Just wanted to ask others if you have noticed the visual ID numbers being off for coins 6 inches and deeper. I have been hunting several old parks digging everything 34+. After a while I noticed I never see any 34+ ID on deeper coins. I have dug some bigger junk that read 34+ but no coins. So I tried burying a just dug up Quarter about 12 inches. The Quatro sounds off on it just fine but it reads 10 to 12? Now I am thinking I should dig everything that reads over 6 inches deep and is in the + VID range. What do you think?
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Depth and visual ID
- Thread starter keith
- Start date
Warriorwon
New member
Keith
I dug a clad 10c yesterday that gave a solid 37 and it was at 10".I'm having no trouble with depth and ID.Are you using the "noise cancel" at regular intervals?
I dug a clad 10c yesterday that gave a solid 37 and it was at 10".I'm having no trouble with depth and ID.Are you using the "noise cancel" at regular intervals?
Angela (Australia)
New member
Hi Keith,
Same question as Warriorwon, are you noise cancelling regularly? If you don't, the numbering does become inconsistant, and can jump around a bit. I like to noise cancel every 20-30min or if ground conditions change. You still should be able to read higher numbers deeper. I've pulled out coins over 12inches reading consistantly 34+. Don't be afraid that you'll noise cancel too often. In some of the ground I detect in, it changes so drastically, I do.
Cheers Angela
Same question as Warriorwon, are you noise cancelling regularly? If you don't, the numbering does become inconsistant, and can jump around a bit. I like to noise cancel every 20-30min or if ground conditions change. You still should be able to read higher numbers deeper. I've pulled out coins over 12inches reading consistantly 34+. Don't be afraid that you'll noise cancel too often. In some of the ground I detect in, it changes so drastically, I do.
Cheers Angela
Is a coin in the ground just buried will not read like a coin that has been there for years. I have tried it with the Explorer and the Quattro and find the depth or ID on a coin is not as good as one that has been there for years.
Also like others are saying the noise cancel is very important with the Quattro when ever you do any adjustments.
Also like others are saying the noise cancel is very important with the Quattro when ever you do any adjustments.
Thanks everybody for the advise. My biggest frustration is finding clad all over the place usually just a couple of inches deep but nothing deeper or older. I have managed to find a few Wheaties but thats it. Maybe the parks I am hitting are already hunted out or I may need more time learning the Quatro.
Mike (Virginia Beach)
New member
No, I don't think so. I think you need to slow down. getting the deep ones requires a slow and careful sweep. You can't hunt for deep silver the way you hunt for clad.
Also, that's a definite on the Noise Cancel...like everybody said, you MUST do that with the Quattro. In addition, I saw no mention of sensitivity. If you're running Auto, that isn't going to get it. Not for what you're looking for. Try manual at 17 for starters. If you can run 18 and stay stable, do it. If not, stay at 17 or even 16 if need be.
Finally, on the targets that ARE deep, and knowing what you know about your quarter test, stop obsessing on the 34 and above and remember to get a "read" on the land. You need to "date" the ground by what you dig. If all the clad and aluminum tabs and whatnot seem to be at 4-5 inches or less and you get a 6" 24 signal, it may be a coin. But what you need to do is WORK IT. You first need to accurately pinpoint it. Once you know EXACTLY where it is, tighten your swing over it to about an inch wide. Do the "Minelab wiggle" and work that ID number UP. You have to massage that target and make the signal rise. You do that by getting RIGHT over it and with the coil on top of it, shake that handle tightly...the way you would shake a set of dice you were getting ready to toss...(baby needs new shoes!)...you're really more like VIBRATING the handle (and thus the coil) directly over the target...not really SWINGING it at all. And while you're doing that, rotate the coil (and your body) around 90 degrees in either direction, while staying directly over the target. Work that signal and get it to RISE to the BEST and highest you can get. Often, using this technique, we can see Minelab machines take a "lowball" signal and turn it into a "digger". This technique was perfected with the Sovereign series but works with the Quattro.
Try that stuff...it works.
Also, that's a definite on the Noise Cancel...like everybody said, you MUST do that with the Quattro. In addition, I saw no mention of sensitivity. If you're running Auto, that isn't going to get it. Not for what you're looking for. Try manual at 17 for starters. If you can run 18 and stay stable, do it. If not, stay at 17 or even 16 if need be.
Finally, on the targets that ARE deep, and knowing what you know about your quarter test, stop obsessing on the 34 and above and remember to get a "read" on the land. You need to "date" the ground by what you dig. If all the clad and aluminum tabs and whatnot seem to be at 4-5 inches or less and you get a 6" 24 signal, it may be a coin. But what you need to do is WORK IT. You first need to accurately pinpoint it. Once you know EXACTLY where it is, tighten your swing over it to about an inch wide. Do the "Minelab wiggle" and work that ID number UP. You have to massage that target and make the signal rise. You do that by getting RIGHT over it and with the coil on top of it, shake that handle tightly...the way you would shake a set of dice you were getting ready to toss...(baby needs new shoes!)...you're really more like VIBRATING the handle (and thus the coil) directly over the target...not really SWINGING it at all. And while you're doing that, rotate the coil (and your body) around 90 degrees in either direction, while staying directly over the target. Work that signal and get it to RISE to the BEST and highest you can get. Often, using this technique, we can see Minelab machines take a "lowball" signal and turn it into a "digger". This technique was perfected with the Sovereign series but works with the Quattro.
