sovereignelite
New member
So are the extra features on the GT so advantageous that they are necessities in comparison to it's predecessor the Elite? Any thoughts, info, tips? Thanks in advance!
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Elite VS GT: Major advantages of one over the other?
- Thread starter sovereignelite
- Start date
I have tried all the Sovereigns as they have come out and they are all good, but some are better to me than others. When I got the Elite The battery system was a big improvement and the new 10 inch Tornado coil was also on the Elite from what we had before. The controls were in different location so many of us that had been using Sovereigns before were used to the older ones, so we would be turning the wrong controls when we went to adjust them. My first time out with it the signals sounded a lot deeper than what they were as I was used to the older Sovereigns that seem to have a better signal for me. I tried 2 other Elites and they too seem the same for me. Now when the GT came out Minelab put the controls back to where the older XS series were and added a few more toggle switches, but right away I notice I had better signals on targets as the weak signals were deeper compared to my Elite. I also notice a little more falsing on iron which I felt made the GT more sensitive and seen where some of the signals I had to check from a different angle to tell if iron or not. I wonder if this is why the GT has the iron mask toggle as it is more sensitive and you turn off the iron mask so nails don't fool you as much for those learning the GT. With the GT the all metal tracking is used for those that want to prospect with the changing ground condition or locked in one position. Some like this feature and some don't even use it like me as I am a coin and relic hunter and to me I get more depth and response in disc mode.
I know some will say they don't see much of a difference performance wise in the Elite verses the GT, but feel those that are well experienced with the Sovereign can see the difference. I could be wrong, but feel the Elite was one or is the shortest lived model of a Sovereign before a new one came out.
Right or wrong that is my opinion from actual use of my Sovereigns in actual hunts for actual lost items.
Rick
I know some will say they don't see much of a difference performance wise in the Elite verses the GT, but feel those that are well experienced with the Sovereign can see the difference. I could be wrong, but feel the Elite was one or is the shortest lived model of a Sovereign before a new one came out.
Right or wrong that is my opinion from actual use of my Sovereigns in actual hunts for actual lost items.
Rick
sovereignelite said:So are the extra features on the GT so advantageous that they are necessities in comparison to it's predecessor the Elite? Any thoughts, info, tips? Thanks in advance!
I've had both and the only big advantages I see on the GT over the Elite are the more durable finish and the stock straight shaft
. I don't really make use of the silent search or iron mask on/off ability, but that's not the whole story.I think you have to compare more than one of each model (Elite and GT) to get a sense if one is (Better/Deeper/More Stable) than the other. I have had 2 Elites and 4 GT's in the past 4 years
. I can without a doubt say that there can be substantial differences from one metal detector to the next even when they are the same model. My first Elite was a super deep and stable machine, and when I "upgraded" to a GT it was a shocking disappointment 
. That GT would not hit coins at the same depth or run as stable as the Elite and I assumed something was wrong. I went through a couple more second hand GT's and one Elite looking for one that was as good as my original Elite and finally found one. I now have a GT again, and it's very close if not just as deep as the first Elite I had.sovereignelite
New member
Thanks for the info guys. My first Minelab was an XS2a-Pro which I bought new in 2002 I think. I got some experience with it but this was during a period of my life when my free time to hunt was vanishing rapidly due to other responsibilities. I ended up selling it and an Explorer when times were tough a few years ago.Recently I bought a used Elite with a 10" Tornado. I thought about buying a nice used GT but have been unable to find one under $700.(I paid $366 for the Elite which had the 10" Tornado, 550 Meter, new digging tool and Grey Ghost headphones, just needed a shaft) So I think I'll stick with the Elite. I'm not a relic hunter anyway. Also just bought a used XS2 which came with the older 8" BBS coil and an Seasearch 8x9 and 550 meter. OK I'm going to be searching for my fiancee's lost ring in her yard, any tips on settings for the Elite? It was only lost a couple of years ago, so I am assuming it MAY be fairly shallow.
Critterhunter
New member
If it's only recently lost in the last few years, no need to blast sensitivity and that will save you digging deep. I'd run in Auto, or in manual at about 4 or 5PM. That should still reach it's depth while not bugging you with deeper signals. If you know the general size/K value of the ring, that might tell you were to look on the conductivity scale.
