Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

explorer II help

A

Anonymous

Guest
I purchased a new explorerII last week and per all post I have read it says to leave it in factory presets for a while. I went to galveston beach for a couple hour and it was very impressive! I have detected on the beach with whites and fisher and have never consistantly dug so much that deep. But upon returning to east texas i am having trouble finding any old coins, I have dug lots and lots of trash and some moderen, clad,all have been fairly deep. I know that there are good coins in the area i am hunting from previous trips but I seem to be having problems with iron. my question is, on the selction menu it has coins, jewlery, pulltabs ect. listed. I understand you can check mark what you are looking for or x out what you dont want to detect but what happens when you leave some of the things blank. I would like to reduce some of the false singnal i am digging. I am getting high tones on to much iron and am not able to tell the difference between the two.
 
James, I'm not sure what type of iron you're dealing with, or if it varies for sound, but here is how I deal with my sites infested with small iron (which is a lot of them)
First off I have my gain at 10 which most people feel works against you but I like it. I think the signal being boosted is what helps me hear the blended portion of a good signal with iron. (Usually that's in quite heavy iron) For just one high falsing target most of the time I can tell by the tone how much of a chance it has to be a good target. Once I hit it from a different direction I pretty much know. The key is to hear the null that's within the target when you X it, and to pay close attention to how the false has changed. This is almost imposibble to try to explain in writing and is something that usually only comes with hours of experience.
If you're running your iron mask too open try closing it enough so you regocnize the null in the iron. I took quite a while to work up to my current settings, but didn't have to deal with much frustration along the way.
Many people do use ferrous sounds but I am not one of them. I have used the Explorer that way for a few months and it reacts basically the same it's just a different way of having to listen to it.
Above all forget about your meter and go 100% by sound. You gotta learn to walk before you can run so throw away the ID crutch. <img src="/metal/html/lol.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":lol"> <img src="/metal/html/lol.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":lol"> <img src="/metal/html/lol.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":lol"> (if you use it) <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":)">
 
maybe the first couple times out, but to learn the explorer well your better off listening to everything except iron... I would try and find a sight that is not too littered with trash but has enough of it to hear it often. Open up your iron mask to -10 or less and just start working targets. Listen to the audio, watch where they fall on the smart screen and where they read in digital. dig a few in each are of the screen, and see what type target your digging...
remember the tone and the quality of the signal(the most important thing as good targets generally sound better than bad no matter where they read on the meter) After a while your ear will get in tune with whats good and whats not simply by that tone.. I find it easier to discern iron in ferrous, but ferrous will also make low conductive targets read higher, so its a matter of preference and where your hunting... I do run conductive in places with high concentrations of low conductive trash like pull tab tails and foil.. But either mode good tagets will give you good quality tones on good targets...
Good targets near trash may not, but after a while you can also tell there may be two targets close together..That comes with experience.
so at the begining just dig the ones that sound good.. if your at a site that allows you to dig everything all the better... However in an area that has lots of junk, the time spent analyzing the target more than makes up for all the time you would spend digging everything... again dig a few that read in different areas to see what type target reads where, dig all that give a good sold non warbling signal no matter where they read.. The only exception I would say is you can ignore any target that reads solid bottom right of smart screen... those are almost always crown type bottle caps. and iron will almost always read top left, iron has a lot more bouncing though nad could read just about anywhere on the screen with each pass of the coil. Nails and iron seldom read from all angles of attack...
Circle targets as you sweep them the good targets will almost always read from everyangle and the tone will not vary much at all no matter what angle you hit them from as long as its a nice steady sweep speed.
there are exceptions to everything but if you stick to the above you can get some nice finds in trash without having to dig much of it.. After you get the tones down you just keep expanding on what you dig and what you dont. Old areas of course with little trash always dig it all, if you keep at a site eventually digging all positive signals you will be suprised how many good targets are left.
One other thing unless your looking for clad try and concentrate on just the deeper targets.. the depth meter may not always be right, but if most old targets are 4 inches or better, ignore the loud pegged at the top of the depth meter hits and spend more time looking for ones that read a bit deeper on the meter. If you want clad then at first just dig the ones that are dime and quarter readings.. and you wont spend much time on pennies
 
Which is get to know your machine.
I think that most of us know by now what the individual Ex2 features do on their own but in our discussions/arguments/wars we've probably not emphasised enough how the various settings interact with each other. A slight change and I can widen the signal, change the tones and other similar tricks but unless you have tried it before you can never be 100% sure how the overall performance of the machine might be affected.
As an example I have never been able to raise the gain above about 7 let alone get up to 10 like Chris but I put this down to how this setting reacts with the other settings in my programme, the environment in which I detect and my personnal preferences.
Good hunting
Fred
ps Remember to put your basic programme into the programme memory so that you do not have to start again from scratch if you do manage to mess up when experimenting.
 
Top