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CS7 Report (long)

A

Anonymous

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I purchased a CS7 from Bill several weeks ago and have used it several times on the beach and in the salwater up to my neck. On the wet and dry sand it is an very deep machine. I have an Excalibur and a Fisher CZ20 and 7a Pro and none can stay with it for depth. It is a very simple detector in that it is "hear the target dig the target." It is more sensitive on pulltabs, nickles and gold than any other metal. It is sensitive to all other metals but more so to nickels, pulltabs and gold. In the wet sand I have dug so deep that the hole keeps falling back in and just have to leave the target. I have not officially measured my deepest targets but I have dug pulltabs 14 to 16" deep. My scoop has a 18" handle and I used that as a guide...by this is not exact figures...but they were deep. I found one gold ring so far on beaches I know were hard worked and all that was left was deep stuff and the gold ring, 5 to 6" down was a flute, just was missed by someone else....but it sounded off like a surface target. It is an all metal detector and it does have the ability for some metal descrimination, not all, but alot of iron can be eliminated. I have been at the beach for numbers of hours four or five different days and the batteries are still showing good. At the camp where I am staying, the other day at 10 inches I found a no.2 or 3 buckshot. It sounded off clearly and I dug it. Like to have never found the shot the size of a BB but I did and measured the hole...yep! 9 to 10 inches. Found 4 other shots of the same size and they were 5 to 6 inches deep, incredable. If the unit is that sensitive to small items it will most likey find me lots of goodies and drive me crazy at other times....but no detector I own can hit these small size bb's or shot.
Negatives: In heavy rip current the control box is on the top of the rod and the rip tried to twist the unit out of your hand. I am going to put the unit on an "S" rod to try to eliminate this. You do get some small raising and lowering of the threshold in the breakers in the shallow surf as the mineral of the sea are disturbed...This is a very sensitive unit. Terry advised me to put a ground wire on it from the control unit to 3 inches of the coil and I keep forgetting...I have not tried that yet, need to.
I am delighted with the unit, it is built very well in structure and strength and in how it works. I have needed a deeper unit than the other guys to follow behind them and find goodies, this unit is super at that. I have not worked a heavily used beach yet like Daytona, Panama City, Fort Lauderdale but soon I will and I will give a report. I have never used a Aquastar or seen one but if it is 5 to 6" deeper than this unit I would like to see Terry Crenshaw's forearms and back...he must be a "brute." This is a deep unit. Frank
 
Hi Frank
Good report.Is the CS-7 afected by electrical interferes on the beach? I tried the SD 2200 on the beach it picked up electrical enterferes to much even near the water.I'am thinking of getting a CS-7 off bill. But I have to be sure I'm doing the right thing.
Thank's matey.
PS Thank's Bill and Terry for your e-mail's
 
I have had one area that has lots of building going on new Condo's. They were using bulldoziers, generators and lots of saws. Something there affected the unit and I had to turn down the freq. to escape the interference. In the campground where I am at two of the super motor homes send out some kind of radio signal that affects it but get 25 yards away and it is gone. Cannot explain this but I get a threshold rise on my sweep to the left and not to the right when underwater in 4 to 6 foot of saltwater. I believe it because I sweep just a bit faster to the left than the right. I am right handed and that make my strength against the current better in that directions as the left to right sweep is a backhand pull. I stated that I had not tried Terry Crenshaws method of using a wire from the housing to 3" above the coil, I will report on that next trip as I will not fail to try it. All in all I have been a reluctant purchaser on a PI and took several months to study all there was to read on these units. No one had truly given a total understanding in an article or in this forum to satisfy my reluctance to believe all that I was hearing or reading; metal detection in many ways is a lot of hype from several companies. There are many differences in Eric Foster PI's than the others out there in the market place. This CS7 to me in a nutshell is a "gold underwater detector in PI form." It was made to be a underwater gold detector and I believe he has accomplished that. You cannot eliminate all the iron but you can lots of it. I am not totally sold on it yet but I am likeing it more and more as I use it and see what it does. I have not worked a "iron trashy site" yet and most likely it would be out of place there but I do not know that yet. Ken, it is a very deep unit and know that it is a "low output detector" verses the Aquastar being a "high output detector"--I really cannot imagine the Aquastar. It the Aquarstar had the same ability to eliminate iron like the CS7 does and it had ground tracking....WOO! Frank Sorry I wrote a book...
 