Here's a thread that we charted over 100 gold rings on by K value and size, which might give you an idea, although in truth even similar looking rings with same K values can range wildly on the conductivity scale. Probably you are shooting for something in the foil range for a typical women's ring of typical smaller (thin) size, regardless of K value, but just the same it could read up into the nickel or tab range. I'd for sure dig any shallower targets in the 60-70 start of the foil range up to about 143 (this is mostly where nickels start, although some range down to like 136 or so).
Use noise band 2 to match these numbers, although I find often around EMI from houses band 1 will stabilize things sometimes better EMI wise. If you have to use band 1 then the nickels will read higher, like in the 149 range or so, and so might foil read higher, as noise band 1 makes mid conductor targets read a bit off compared to band 2. That's why all the charts compiled used band 2, as the older Sovereigns are stuck in that band and can't switch to 1 like the GT.
This is just to be picky. If you can't find it in the general area then might want to increase the VDI range up more and also crank up sensitivity as high as EMI will allow.
Of course keep discrimination and notch at zero. Iron Mask ON (always do this to get best unmasking ability). Sometimes Auto won't tame the machine down due to EMI as well as running manual real low, like in the 5PM or lower range or so, but you'll still be shocked at the depth very low manual will get. In my tests even all the way down I get like 6" or so on a clad dime. Auto will usually get around 7" on a dime, usually, but that depends on how low it sets it's self due to EMI or ground minerals.
Chart...
[attachment 247929 SovereignGTGoldRingChartJPEG.jpg]
And to read more about it read this thread. It also contains land hunting strategy thread links for rings...
A Condensed "Splitting Hairs On Rings" Summary Of Where They Fall, & It Probably Ain't Where You Think!
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1720979,page=1
This thread is the original, but a monster in content, but it also has visual graphing of the data via bar graphs and such which are more helpful in a visual way, along with further hunting strategy discussions...
Splitting Hairs On Ring VDI Numbers
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1096415,1101102#msg-1101102
Here's a thread that we charted over 100 gold rings on by K value and size, which might give you an idea, although in truth even similar looking rings with same K values can range wildly on the conductivity scale. Probably you are shooting for something in the foil range for a typical women's ring of typical smaller (thin) size, regardless of K value, but just the same it could read up into the nickel or tab range. I'd for sure dig any shallower targets in the 60-70 start of the foil range up to about 143 (this is mostly where nickels start, although some range down to like 136 or so).
Use noise band 2 to match these numbers, although I find often around EMI from houses band 1 will stabilize things sometimes better EMI wise. If you have to use band 1 then the nickels will read higher, like in the 149 range or so, and so might foil read higher, as noise band 1 makes mid conductor targets read a bit off compared to band 2. That's why all the charts compiled used band 2, as the older Sovereigns are stuck in that band and can't switch to 1 like the GT.
This is just to be picky. If you can't find it in the general area then might want to increase the VDI range up more and also crank up sensitivity as high as EMI will allow.
Of course keep discrimination and notch at zero. Iron Mask ON (always do this to get best unmasking ability). Sometimes Auto won't tame the machine down due to EMI as well as running manual real low, like in the 5PM or lower range or so, but you'll still be shocked at the depth very low manual will get. In my tests even all the way down I get like 6" or so on a clad dime. Auto will usually get around 7" on a dime, usually, but that depends on how low it sets it's self due to EMI or ground minerals.
Chart...
[attachment 247929 SovereignGTGoldRingChartJPEG.jpg]
And to read more about it read this thread. It also contains land hunting strategy thread links for rings...
A Condensed "Splitting Hairs On Rings" Summary Of Where They Fall, & It Probably Ain't Where You Think!
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1720979,page=1
This thread is the original, but a monster in content, but it also has visual graphing of the data via bar graphs and such which are more helpful in a visual way, along with further hunting strategy discussions...
