etc. SEEING something happen makes things infinitely easier to understand.
Gunwolf says he gets a false and then it goes bad…yet he digs and is rewarded. Did this false actually pinpoint? How was it determined where to dig if it appeared once and then was done? Oddly enough, if I CANNOT get an initial signal to repeat at all, I’ve never wound up with anything good, or in some cases, anything at all. It HAS to have SOME repetition to it.
In my own experience, a signal that initially “blips” a high tone and then disappears is iron as I am approaching it. The edge of the coil will catch it and high tone, but then as the coil advances directly over the iron, the machine can then determine what the target really is.
I would agree that sweeping a site at different angles may have its benefits, but sweeping THOROUGHLY with the coil at the correct speed, the correct rate of advancement and correct height might even be more important when it comes to actually recovering coins.
A sensitivity setting that is too high will supply you with an abundance of light blips that can mimic a very deep coin. This is where getting the suspected signal to repeat is critical, falsing due to high sensitivity won’t repeat.
also it is possible to detune a target out complete if it is close to iron and iron is the stronger signal. The etrac in normal pinpoint automatically shrinks the target down or de-tunes it.,,,Therefore , if you pass the coil over a coin close to iron and pass over the coin before the iron, you will get the coin tone....and vice versa for iron/trash first.
 
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Picketwire

Active member
Occasionally I get a disappearing signal from thin flat pieces of tin cans. They sound good at depth while flat but when dug they turn on edge and are discriminated out. Once, the coin was stuck in the mud on my shovel and another time while using a screwdriver, I somehow flipped the coin over a foot away without realizing it until I gave up and moved on.
 

gunwolf

Well-known member
One of the big problems in these conversations is the fact that it is just that…a conversation. If people can start FILMING what they are experiencing you would see many different swing styles, speeds, lengths.etc. SEEING something happen makes things infinitely easier to understand.
Gunwolf says he gets a false and then it goes bad…yet he digs and is rewarded. Did this false actually pinpoint? How was it determined where to dig if it appeared once and then was done? Oddly enough, if I CANNOT get an initial signal to repeat at all, I’ve never wound up with anything good, or in some cases, anything at all. It HAS to have SOME repetition to it.
In my own experience, a signal that initially “blips” a high tone and then disappears is iron as I am approaching it. The edge of the coil will catch it and high tone, but then as the coil advances directly over the iron, the machine can then determine what the target really is.
I would agree that sweeping a site at different angles may have its benefits, but sweeping THOROUGHLY with the coil at the correct speed, the correct rate of advancement and correct height might even be more important when it comes to actually recovering coins.
A sensitivity setting that is too high will supply you with an abundance of light blips that can mimic a very deep coin. This is where getting the suspected signal to repeat is critical, falsing due to high sensitivity won’t repeat.
I really wish I had the knowledge to film... I still use a flip phone because i cannot operate a smart phone. I wish people could see and hear what I do on a live hunt... alot of my recoveries were made on half ass decisions of what my detector was telling me.... yes I would like solid answers too, but I have none.
 

Elmy

Well-known member
I really wish I had the knowledge to film... I still use a flip phone because i cannot operate a smart phone. I wish people could see and hear what I do on a live hunt... alot of my recoveries were made on half ass decisions of what my detector was telling me.... yes I would like solid answers too, but I have none.
A program that would almost 100% correctly id a target...even in trash...tested and proven would be a magic program now wouldn't it? Does it even exist ?
 

RLOH

Well-known member
I have found some old coins in places I have gridded from two angles and then I get a perfect signal that I can't believe I missed. Try this when you dig a good one way signal. Go into all metal and sweep the area of the plug. Many times I get an iron or junk signal that has only left a small opening to get the good signal. I do this on most of my digs and what I hear explains why I missed the good target other times. I guess when you run out of hunting spots you can just about always squeeze a couple of more decent coins out of the ground. Good post!
 

Elmy

Well-known member
I have found some old coins in places I have gridded from two angles and then I get a perfect signal that I can't believe I missed. Try this when you dig a good one way signal. Go into all metal and sweep the area of the plug. Many times I get an iron or junk signal that has only left a small opening to get the good signal. I do this on most of my digs and what I hear explains why I missed the good target other times. I guess when you run out of hunting spots you can just about always squeeze a couple of more decent coins out of the ground. Good post!
absolutely true.....sometimes a long sounding target is actually 2 targets close together...the tight sweeping method you remarked on can in fact separate those targets and produce a good target from different angle sweeps. Each and every target needs investigated this way....slows you down but sometimes you win.
 
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