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Frustrated!!! :rage:

S

stilpony

New member
Ok, I'm sure that I'm not the first to come across this little problem, but how do you get that dang coil unscrewed from the control box?!?!?! I only hand tighten it, but when trying to change coils, when I try to unscrew it, you would think I had tightened it on there using impact wrenches!!!! I've tried using one of those rubber jar lid things and sliding it up behind it so that I would get a good grip, and STILL nothing! I even tried an adjustable pliers, but didn't want to crank on it too much for fear I would slip and crack the housing.

Does ANYBODY have any tip/tricks for dealing with this?

Thanks in advance for your help!!!!!

Pony
 
Well, I don't think many people actually tighten that screw! what we do is "Snug" it just enough so that the coil doesn't flop or dangle and NO MORE. We want to be able to move the coil freely, but hold its position as we swing it.

I've never had that screw ever get even close to not being able to get it lose with my fingers, but at this point you will need to use whatever force needed to get it lose! If you break it you can go to Lowes and get a Nylon replacement bolt and washer to get you by, but if your going to keep tightening it that tight I would suggest ordering some extra coil mounting bolts and taps from the company so you'll have plenty of them down the road.

Mark
 
Yeah, it can be a pain. The F5 originally had a push in plug. Then the Omega, and the rest of the greeks came out with threaded plug connectors. Next thing you know there was a big push to change the F5 to the threaded connectors so the coils could interchange. I had both a push in and a threaded F5. I liked the ease of the push in, but I also liked the ability to share coils between the F5 and Greeks, which now includes Goldbugs/G2s. In the end, the pain of the threaded connection is made up for by the coil swapability between all the different units.

Of course, all that knowledge doesn't help you disconnect your connector. To get off a tight threaded connection, you are going to need to slightly wiggle the plug in various directions while trying to unthread it. (lefty loosy). Most of the time they get sticky cause a little torque is being applied in one direction or another that makes them stick more than normal. Hopefully it's not crossthreaded :devil:

Just keep working at it and you'll get it off.
HH
Mike
 
Thanks guys, I'll try the needlenose AND the wiggling. Not sure what I did, must have had too much coffee that morning when I put it on! :blink:

HH!!

Pony
 
some metals seem to want to adhere or seize to each other, if you get it loose okay, you might try a little anti-seize on the threads before putting it back on. might help?
 
Hey Pony, I'm curious as to what coil you are going to put on? I had to go check my 70 to see if it was tight and it was actually quit loose----HH
 
Never sieze. A tiny bit! Needle nose. But don't squeeze. And remember never sieze is toxic. Will stain you're fingers. That the key wash till you don't see silver. Hope this helped. HH. Tom. Ps never sieze on threaded connector. Try not to let it get on contacts. Don't know it will hurt but I wouldn't chance it I know people use it on spark plugs so the boot comes off easier but????????
 
you didn't say which Fisher you have, I know the one complaint I had with my F2 was the way they designed the connector at the control box, you cant get your fingers on the connector to unscrew it. I'm guessing they recessed it like that to keep it from getting broken if it get banged against something
 
MarkCZ said:
Well, I don't think many people actually tighten that screw! what we do is "Snug" it just enough so that the coil doesn't flop or dangle and NO MORE. We want to be able to move the coil freely, but hold its position as we swing it.

I've never had that screw ever get even close to not being able to get it lose with my fingers, but at this point you will need to use whatever force needed to get it lose! If you break it you can go to Lowes and get a Nylon replacement bolt and washer to get you by, but if your going to keep tightening it that tight I would suggest ordering some extra coil mounting bolts and taps from the company so you'll have plenty of them down the road.

Mark
Click to expand...
Boy! I read the title post wrong, my little pea brain jumped to the plastic mounting screw and bolt for the coil to rod mount.
Sorry about that.

The cable connector to control box I had on an F2 was a problem as well. I learned to not tighten it beyond snug, I did a few times resort to a pair of hemostats to get it lose.

Mark
 
i had the same problem with my f70 i used a pair of pliers, if its still under warrenty call fisher and see what they say good luck
 
Pictured is what I've been using on my F5 to manipulate the connector in question with very good success. There just the right size to securely grip the knurled surface of the connecter and still have room to turn it. There marked Wizard HR 1130.

A google search of Wizard HR 1130 happened to turn up a nice clean used pair on E-Pay. There listed as vintage so they may no longer be in production.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Wizard-Mini-3-Position-Ignition-Pliers-H-1130-/161083417086

I see there refered to as -Mini 3 Position Ignition Pliers- . I didn't google that phrase. Hint, hint.:huh:

PS: Found a close match. Bottom of the page at this site: http://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/131725/416 Notice the jaws are thinly built, as needed for room to fit around the knurled fitting and be able to rotate.

HH
 
Thank you ALL for the great suggestions! I was FINALLY able to get it off with an offset needle nose pliers. (that are in my bag for metal detecting now) I'm going to stop in at Sears and check out a pair of those ignition pliers, those look perfect!!!! Thanks again for all the great posts!!!!

HH

Pony
 
Pony.

Which detector BTW?

I found that with the f2, if I point the coil straight up in the air when affixing the connector and pointing the coil straight down when unscrewing it, I've not had a problem since and it goes on and off much easier.

Something about the spacing of the treads has made it lock down on me before if the threads didn't match up right a couple times. Just an FYI as I know your prob was more about over tightening near the base.

Haven't had this problem with the f70 yet as I eventually learned with the f2 to just go finger tight plus the connector isn't recessed on the f70 either which is a big help.
 
Hi Trailduster,

I have the F2 and F5, but it was the F5 that I was dealing with. It never gets tightened more then finger tight, but the thing is just hard to get hold of when unscrewing it. That little ignition wrench really did the trick, and is now in my MD'ing bag with my bug spray, sun screen, mosquito netting and flame thrower (for when the skeeters forget what DEET is) :rofl: Once I get it started, it comes right off, it's just that intitial twist that is a bugger.

Thanks for the hints, though!

Pony
 
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