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explorer 2 control housing removal
- Thread starter u2robert
- Start date
u2robert
Well-known member
forgetaboutit,found a youtube video someone took an e trac apart. ain't going there. the grip is installed from the top of the handle u just have to soap it up and slide it down the handle real careful like, after u remove the stand and arm cuff, go figure. ain't youtube the sh!ts
Remove the Arm cup piece and get the Grip started from the battery cover end area. Now roll it upward over itself to the grip area.
It you try to stretch it then it will rip and rolling it up is pretty much the only way to put on a OE grip without removing the control housing.
No need to remove the control housing as if you cannot get it successfully up there rolling it over itself then get a grip wrap from a sporting goods/horse tack shop as this will work just as well.
BTW, if you type in "grip" under search and put it to the "Explorer Classroom" then "all dates" you should find many other prior posted answer's
Seven plus years ago and prior the regular forum was hardly used except for finds. All the information you could ever want/need can be found by searching this particular forum area.
It you try to stretch it then it will rip and rolling it up is pretty much the only way to put on a OE grip without removing the control housing.
No need to remove the control housing as if you cannot get it successfully up there rolling it over itself then get a grip wrap from a sporting goods/horse tack shop as this will work just as well.
BTW, if you type in "grip" under search and put it to the "Explorer Classroom" then "all dates" you should find many other prior posted answer's
Seven plus years ago and prior the regular forum was hardly used except for finds. All the information you could ever want/need can be found by searching this particular forum area.
u2robert
Well-known member
Thanks Mike0, I also seen that the control box in sum cases have been super glued on don't know how true that is? i have been a cz user for years and this explorer 2 is a whole new animal. it's kinda like the fisher coinstrike being digital an all, wasn't to hard to figure out. and reading everything i can find on this forum helped alot. going out for the first time this weekend. (except for using it in my test garden) will try Bryce's setting's and go from there.
I highly suggest trying "Ferrous" instead of "Conductive" ESPECIALLY if you are at an old home-site or farm field etc.
The reason being is in "Conductive" Iron will have the same high pitch tone as Silver. If you switch to Ferrous then only Crown Caps will sound like Silvers/Large Coppers and there is allot more Iron at old home-sites generally then Crown Caps.
Think of Conductive as the highest part of the screen from top left to top right having the highest pitch and Ferrous having the highest tones coming from the far right from top to bottom.
Here is a picture I did.
[attachment 260464 Ferrouspic1.jpg]
Secondly the settings you mention you are going to use I believe are for the SE???
The EX-II has a factory setting of 5 for the Gain and I highly suggest not running 7 or higher. I personally run my Exp. II in 6.
Gain is an amplifier which will cause the deepest targets to be amplified in sound volume. This will make it harder to discern the deeper older coins from many of the less deeper coins.
Here is a link to some great settings all of which I use for the most part (I hunt in Ferrous tones for the reasons I mentioned earlier).
Exp II settings from Mike M.
Here is something else you should really look at. It will be beneficial for you.
This was something done by Mike also, that really helped many early on. He is really the master of the Explorer line IMHO and was a huge help to many of the early guys (including me) that got their teeth cut on the XS line back in 1999-2000.
Great site describing Exp II cursor flutter movements
Hope this helps you a little more and best of luck to you.
The reason being is in "Conductive" Iron will have the same high pitch tone as Silver. If you switch to Ferrous then only Crown Caps will sound like Silvers/Large Coppers and there is allot more Iron at old home-sites generally then Crown Caps.
Think of Conductive as the highest part of the screen from top left to top right having the highest pitch and Ferrous having the highest tones coming from the far right from top to bottom.
Here is a picture I did.
[attachment 260464 Ferrouspic1.jpg]
Secondly the settings you mention you are going to use I believe are for the SE???
The EX-II has a factory setting of 5 for the Gain and I highly suggest not running 7 or higher. I personally run my Exp. II in 6.
Gain is an amplifier which will cause the deepest targets to be amplified in sound volume. This will make it harder to discern the deeper older coins from many of the less deeper coins.
Here is a link to some great settings all of which I use for the most part (I hunt in Ferrous tones for the reasons I mentioned earlier).
Exp II settings from Mike M.
Here is something else you should really look at. It will be beneficial for you.
This was something done by Mike also, that really helped many early on. He is really the master of the Explorer line IMHO and was a huge help to many of the early guys (including me) that got their teeth cut on the XS line back in 1999-2000.
Great site describing Exp II cursor flutter movements
Hope this helps you a little more and best of luck to you.
Doctorcoinz
New member
I have heard it's easier to do it removing the control box than sliding the new grip from the arm cup area...I never done one so i don't know the procedure. My own opinion on buying explorers or e-tracs
with torn or tatty grips is don't buy the detector , it will have had some serious heavy use for sure. I like grips to look loke new it gives a good idea just how much use a detector has had.
with torn or tatty grips is don't buy the detector , it will have had some serious heavy use for sure. I like grips to look loke new it gives a good idea just how much use a detector has had.
u2robert
Well-known member
The grip was not worn, It was opening up were it glued at the seam on the bottom,I got some spray adhesive and a q-tip and re-glued it,just like new now.and by the way except for that the detector is in mint condition,not a scratch on it (the coil cover ain't scratched) also got the box, carry bag,5" excelerator coil with rod,battery charger, training tape (can't find a VCR) and dust cover old cheap 1 from china so i went to kellyco (5 miles from home)replaced it with a nice minelab 1,while i was there i got a new grip, but seen the pain in the a$$ it was to install i just glued the existing 1 back. also was looking for an arm strap but u have to buy the whole arm rest unit just for the strap (30.00) NOT.i believe this detector was a closet queen, not no mo i will work it,that's for sure.
samclemmons
New member
Probably still wouldn't hurt to put a tennis wrap on it since it helps protect it..