Menu
What's new
Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!

Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

CS7umd

A

Anonymous

Guest
Ordered up a CS7umd yesterday. Going to try outthe world of PI units. My reason for going this way was, in using the unit I have for salt water, Tiger Shark, I just never go the performance out of it advertised in salt water. Fresh water, real nice unit. So after reading and hearing how good the PI units are in salt, I settled on the CS7. I dig everything anyhow, so now I guess I just dig it deeper. Find with me as while hunting water, my only interest is gold jewelry. Coins I get plenty of elsewhere. Any tricks to getting used to a PI comming from a VLF unit? I'm sure open to any suggestions on how to learn the ins and outs of this unit faster. I'll be out with it all winter hunting the wet sand and shallow water. Any do's or don't with this unit?
Any others using it in fresh water? I hunt a lot of New England rivers also. How do these PI units work around ledge rock? Look forward to your replys. HH George-CT
 
Set threshold as so it just goes silent back from tone. That will be the most sensitive setting for this unit.
Mr.Bill
 
I am a new owner of the CS7 myself, I have found that with airtesting,(completely different results than can be expected in the ground) this detector is most sensitive to gold at the highest tone/freq. Even though airtests don't report the same as ground work, I find my machine to react to a small gold ring deeper than my vlf GM3. Also, the coil sensitivity spots are different in air tests. i.e., in air tests the sensitivity is closer to the front or the back of coil, After burying said gold ring at 12" in red dirt from AZ, the sensitivty point moves to dead center of coil. Even though it targetted the ring well, if the dirt was wet like beach sand, I believe theCS7 may see the ring at 14" easily. Good luck with your machine. That Eric Foster has designed one fine machine in the CS-7. Best machine I have presently, can't wait for spring here as I am looking at 12" of new snow today her in Colo.
 
I am a recent user of a CS-6PI, a similar machine designed by Eric Foster for C Scope for the beach. I too, have come from VLF machine and have a few tips to offer to help identify ferrous objects easily using a PI machine.
On the NJ beaches, where I detect, there are sand retaining fences that are made of ferrous wire and wood slats. When these fences degrade the rusted, twisted shards of ferrous fence wire can be found strewn all over the beach My Minelab Sovereign would just go null but the PI likes iron and blips loud.
Here is one technique that can help you eliminate about 3/4 of the bad iron targets (sorry, it is not perfect). When you hit a target you must scan it from more than one direction (north-south, east-west and the diagonals) and listen for the classic "double blip" on one axis. When scanning along the long axis of a piece of ferrous wire traget you will get a beep on each end of the wire (the double blip), when scanning across the wire you will get a single beep. Anytime you hear the double blip, chances are it is a long ferrous metal object.
Just put a short 2 to 3" piece of coat hanger on the ground, scan it in all the multi directions indicated above and listen for the double blip along the long axis of scanning the object. Experiment with shorter pieces to train your ear.
If scanning a target in all the directions only results in a single blip, dig it. This is not perfect but it sure beats digging up pieces of beach fence.
Also, reducing the frequency (Freq dial clockwise) can extend the pulse delay and cause poorer conducting metals, like gold and nickles, to sound less loud or drop out. Unfortunately, the ferrous metal will still sound at both high and low frequencies and pulse delays. This is not true discrimination but it can be used to give you another piece of information about an unknown target.
Also, as you work farther out into the wet sand at lower tides, the frequency of finding this kind of ferrous trash drops off. So the PI is best used closer to the water while the VLF is probably a little better higher up on the beach where thes is more trash. But if gold is what you want, there will be some pain before gain using a PI machine.
After considering the above, you enter the area of personal experience in sizing up the beach conditions and using the proper tool for the proper conditions. PI metal detectors are just tools and need to be used when and where appropriate.
I hope this helps?
bbsailor
 
Excellent post, experience is hard to beat....Thanks, Frank Hamill
 
FOR THE PI USERS IT IS MY VIEW THAT I HAVE A GOLDSCAN-4 AND CAN GET RID OF ALL THE IRON AND HOT ROCKS--- WE CALL THEM CLINKERS AND HOT ROCKS--- HERE IN S.W MISSOURI. I CAN GET RID OF THEM UP TO FIST SIZE. I LOSE A LITTLE DEPTH,BUT WITH AN 11" HEAD NOT BAD. THEY SHOULD HAVE GIVEN ERIC FOSTER A HALO FOR INVENTING THIS MACHINE.
 
some great info on the CS7 PI unit. It should be here in the morning. Hope to use it this weekend weather permiting. Looks like I'm going to need a bigger scoop or even shovel. Been working on a floating sifter that I can just to toss the sand into and see it it speeds up finding items a little.
As often as I do this hobby, I'm like at kid at xmas waiting for the CS7 to arrive.
Whats the best way to handle the deeper excavations. I know the sand caves in pretty fast on any holes over 10 to 12 inches on what I dig now. On beaches with no one on them I like the shovel idea, but come summer, I rather keep it low profile and not look like I'm digging a fox hole.
Tnx George-CT
 