Try that stuff...it works.
Warriorwon
New member
Shoot boy howdy!
Mike this is obviously NOT your first rodeo !
No wonder that you have sharks swimming on you post,you are a APEX predator yourself it sounds like!
I didn't even ask the question and I fell like I just went to school!
This is the first post that I think I have read that didn't say try this it said DO this!I'm convinced that you are right on the money(no pun intended)
Your comment on the sensitivity got my attention. I have played with it but never hunted with it,but that just changed! Your comment on the 6" 24 signal could be worked up(or down) by the technique that you described. I have noticed that before but was not sure that it was not me manipulating the target to read what I wanted it to be and was not or was multiple targets.You solved that question for me I will rely more now on what the machine says if the technique works out over the target.
Good post I really appreciated it.
If I had to work the same Beach as you I would consider basket weaving as my new hobby!
KEITH thanks for the post!
Mike this is obviously NOT your first rodeo !
No wonder that you have sharks swimming on you post,you are a APEX predator yourself it sounds like!
I didn't even ask the question and I fell like I just went to school!
This is the first post that I think I have read that didn't say try this it said DO this!I'm convinced that you are right on the money(no pun intended)
Your comment on the sensitivity got my attention. I have played with it but never hunted with it,but that just changed! Your comment on the 6" 24 signal could be worked up(or down) by the technique that you described. I have noticed that before but was not sure that it was not me manipulating the target to read what I wanted it to be and was not or was multiple targets.You solved that question for me I will rely more now on what the machine says if the technique works out over the target.
Good post I really appreciated it.
If I had to work the same Beach as you I would consider basket weaving as my new hobby!
KEITH thanks for the post!
Mike (Virginia Beach)
New member
I think you'll find the wiggle technique to work well. It takes some practice to perfect, but you can see the results begin right away when you suspect that any deeper target is going to initially read on the low side. One of THE most important things in getting proper ID is to accurately pinpoint the target before you decide you do or don't have a digger. If you're not directly over it, you can't get proper ID. Also, due to mineralization, other objects nearby, more than one coin in a hole, and coins on edge, it's important to sweep the target for a few different angles before giving up on it.
Now as for our beaches, I wouldn't trade them for any. If you look at the posts people are making NOW you would get the idea that the best move would be for somebody to just sell their detector and cash out of the hobby. But in the summer it's a beach hunter's wet dream out there.
I hunt the beach strictly at night in the summer, every Friday and Saturday night, about 2 hours on either side of low tide. It's pretty well lit out there, but I use a headlight for when I need it. I hunt the wet sand and shallow water almost exclusively, seldom going into the dry sand. If low tide is at 3AM I will be out there from 1 to 5. It's a formula that works and you avoid the heat of the day and the throngs of people getting in the way. And it's incredibly relaxing and peaceful as well. Plus, you sometimes see some wild stuff out there.
Here are just a few pics from my summer night hunts here in Virginia Beach.
This is about 2/3's of the rings I got one season...
[attachment 15138 SummerBooty.jpg]
This was a particular night's hunt right here...
[attachment 15139 5rings.jpg]
Silver and gold...
[attachment 15146 710b.jpg]
Diamonds, silver, and gold...
[attachment 15141 rings08082003.jpg]
One hunt...
[attachment 15142 3Julya.jpg]
One hunt, my best find this summer too...36 grams of 18K gold chain and charm. I've been wearing this one ever since. Jeweler said about $1500.
[attachment 15143 731a.jpg]
So you can see that our beaches are pretty active in the summer. This time of year though I would rather go into the woods and fields and dig up bullets and look for old silver coins, so that's what I do. You can walk the beach for 4 hours right now and come back with a few corroded pennies.
Now as for our beaches, I wouldn't trade them for any. If you look at the posts people are making NOW you would get the idea that the best move would be for somebody to just sell their detector and cash out of the hobby. But in the summer it's a beach hunter's wet dream out there.
I hunt the beach strictly at night in the summer, every Friday and Saturday night, about 2 hours on either side of low tide. It's pretty well lit out there, but I use a headlight for when I need it. I hunt the wet sand and shallow water almost exclusively, seldom going into the dry sand. If low tide is at 3AM I will be out there from 1 to 5. It's a formula that works and you avoid the heat of the day and the throngs of people getting in the way. And it's incredibly relaxing and peaceful as well. Plus, you sometimes see some wild stuff out there.Here are just a few pics from my summer night hunts here in Virginia Beach.
This is about 2/3's of the rings I got one season...