Splitting Hairs On Ring VDI Numbers
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1096415,1101102#msg-1101102
sovereignelite
New member
It's a fairly thick platinum band with diamonds. I actually used a toy detector (prolly $60 new) and dug a pile of junk out of the yard but no ring. It was thrown in the yard by her ex, and memory as to which direction it was actually thrown etc is hard to rely on (emotions were high and there was snow on the ground too she said) it's hard to tell where to really look. I am hoping the temp here in Indiana will get above 45 degrees at least once so it will be more comfortable to search. Thinking of using the 13" to cover more ground quickly. Thanks for the tips I will use them...But The Elite doesn't have Iron Mask switch like the GT..unless I am not understanding?
Critterhunter
New member
Oh yea, didn't catch it was an Elite. Stuck in band 2 then, which matches all the charts anyway. The 13" is a bit more prone to EMI then the 12x10. Might want to try a smaller coil if EMI is an issue, but then again you don't need but the lowest manual to hunt for a ring lost that recently. All the way down in manual if Auto won't stabilize it and you should be fine.
If you look in the chart above, we sampled one man's platnum ring of medium to large size and it read 157. If you look in the "Condensed" thread link near the end, another similar sized platnum ring read very near it in numbers if I remember right. I would shoot for perhaps nickel to tab zone (like 140 to 169) perhaps for a large women's platnum ring maybe then.
Of course rings can read wildly. Even gold rings of the same K and size can read off a good bit, due to what they mix with the gold (copper, nickel, silver, etc). I don't know about platnum. Is it mixed with other metals or is it pure? If it's pure, then the numbers should be very close based on size from one to the next.
Either way, might be fun to bet on VDI #s as a game here? What do you mean by "thick"? Meaning as wide as a pencil's width? Not thickness, but width. If that's the case (that wide or wider), then I'll guess minimum of a 140 VDI # but more than likely in the low 150's. I'll bet 151 as the VDI #. Anybody else have a guess?
You WILL find that ring. Just a question of when, since nobody has hunted that yard, unless the guy came back and found it in the snow, which I doubt. Good luck and keep us informed!
If you look in the chart above, we sampled one man's platnum ring of medium to large size and it read 157. If you look in the "Condensed" thread link near the end, another similar sized platnum ring read very near it in numbers if I remember right. I would shoot for perhaps nickel to tab zone (like 140 to 169) perhaps for a large women's platnum ring maybe then.
Of course rings can read wildly. Even gold rings of the same K and size can read off a good bit, due to what they mix with the gold (copper, nickel, silver, etc). I don't know about platnum. Is it mixed with other metals or is it pure? If it's pure, then the numbers should be very close based on size from one to the next.
Either way, might be fun to bet on VDI #s as a game here? What do you mean by "thick"? Meaning as wide as a pencil's width? Not thickness, but width. If that's the case (that wide or wider), then I'll guess minimum of a 140 VDI # but more than likely in the low 150's. I'll bet 151 as the VDI #. Anybody else have a guess?
You WILL find that ring. Just a question of when, since nobody has hunted that yard, unless the guy came back and found it in the snow, which I doubt. Good luck and keep us informed!
I have used both the GT and Elite.The Elite for me has worked great and have found a lot of good finds with this Sovereign.I agree with Rick the GT is probably a little more sensitive and has more options.At this point I'm happy with the Elite,but the GT is a better mouse trap.HH Ron
I have used both also. I use my Sovereigns mainly for wet sand hunting. I find them both to be top notch performers. With the Elite I was always turning the wrong knob because it is unique in the placement of them. As mentioned the paint job on the Elite is terrible. It is hard to find one that looks well kept. I currently find myself with no Sovereign in the arsenal. But I do have one on the way. A beautiful GT. I need to hang on to this one because of the model being discontinued.
I have never compared targets between an Elite and a GT, but I do believe that I would find very close results between the two. In fact I once owned an XS-2A pro. A wonderful detector also. I would welcome any Sovereign model into my house. The older models have to be modded with fittings to fit modern rechargeables. And there are some older models that have battery door problems. But if you know what to look for the older Sovereigns are a great buy.
I have never compared targets between an Elite and a GT, but I do believe that I would find very close results between the two. In fact I once owned an XS-2A pro. A wonderful detector also. I would welcome any Sovereign model into my house. The older models have to be modded with fittings to fit modern rechargeables. And there are some older models that have battery door problems. But if you know what to look for the older Sovereigns are a great buy.
sovereignelite
New member
Critterhunter said:Oh yea, didn't catch it was an Elite. Stuck in band 2 then, which matches all the charts anyway. The 13" is a bit more prone to EMI then the 12x10. Might want to try a smaller coil if EMI is an issue, but then again you don't need but the lowest manual to hunt for a ring lost that recently. All the way down in manual if Auto won't stabilize it and you should be fine.
