Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Digital VS Crosshair Screens what do you prefer & why?

A

Anonymous

Guest
I have been using Digital so far only on the beach till the snow melts....I guess cause Im used to seeing NUMBERS on a screen with other units Ive owned.....but I would like to hear what others use and why they use it.....
thanx
 
I find the digital screen to be more useful. I can ID a nickel vs a pulltab (usually), and I go by sound anyhow. I switched over to ferrous sounds since I started using the digital screen.
US coins seem to have a low ferrous content, so it seems to suit my way of hunting a little better.
 
First and foremost like Roy the tone is what is my first clue..I may be the oddball but being a silver coin hunter the digital screen never lies and usually double check it if an item is deep or iffy.Digital numbers on the other hand take it a big area but I can easily tell a wheat penny from a dime and above. Imagine going into nickels and gold jewelry a learned individual might benefit more from crosshair screen. All a matter of preference and what one gets used too and many use either to excell.
 
I like the cross hairs cause i can get alot more information than in digital. just a quick glance and i have a good idea of what the target might be, and I dont have to constantly be staring at the sceen at the numbers... hh
Ray
 
since it is a TID detector at it's core, the tone helps me decide whether or not to even bother looking at the screen.
I hunt in Ferrous sounds mainly because the things I want are right of center on the Smart screen, it is easy for me to discern the right and left of center tones. Only when something sounds interesting from several sweep angles do I bother looking at the display. Since I've already got the right of center "Smartscreen" clue from the sound, the number help me decide in an instant to dig or keep walking.
In my opinion most of the fun with the Explorer is realizing that it offers several detectors worth of configurability, meaning if I'm getting tired of detecting the same old way, I can reconfigure it a bit and have what nearly amounts to a new machine.
HH,
DAS
 
Hi Donny
The only thing about using digital is that you can not adjust any settings in the digital mode, you have to switch back to smartfind or iron mask to change settings.
The biggest advantage to using advanced smartfind is that you can jump over into learn mode, activate the small cursor, hit the button next to the X to turn on reject, then scan an unwanted target accross the coil to reject that specific target, then hit the X button again to turn off reject and hit the detect button and you have programed the XS to reject just that specific item. Its a good way to snipe unwanted trash. TB
 
I've only had the machine for a few months, so I am trying hard to train myself on the tone variations. I leave it in smartscreen until I want to study a target, to get familiar with where things typically end up. Then I'll switch to digital and back, as I move around the target. Looking at the screen is confirmation of what I heard..
 
When I had my first Explorer XS, I never used the digital screen because it just did not give me enough information to be of benefit. Since I purchased the Explorer II I have found myself using the digital screen almost exclusively. I really like the dual ferrous/conductivity readings. I still use the smartfind sometimes but I find myself switching back to digital for verification of the target. It is basically personal preference and so I would use both and see which one you like the best. Research is usually worth the effort.
 
Just what does 2 digital numbers do for you. I asked that question about a month ago and some of our more learned individuals felt it didn't do much for them. Personally the 1 digital number does well for me as if its a -28 or -30 its a dime and above and if its deep probably a silver coin..so I guess my XS is all I need...
 
i am new to the explorer as well as others but there is alot more info on the smart screen cross hairs as the andy book and the manual says .. you get the least amount of info from the ditgial ,it also says some where in all those pages that you need to forget what you are used to from your other detectors
 
agree that the ability to watch the crosshair activity gives "more" information than a static digital display, but when focussing on the tones first, and using the display as a backup, the digital mode offers a QUANTITATIVE display of the target that the crosshair would have a hard time matching.
Certainly we can see that the crosshair is in the nickel/tab area, but the digital display gives us a much "closer" look at what the machine is seeing.
Moral of the story (from my perspective) tones first, data second.
I hope this helps.
DAS</STRONG>
 
It has enabled me to zero in and discriminate between nickels and most pulltabs, pennies and screwtops etc. I still get fooled sometimes but I tend to dig a lot less trash. When I used the Exp 1 the single number did not give enough info to attempt to discriminate between these items. The ferrous number tells the tale on a lot of junk items. Maybe it's not for everyone but it works for me.
 
31-30 is iron and so is 31-31, 28-30, 31-28
22-03 can be a nickel with a penny (surprisingly this has been quite reliable for me)
10-01 is foil while 02-01 is a crown cap
10-02 was once a nice thin 10k ring while 02-02 is a crown cap
03-06 is a bent or broken pulltab
11-01 has turned out to be a nice 14k thin ring and very seldom foil
00-00 CROWN CAPS! while 10-00 is interesting
15-29 aluminum screw caps or brass relics/junk while 00-29 is a quarter or a serious silver!
10-06 NICKEL!
06-26 clad penny while 00-26 deep dime
10-22 with a mid tone was once a BIG @$$ gold ring
00-22 is usually a waste of time.
There are lots more, but these come to mind.
HH, bing
 
Hi Tom & others.........you make some great points the learn feature is very kool... and I will try each of the methods mentioned in all these posts on this topic for sure regarding which screen to use hunting........with the snow on the ground I am now limited to beach hunting cant wait to try the other modes huntng on inland sites soon too, I am really learning the XS and hope to become more proficient as I go along...........these forums ae a grat source of learning and I appreciate everyones input big time!!
HH
 
ALWAYS depend on the "sound" first, period! In time you will be able to distinguish a silver coin mixed in with other trash. Usually when a trash item is close to the coil your graph will go crazy and not seperate them, and be all over the screen. A nice crisp sound, sound, sound, dig, dig, dig! You'll learn after digging enough <img src="/metal/html/oh.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":O">
 
Top