[attachment 15138 SummerBooty.jpg]
This was a particular night's hunt right here...
[attachment 15139 5rings.jpg]
Silver and gold...
[attachment 15146 710b.jpg]
Diamonds, silver, and gold...
[attachment 15141 rings08082003.jpg]
One hunt...
[attachment 15142 3Julya.jpg]
One hunt, my best find this summer too...36 grams of 18K gold chain and charm. I've been wearing this one ever since. Jeweler said about $1500.
[attachment 15143 731a.jpg]
So you can see that our beaches are pretty active in the summer. This time of year though I would rather go into the woods and fields and dig up bullets and look for old silver coins, so that's what I do. You can walk the beach for 4 hours right now and come back with a few corroded pennies.
Sanddigger
New member
He lives in my neck of the woods. Has helped me alot in person and posting.
Sanddigger
New member
n/t
Sanddigger
New member
n/t
Mike (Virginia Beach)
New member
n/t
Mike (Virginia Beach)
New member
It doesn't have anything to do with it. Ground mineralization on the Quattro is all done with digital filtering circuitry and is automatic.
What the noise cancel does is to find the most stable channel or channels to operate on for your conditions, depending on a number of things. Like overhead power lines, underground cables, other detectors in the area, transmitter towers, etc. It does this by shifting the frequencies the machine operates on slightly to compensate for other EMF sources nearby. It works extremely well too. One thing I loved about it was how well it works when there are other detectors around, which is a very frequent situation at the beach here. Many times it can be a real pain in the butt, whether another person is operating near you or you're hunting with a friend or two. Sometimes you can see the irritated look from another detectorist when the two of you are operating near each other. Or hear real bad chatter on your own machine as it gets electronically assaulted by another machine. So detectors get along a lot better than others, due to the frequencies they operate on. In that situation, when you run the Noise Cancel on the Quattro, all interference on both machines will cease and desist the moment the Noise Cancel completes. It's awesome. I was hunting with a buddy that had my Quattro and I had my Excal. He was driving me nuts but the Quattro was fine. I told him to hit the noise cancel and my Excal shut right up. Very cool.
And with the Quattro, it's sensitive enough that even in the absence of obvious interference it pays to run the Noise Cancel every time you power up. It will run more stable, get better depth, and hold a better threshold. It's a must-do. My Explorer II does not seem to be anywhere near as dependent on the running of the Noise Cancel as the Quattro. But I do it anyway, because I want every edge. And if you've had the Quattro hunting for a while and it seems that maybe it's acting a little sketchy or has that not-so-fresh-feeling, or you are now operating around electronic sources or other machines, you should run it again. Although it's not necessary to be constantly running it. But sometimes it does seem to help to "reboot" it from time to time by shutting it down, powering it up, and running the Noise Cancel again. It always seems to smooth it out, like a nice little tune-up.
What the noise cancel does is to find the most stable channel or channels to operate on for your conditions, depending on a number of things. Like overhead power lines, underground cables, other detectors in the area, transmitter towers, etc. It does this by shifting the frequencies the machine operates on slightly to compensate for other EMF sources nearby. It works extremely well too. One thing I loved about it was how well it works when there are other detectors around, which is a very frequent situation at the beach here. Many times it can be a real pain in the butt, whether another person is operating near you or you're hunting with a friend or two. Sometimes you can see the irritated look from another detectorist when the two of you are operating near each other. Or hear real bad chatter on your own machine as it gets electronically assaulted by another machine. So detectors get along a lot better than others, due to the frequencies they operate on. In that situation, when you run the Noise Cancel on the Quattro, all interference on both machines will cease and desist the moment the Noise Cancel completes. It's awesome. I was hunting with a buddy that had my Quattro and I had my Excal. He was driving me nuts but the Quattro was fine. I told him to hit the noise cancel and my Excal shut right up. Very cool.
And with the Quattro, it's sensitive enough that even in the absence of obvious interference it pays to run the Noise Cancel every time you power up. It will run more stable, get better depth, and hold a better threshold. It's a must-do. My Explorer II does not seem to be anywhere near as dependent on the running of the Noise Cancel as the Quattro. But I do it anyway, because I want every edge. And if you've had the Quattro hunting for a while and it seems that maybe it's acting a little sketchy or has that not-so-fresh-feeling, or you are now operating around electronic sources or other machines, you should run it again. Although it's not necessary to be constantly running it. But sometimes it does seem to help to "reboot" it from time to time by shutting it down, powering it up, and running the Noise Cancel again. It always seems to smooth it out, like a nice little tune-up.
To run noise cancel every time you do any adjustments to it plus when you first power up. With the Explorer it seems like only when you power up and when you get some interference while in use. I would always set my Quattro up to what I wanted, then noise cancel, if I changed the sensitivity I would noise cancel again. If I switched to all metal to check out a target I wouldn't if I went back to my main program I was using, but if I stayed in the all metal I would noise cancel again.
Rick
Rick