Ken,
The Minelab SD2200D are much more sensitive to electrical interference then the CS-7 is. I have seem my SD2100 pick up electrical interference from a big mining operation 5 miles away in Nevada.
Frank, I have a special designed sand scope that makes it easier to dig the deep holes. But I do try to work out 1 1/2 hours three times a week to be in shape for digging the deep holes.
Terry in Hawaii
 
Can you borrow a digital camera and take a shot of the scoop.
I have no doubts about your back, forearms and thighs...I am sure your top shape and I know you have dug some deep holes.
Thanks for the help on the reply to Ken....Frank
 
hold up under the beach and water demands. Do you think there would be any advantage to such a scoop? Please supply pictures and ideas you've accumulated from the "School of Hard Knocks". The grounding wire from the case to about 3" from the coil really has my brain fluids bubbling. Wouldn't the machine read it? I'm sure any and all info you, Mr. Bill, Eric, etc., provide would really help all of the "water rats" that frequent the forum. Thanks for sharing guys.
 
Tiitanium is extremelly expensive to work with when making something, but NO 7 titanium is 13 cents per pound scrap at the junk yards. Titanium is just as light as fiberglass and most likely lighter. Companies that make chlorine and HTH like Olin, Dow and several others have to use titanium and the scrapyard near them will have plenty of titanium pipe... It would be much more durable than plastic or any poly material and lighter.
The grounding of the o.d. of the case, Terry will have to explain. However it is a proven fact it helps. Frank
 
The minelab SD had the same problem with static build up. Minelab said to put a small wire in your sock it must touch your skin or small chain and let it dragg on the ground. It will stop static electricty build up. This info may not be any good to you but I thought I put it on anyway.
It works in the dry ground in the gold fields on wet sand it may not work.
Thank's for your help.
regards Ken
 
First operate your PI with the loop in the water and the housing still out of the water. Then try operating with both the housing and loop under the water. If you have some falsing operating with the housing out of the water and no falsing or very little with the housing under the water. You need a grounding wire.
Terry in Hawaii
 
I doubt that a all plastic/fiberglass scoop would hold up. At least not for the deep holes that I make plus I like to move rocks when needed. My scoop is made out of strainless steel and it is reinforced to. I have went thru to many scoops that would fail after some use. It generally seems to happen just as you are starting to hunt. My scoop is heavy but it is built to last a very long time. It is a two hand operation to use while digging. But this works very well for me. While most people like a scoop that you can push into the sand by putting your foot on it. I do not but that is my personnal choice.
Terry in Hawaii
 
Thanks Terry, I was under the impression that the high end pulse machines are so sensitive that the scoop would interfer with it. I wasn't really looking forward to designing something out of plastic. You saved me a lot of time and trouble, HH
 
Sorry but I did not understand your question correctly on the sand scoop. You do have to learn to keep the metal sand scoop basket behind you while searching. You will know for sure if the metal sand scoop gets with in four feet of the Aquastar's 10 inch coil.
Terry in Hawaii
 
You are correct they are that sensitive, but you still need a metal scoop.
One learns to drag the scoop far behind, and keep the coil way out in front.
Mr. BIll <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
 
Agree on the 4 feet and in the rip it is a dog to keep back there....wish there was some space age plastic that would do it...but the company I was with for 23 years was big in plastic for industrial and I am not aware of any that would do the tick. Frank
 
Hello,
I seem to have caught the tail end of this discussion. I read that maybe a plastic or non metal scoop is possibly needed for your detecting.
Just recently, I constructed a scoop and it is a real beauty.
I used a piece of 5 inch heavy duty , 3/8 to half of inch gauge thick sewage pvc drain pipe about 12 inch long and cut at a scoop angle 60 degrees at one end and flat at the other. I have used a 4 foot x 1 and a 1/4 .inch timber handle and i have closed of the flat end with perspex with hole to act as a sieve on the flat end. I made two holes in the pvc scoop to accomadate the handle and used pvc glue, fiberglass resin and cloth and silicone to hold most of it together.
In the sand and shell beaches and sandy loamy mud it is brilliant and has so far been reliable. Looks primative and would not try and jemmy any big rocks with it, but it does "the scoop" thing wonderfully. I can handle the weight which is about 4lbs. I used a heavy hardwood timber handle, but I might change to a plastic one if a can find something lighter and as strong in plastic as the timber one.
It was very cheap to make, by comparison and the best thing is,it is absolutely undetecable by my detectors. (Waterproofed Explorer and GT16000 Minelab).
You can bring it in very close proximity of ones detector and , bingo, No Signal and absolutly no interference at all. Just remember,do not use any metal when constructing it.
Excepting of course WHEN you have scooped in a ring or coin or any thing else of metal in it, you will not be bothered by any interference AT ALL, from this scoop.
YOU WOULD WAVE YOUR DETECTOR COIL OVER THE SCOOP AND WOULD HAVE ISOLATED THE DESIRED TARGET VERY QUICKLY.
Now let me see, should I drag it behind me or in next to me or on the same side with the detector ?..............decisions, decisions.
Dave
 
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