George, you're going to love this machine. With a little time and sand under your coil you will note that this machine is most sensitive to gold at the highest freq/tone. Do not trust the broken signal as iron/trash, as it could be a very deep good target. My air tests show that a gold ring may break and sound like iron when deeper than 12"...so dig it all!!! Silver comes in strong at a bit lower freq/tone. I beleive that you will find that slight adjustments over a target will help id. Time and experience will set you up for success. While I look out my window in Colorado, I see a new foot of snow, maybe three monthes before a coil can swing here. Lucky you coastal guy, I am jealous of your location today!!! HH
 
I know there is quite a bit of experience out there and I hope to tap that. When in the water I found that the CS7 was extremelly sensitive, my large SS scoop would set it off so I had to drag the scoop behind me...Is this the way you do it? I also used Terry method of turning the freq knob to help eliminate the iron and found that I had to use two hands to do that. I was able to reach up, way up with my thumb and turn the knob but that was a task...What are your method used to turn the knob and make the machine a one hand machine? Besides using a "S" rod with the unit has anyone done any modification to make it a one hand machine?
Also for extremelly deep targets in the water the sugar sand closes in on my scoop after 3 ro 4 scoops have been made to retreive a target, the scoop get stuck like in quicksand and suction. Has anyone figured a better way to retreive "China Targets" and there are many targets with this machine that are "China Targets." Wow! Anyone got this figured out???
Frank
 
Frank use "The Scoop" it will take care of those deep target problems very fast.
Let me know and I'll send one out to you. <IMG SRC="/forums/images/smile.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":)">
Mr. Bill
 
Hi Frank,
You posed a question a while back, about having a push button to shift the pulse delay back to help in identifying iron. From the electronic point of view this is not a big problem, both for the CS7 and the Aquastar. The real difficulties are mechanical in that to do the job properly, another cable would need to be brought out, with a waterproof push button at the end. For the reasons you state, having a pushbutton on the control box is not the full answer as you need a hand to operate it and if you are hauling a scoop, then things get difficult. The best place for the push button is on the shaft handle just by your thumb. It is then dead easy to punch the button each time a signal is received. To do that neatly you could have a second cable secured to the coil cable back to the electronics; either permanently through a gland, or with another connector. Problem is that, with both machines there is little room for extra glands or connectors. Could resite the battery indicator on the Aquastar I suppose, perhaps viewed through the side of the case. At the other end of the cable you would need a reliable waterproof switch and a small waterproof box to house it. Alternatively, how about burying a microswitch in a wad of gum and housing it in the mouth. When a signal is detected a firm bite is all that is needed <IMG SRC="/forums/images/biggrin.gif" BORDER=0 ALT=":D">
Eric.
 
Lets get down to the specifics of issue....What brand of gum would be best? (hehehehee) Glad to see you have a good since of humor, Mr. Foster.
My thoughts are limited as exposure to inner working of a unit is more than limited. From what I can gather space is limited in the CS7. My thoughts were a push button, rubber coated or capped like on the Fisher CZ20 pin-point button, but from your return it appears the battery lights would have to be moved, again expressing lack of room. My suggestion was prompted from a "users" viewpoint and not a manufacturer or designer look. I simply desire to have the unit being used as a "one arm, one hand operation" while the scoop is being carried in the other. The use of the pulse rate delay adjustment is a wonderful plus in this piece of equipment. From a country boys viewpoint there may be another way to skin a cat.
I appreaciate your return to my request and I know now I have planted a seed that may be used in the possible future. From my early use of the CS7 I know there will be future "Eric Foster Equipment" in my arsenal, I am enjoying this one.
Frank Hamill
 
Eric, if this is possible on the Aquastar, how about on the Deepstar? Would moving just the pulse delay be enough for this type of pseudo-discrimination (telling whether something's gold or not by increasing the pulse delay)? I was thinking there were other factors that needed to change besides the pulse delay.
Thanks!
 
I have made this mod on my deepstar and thru many test have taken it out. It works great on low ct. gold amd thin rings, but a big man's ring or class ring it will not tune out and if you think it's iron , then you just left a nice ring sitting for someone else. The only thing to do is dig and dig. Happy Hunting Kurt
 
Kurt,
Can you post the pictures and info on the mods and waterproofing you did for Deepstar?
Thanks!
 
Kurt,
Your correct it would have performed that way on your detector. The post was really meant for the Beachscan MK II, circuit that is also used in the CScope/New Force CS7UMD, and the CS6Pi. Perhaps it could be done to the Aquastar, and Deepstar, Eric would be best to answer that.
Mr.Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top