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First Merc

MassSandman

New member
I had the oppportunity today to MD around a late 19th cty house in Lowell, MA. Good news is I got my first "Mercury" dime; real thin 1917 in maybe "good" condition and a 1957-D wheatie and a ton of junk including toothed gears. Among the ton of junk were nails by the dozens. Now, the nails came up as silver. Why? And, more importantly, how do I recognize that next time I head back there. (Never found too many nails at the beach!) There have to be more Mercs (or better!!) in that ground and I wasted a bunch of time digging those nails out. Any suggestions from the League of Extraordinary Gentlemen (and women, too, I guess)?? Thanks in advance. HH
 
The only thing I can say is, I did dig a few real deep nails when I first started out with the Explorer, I guess I just didn't wanna pass up any real deep coin's. But now I hardly ever do, Unless there is one sticking outside the hole when I dig a coin. Maybe someone else can help you out with this. just listen to the sounds first, Then look at the screen for more information is about all I can tell you. Sorry.
Good Luck.
 
Nails sound a lot like silver when using the CONDUCTIVE mode, but they almost always hit in the upper left corner of the screen.

HH,
Glenn
 
Its tough at times, but with practice you'll get it.

1) rusted iron has a very high screechy sound that feels like it could give you a head ache, same with rusty crown caps. silver is More like a bell or a flute: Its softer and almost seductive. wheat backs can have the same sound, but its usually bolder and less specific about where it lands on the screen.

2) Iron sounding like silver likes to land on the lower to middle height on the right borderline of the smart screen, silver lands near but not usually on the upper part of the right, and the right part of the upper border lines.

3) Iron in IM -16 produces a screechy high tone, a low tone then the screech again as you pass over it. silver produces at least three tones all different and closer in range unless its extremely deep.

4)in IM-15 or higher, iron makes a popping screech almost like its choking or something. silver is the same as in IM-16.

5) usually, iron will begin to change, weaken, or go away as you make repeated sweeps over it in the same spot and direction, silver will stay the same or improve slightly. Wheat backs and indians can start out sounding like $#!+ and improve dramatically with repeated sweeps.

6)Silver and coppers are generally easy to locate and pinpoint,with iron you can get the general area, but it feels like a crap shoot where to dig.

7) when you get a signal located, rotate yourself about 30 degrees around it and sweep again. Iron changes dramatically, or goes away all together. If it comes back at 180 degrees it is almost always a rusty bolt. Lots of times when you get back to your original position its hard to get the signal again if its iron .

*Caution!- This is how many targets on edge or with iron mixed in get passed up, and from my experience, those have been the good ones! you must dig a few of these really bad signals and come home with not a lot, but a few iron nails, rusty caps... If you don't, you might as well be that old dude with the whites who just got done telling you "there's nothing left here!"

8 )when you cut your plug, check the hole with the detector to be sure your target is still in the hole. usually a good target will get better.

9) using your sun-ray probe that you hopeful have purchased or soon will be (hint hint) probe the hole. Iron will give that low tone with the screeches, or just be a null. and it will usually be off to one side. Silver/copper will give you a good sound, a broken up or weak sound or not break the threash hold at all if its still too deep or too far off to one side.

10) extremely deep targets (8+ inches deep) don't ID well at all and could come up as anything. the audio is generally wrong as well, dig a few if not all of these regardless. Tokens, toys, gold, odd but cool stuff that you probably would want will show up in an unusual location on the smart screen. When in doubt, dig it out. I have 3 known types of locations on the smart screen and with the audio response:
A) I'm 90% sure its something I want (coin)
B) I'm 90% sure its something I don't want (crown cap)
c) It could be a this or a that, but I don't really know, and this is probably my only chance to find out!

Don't bed afraid to dig some holes, but do be afraid to leave the place looking like the surface of the moon. Dig some targets, give it a month to heal back up while you hit other sites, then come back and dig some more.
And most of all enjoy yourself! sometimes you'll find a nice pile of coins, other times all you come home with is an improvement on your farmers tan, the key is to come home smiling either way!
 
When digging deeper targets it is quite common for the signal to vanish altogether once you dig a plug. Solid signal at 8 inches, dig a 6 inch plug, poof no signal with the big coil. Go in with the X1 probe and bingo its there.

I did a write up on the X1 probe for Ralph a couple years back. I had a solid IH signal, dug a plug and recovered a 1887 IH. Checked the hole with the X1 probe and thought I heard another target 2-3 inches deeper. It was pretty iffy with the X1, barely within its reach so I swept the hole with the stock 10 and nada, no hint of a signal. I was about to close up the hole but went back in with the X1 again, there was absolutely something deeper but sounded mostly like iron. I dug another 4 inch plug and out popped another 1887 IH with a 1886 seated dime stuck to it. Now if the big 10 inch coil will miss that with 6 inches of air space between the coil and the target I'm not sure I would rely on tip #8. Just my two cents worth.
 
I'll second that... I've had deep coins vanish once I opened the hole. I use a UniProbe and it's a time saver like the X1.

-Bill
 
Thanks folks for your comments and encouragement. There is a learning curve with the XS like all others I'm sure. Getting the finer points and "tweaking" from you more experienced guys is an major help and shows what a solid, tight knit community THs are. Thanks again. ( For the record, this beat up little Merc is my 3rd silver find. In February, got a 1962 quarter out of years of shellfish gunk and a 1935 Peace Dollar out of low tide exposed sand in Salem. Now THAT made a nice sound.) once I get a camera, I'll make sure I post pix. Thanks again!!!
 
Thanks for the seminar, Todd. I do have the SunRay X-1. I can't see how anyone can seriously treasure hunt without a probe. Much thanks.
 
I'm glad I can help, hope I didn't give you information overload. That Iron is ruff, and if I can help anyone beat it Great! When I first got my explorer I ended up with blisters on my hands from digging so much iron, then general Ray came to my rescue and taught me some of that stuff I posted.
And congratulations on that merc! Beautiful coins, brilliant design work. Tonight I dug one of those bad signals; the type I mentioned you need to dig a few of. I actually dug several of those and twice they were wads of tin foil and once a rusty bolt. The last of them was a signal that stayed lower to middle on that right border line on the smart screen, and sounded real screechy but somehow it reminded me of a quarter. I circled it at least twice, but it never even slightly weakened, which surprised me. I decided to dig it out even though it was deep and this place is loaded with clinkers and coal cinders. Well at about 10 inches deep out pops my first barber half! 1904 plain! I tell ya, those silver halves look like manhole covers when your used to seeing dimes!

Try some of those techniques the next time you hunt, and let us know how you do!

HH Todd
 
as for nails - I go by tones in most cases. Sometimes you get fooled but eventually you'll know a nail from a coin. guys below covered much of what you can use to avoid digging every nail. Good luck!
 
Especially when it's been in the ground for as long as yours. Hopefully it will be a first of many! Good hunting, David @ Dixie
 
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