If you look in the chart above, we sampled one man's platnum ring of medium to large size and it read 157. If you look in the "Condensed" thread link near the end, another similar sized platnum ring read very near it in numbers if I remember right. I would shoot for perhaps nickel to tab zone (like 140 to 169) perhaps for a large women's platnum ring maybe then.
Of course rings can read wildly. Even gold rings of the same K and size can read off a good bit, due to what they mix with the gold (copper, nickel, silver, etc). I don't know about platnum. Is it mixed with other metals or is it pure? If it's pure, then the numbers should be very close based on size from one to the next.
Either way, might be fun to bet on VDI #s as a game here? What do you mean by "thick"? Meaning as wide as a pencil's width? Not thickness, but width. If that's the case (that wide or wider), then I'll guess minimum of a 140 VDI # but more than likely in the low 150's. I'll bet 151 as the VDI #. Anybody else have a guess?
You WILL find that ring. Just a question of when, since nobody has hunted that yard, unless the guy came back and found it in the snow, which I doubt. Good luck and keep us informed!
Thanks for all the help.I've been sleeping, I work nights gotta go in here soon....
Actually she and some some inexperienced people(on different occasions) have searched the yard (a few of whom I would'nt trust with a corroded zinc penny) so if I don't find it,it's probably not there anymore. As for thickness it was wide enough that it held a one karat diamond. She say's as wide as a pencil.
Critterhunter
New member
Yep, you're right. I didn't think the Elite had the noise channel selector like the GT, but it does. I think all prior Sovereign models though were stuck in band 2 without ability to switch bands. Switching bands doesn't change the frequencies being outputted, but it does shift slightly which ones it's paying attention to on the receiving end, which appears to cause mid conductors to read a bit higher in band 1 versus band 2.
The FBS guys see this same thing happen if their automatic noise cancel picks certain channels to watch instead of others on other noise band channels. That is one powerful feature of the FBS units, to be able to pick which channels it listens to. Usually I can hunt right under power lines via switching bands with no issues, but sometimes I have to lower sensitivity a good bit to still get it stable, yet my Etrac friends will hit noise cancel and be done with it. Sometimes this will allow them to run at higher sensitivity levels near EMI, but I've also seen the auto + 3 sensitivity drop down a good bit regardless of the noise cancel due to how bad the EMI is, just like I have to on my GT sometimes.
Their noise cancel ability is far better though, but you have to be careful with learn accept/reject patterns sometimes, because it'll shift target IDs a bit on certain channels and render it useless. For that reason one of my friends doesn't shift channels ever. He uses an open screen with only a tiny bit of iron rejection so learn reject/accept doesn't matter in his case, but he still doesn't like to noise cancel so the VDI #s for things like nickels don't shift around a bit on him from what he's memorized in his head.
The FBS guys see this same thing happen if their automatic noise cancel picks certain channels to watch instead of others on other noise band channels. That is one powerful feature of the FBS units, to be able to pick which channels it listens to. Usually I can hunt right under power lines via switching bands with no issues, but sometimes I have to lower sensitivity a good bit to still get it stable, yet my Etrac friends will hit noise cancel and be done with it. Sometimes this will allow them to run at higher sensitivity levels near EMI, but I've also seen the auto + 3 sensitivity drop down a good bit regardless of the noise cancel due to how bad the EMI is, just like I have to on my GT sometimes.
Their noise cancel ability is far better though, but you have to be careful with learn accept/reject patterns sometimes, because it'll shift target IDs a bit on certain channels and render it useless. For that reason one of my friends doesn't shift channels ever. He uses an open screen with only a tiny bit of iron rejection so learn reject/accept doesn't matter in his case, but he still doesn't like to noise cancel so the VDI #s for things like nickels don't shift around a bit on him from what he's memorized in his head.
sovereignelite
New member
Was going to look for the ring today, but of course, on my day off, it rains the entire time. Probably woulda been a good day for an Excalibur