For Bill and Eric : Aquastar connector shorted?

[Anonymous]

I've noticed at times that if I touch the metal support collar and spring at the coil connector that plugs into the Aquastar that I will get a fairly loud false signal. This is not something that happens all the time and I've yet to investigate it much as I generally forget about it when I get home.
I have tested the shield (which I suppose this cable support is connected to) to both pins as well as the alignment pin and I do not get continuity. Sometimes I notice that if I gently move the cable near the Ikalite casing I will also get a false.
In addition I have installed new washers and made sure the connector is tight. There is always water just around the gasket but I assume that the pins are isolated due to small dimples or pimples on the washer depending on how you look at it.
On thing I don't recall is if this only happens if I am standing in the water or really damp sand.
Any ideas?

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Don,
The metal collar and spring are not connected to anything, so you are right in not getting continuity to any of the pins.
Water will get into the connector but, as you say, stops at the pimples around the pins. This is normal.
Not sure what is giving the false signals, but it maybe the cable braid is frayed in that area. With hard usage over a period of time, this can happen at the bend as it goes into the support spring. A frayed braid will give loud signals when the cable is moved in the area of the connector. The cure is to shorten the cable two or three inches and reconnect the Ikelite plug. If you are not happy in doing it, Mr Bill could perhaps check it out.
Note that if it is a cable problem, it will happen anywhere.
Eric.

 

[Anonymous]

Any advice in reterminating the plug? I'm not shy about doing it myself and also don't mind asking for any hints or instructions. Thanks again for your great support.
Don

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Don,
The Ikelite connectors are easy to dismantle. Just move the outer black sleeve down the cable and out of the way. Remove the rubber gasket from the pins. Place a metal ruler or other straight metal object between the base of the pins to act as a lever while undoing the metal nut where the cable comes out. Slide the nut and spring up the cable, out of the way. Under the nut is a rubber seal that has a taper on in that faces the plug body. Slide this back up the cable a few inches, taking care not to damage it. There are two screws recessed in the plug body. One is longer than the other and acts as locating pin to get the plug orientation correct in the socket. Remove these screws, keeping an eye on not losing the nuts. They usually stay put. I usually make a small mark on the body where the long screw goes. Slide the top half of the body back up the cable, noting that there is an O ring in between. You now have access to the cable connections to the pins. A small Allen key (hexagonal) is required to release the wire from the pins. Note the pins that the cable core and cable braid are connected to and their relation to the long screw. Make sure that you get this the right way round when re-assembling. Check that the O ring between the body halves is clean and seated in its groove, and that the cable seal is snugly fitted. A thin</span> smear of silicone grease helps here. Do every thing in reverse on re-assembly and be careful not to get the cable nut cross threaded on the plastic body. Finally, replace the rubber gasket on the pins.
Note, sometimes with use, the pins close up a bit. Check that this is not the cause of your problem by widening the split in the pins out a wee bit with the tapered end of a screwdriver. Just enough so that they are tight in the sockets.
Eric.

 

[Anonymous]

Eric,
Sorry for taking up your valuable time to answer a simple question. Actually, I didn't see your post until just now and had already re-terminated the plug assembly.
What I found was that the shield was fully cut during original assembly and was only making partial contact. I had actually talked about this to Bill way back when I first bought the unit and of course he said he would be glad to take a look at it. Nevertheless I kept using it and it finally dawned on me to ask the question as posted above.
The most difficult part of the re-termination was finding a 1/16" allen wrench to fit the set screws. One thing I did notice is that if you tighen the split pin and nut too tight (prior to locking the power and shield wire with the set-screws)the set-screw will rub on the base of the pin assy.
BTW, is there someplace that I can buy the plug gaskets in say quantities of 10 or so?
I can't wait to take the unit out tomorrow and see the improvements. I've had great luck finding small gold when others aren't, and I never have minded detecting behind others unless of course they throw the trash back into the hole <img src="/metal/html/lol.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":lol">
Thanks again for the fine support and great machine.
Don