Does anyone use any of the patterns out of Andy Sabishs Explorer book?

[Neil]

I just put the jewelry pattern in my XS and will be giving it a try at the ocean. Does anyone else use any of those patterns or set theirs up specifically for something? If so how does it work? Seems like I read alot of people run barebones and bypass the patterns.

HH
Neil

 

[dewcon4414]

He does make some good points, but you have to be willing to miss some less expensive targets... or those unknowns. Ive used patterns in junky areas just looking for older coins. However, you really have to deal with those nulls. Its all in how you hunt different areas. Much like choseing a machine..... you use what works for your style.

 

[digitrich]

You will have a tendency to miss allot of targets because of nulling and the fact that in different areas many times like coins don't always signal in the same place on the smart find screen. I used to hunt a park where all my Wheaties hit by Indian pennies and in the same town 3 blocks away they would hit where memorial cents did. Then in the next town over in a farm field, Indians would hit in the dime range. And if there is also iron in the hole with the target, you are just going to hear the iron null and therefore never hear the coin signal at all. The sooner you learn to (deal) I mean hunt in all metal the faster your quality of finds will go up. Instead of nulling out the iron, try using a smaller coil and get used to ignoring the low iron grunts and picking out the high repeating tones out of that jumbled mess of sounds that you're hearing. It is hard at first. I first blacked out the first quarter inch of the smart find screen in iron mask and that's how I would hunt. Then every hunt I would try all metal for about twenty minutes until it drove me insane and I would switch back and forth and then one day it just stopped bothering me to hunt in all metal and I've done it that way ever since. Any type of discrimination will cause you to miss targets due to the fact that the machine seems to take longer to come back from a null and report the next target then it does to report an iron grunt and then a target. Just make sure your signals repeat swinging North to South and also East to West, if it repeats in both those directions, no matter how faint, that's a definite target.

 

[Neil]

I had loaded the gold jewelry pattern that andy has in his book and what I did was hunt like I normally do, in iron mask 14(on my XS) which is just enough to knock out the smallest iron and checked targets both deep and shallow with the gold pattern. This is at the ocean by the way.
The gold pattern almost completely knocks out the deepest nickels and foil tones, you really have to fiddle around with it to get them to repeat whereas in iron mask they hit well, faint of course on the deepies but repeatable and leaves me feeling confident if my coil goes over something within range it will sound off on it. on the shallower stuff the pattern worked well so Im going to save it for fresh drops this summer and try it again.

HH
Neil

 

[digitrich]

n/t

 

[dewcon4414]

digitrich, have you tried audio long? I dont find hunting with just nails disc out to be to noisy. Ive not used AM so i cant remember if you get just one tone or the varied audio response. Good info thanks digitrich.

 

[digitrich]

Yeah, I have used audio long and had some awesome results with it, all your tones are the same just longer, which allows more time for you to reconize the good tones in the middle of iron grunts, but again, just remember to make sure it repeats when you swing left to right, turn 90 degrees, and again swing left to right. Audio long is allot like AM in that it feels like audio overload and some find it hard to take but again slowly work into it for 10 minutes here and there in a couple of hunts.