Find's Treasure Forums
Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
Click here to register!
Need Support Help?
Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you
GTP1350, any advice?
- Thread starter backlashd
- Start date
Coils? Get a smaller elliptical, one of the Crossfire II's. Thats the nice thing about the 1350 - it can use any of the numerous Garret coils, EXCEPT those for the GTI series.
Don't get the larger coils unless you need depth in clear fields, open grassy areas or deep woods you hunt regularly. Otherwise, they "see" to much ground and too many targets beneath the coil. And don't get the dinkiest coils unless you hunt in extremely trashy sites.
As for tips, here are a few (remember, you asked for it
) :
Read the booklet that comes with the detector - A LOT. I've read and re-read it. For instance, I never really caught on to the distinct sound that is heard when you engage the Profiling feature...that is until I found mention of it in the booklet.
I believe this is a problem that Garret could rectify - the information is sketchy, for a detector that really has so much going on. For a newbie, their direction is to guide you to learn through using the detector. But there is much they could offer in the way of "tips" that would help.
From the Archives:
"(EDITED) From Andreas Meyer, NM
1. Tape the coil cable straight up the lower rod.
2. Set the threshold to the point where you can barely hear it.
3. After number 2, run sensitivity at 5-7.
If the detector is not stable back down a notch, or until it becomes so.
4. Run it in jewelry mode for max depth.
If you run it in coin mode, you loose some depth.
5. Get the 4.5 inch coil for it. That coil will give you great target separation and ID around old houses and in trash. It will also allow you to run high gain (SENS). But it is exasperating to use, like all small coils.
6. Make sure you always have a spare battery holder.That is the only weakness of the Garrett.
{{ When mine developed a crack, I called (or emailed) Garrett and they sent two more, for free. - David}}
7.If the ID jumps from iron to coin and vice versa...it's junk.
If it jumps around within the coin range, it's a deep coin most of the time.
The Garrett GTP 1350 is the same model like the GTAx 1250 but the 1350 has profiling (sizing)... you can tell by the length of the tone what size the target is.
{{ This is something you can learn by turning off all tone ID and Profiling, Then the detector will signal "long" over shallow or large targets and it will signal "short" over smaller/deeper targets. Do this for several hours and it becomes second nature. Again, it's mentioned in the booklet, but isn't really developed as a user tool - David }}.
In trash you can't rely on Profiling alone, because the coil sees too many targets at once and the reading is off.
The GTP 1350 can Profile-size with ALL Garrett coils, unlike the GTIs.
Is the Garrett deep ??? Yes if you follow my tips.
It is as deep as every other top of the line detector out there. I compared it to the Whites MXT and can say the Garrett hits better on silver and copper, but the MXT is a little hotter on nickels.The Garrett runs quieter.
The Garrett is well balanced and fun to use. You don't have to read the manual every time you use it, because it's that easy.
{{ But read it - David}}
There are no outside controls you could accidentally bump or turn.
Target ID is right on if you use the right coil for the area you hunt in. Nickel can come in a little higher some time, so accept one more notch up.
I liked the 1250 better, because I don't fancy the profiling. Performance is the same.
HH,
Andy
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And another group of "user tips", from yours truly:
Posted By: Dahut
Date: Wednesday, 14 December 2005, at 9:29 a.m.
In Response To: Hoping to pickup my GTA 1350 tomorrow. (Farnum)
A great machine, one you can and should practice a lot with. The Garretts are overlooked a lot by people as being toylike, goofy and ineffective - I know, I used to say those things myself. But, that was my undoing; the more I use mine (1350), the more capable I find it to be.
- NUMERO UNO. It's very sensitive and running your SENS too high will kill you...especially in trashy sites. Always start low (4-5) and work your way up till the falsing begins, then back down a notch or two.
As Bill Revis says, "The 1350 is sensitivity driven." He also says, "...the SENS control is NOT a depth control."
He's right...it is a gain control for the receive circuits. Cranking it up has a combined effect: increasing the gain AND sending the circuits into instability, especially in the presence of trash/minerlization/multiple targets.
- Strap the cable to the lower rod so it doesn't flop around, as it'll pick up the wires in the cable if your SENS is set high. But don't tie it down rock solid - give it a little strain relief, or wiggle rom. I use Velcro straps.
- In clean sites, you can crank er 'up a bit. 8-10 isn't too high in low trash, mildly mineralized soils. The depth is there.
- Deep/small targets result in SHORT DURATION beeps. NOT "softer" sounding... shorter. The Garrett does not employ amplitude modulation. This means the signal volume is the same regardless of depth, but the duration changes.
This one fact gave me fits the first time I had one of these (1250).
- Don't be afraid to swing it a little faster than recommended. It gets a bit deeper when you do and still picks up the good signals, especially where they are shallow.
But remember, and this is a point Bill Revis makes time and again, steady and thorough will always win over fast - slow down once you've found a "hot spot" and then work to isolate the signals.
- Test the trash separation at home on the floor, in your yard, etc., so you have an idea of how things work in the real world. This factor will make or break you. When I place a dime at 2-3" from a nail, I get a clean "dime" signal with the stock coil. That's good separation. You should learn what yours does, too.
- Work to pinpoint without the button, what the old timers used to call "X'ing," and what I like to call "MindsEye Pinpointing."
The 1350 lends itself to this; it's easy to learn and saves time. This segues into the next part...
- Understand that the profiling feature comes on AFTER pinpointing for a reason... it's part of a planned sequence of operation.
{{ Some folks complain about the Profiling, but I LIKE it. To be fair, I didn't at first. But once I decided to let it teach me how it should best be used, I got a new appreciation for it. Here's the sequence I follow, referred to as the Edmonton "Profiling Double Tap" ** }} :
A. After "X" pinpointing, press pinpoint once, or simply release the PP after you have manually pinpointed.
B. The Profiling will auto-engage and then you allow it work, letting the data sink in...
C. Turn off Profiling by pressing the PP button once more .
Simple sequence, very logical - easy to get used to.
** The "Edmonton Profiling Double Tap" is just deliberately turning on the Profiling and then, just as deliberately, turning it back off as part of your hunt sequence... Life gets less stressful when you accept these things.
- Keep your batteries warm.
- Use headphones.
- Get both the dust and coil covers.
- Make the "Rubber Bumper PinPoint Mod".
Get a 3/8-1/2" stick on silicone rubber bumper at the hardware store and stick it on the PP button (see the pic). This is a Godsend and a must do.
- Finally, go back and read my first tip again.
Welcome aboard,
David
Don't get the larger coils unless you need depth in clear fields, open grassy areas or deep woods you hunt regularly. Otherwise, they "see" to much ground and too many targets beneath the coil. And don't get the dinkiest coils unless you hunt in extremely trashy sites.
As for tips, here are a few (remember, you asked for it
) :Read the booklet that comes with the detector - A LOT. I've read and re-read it. For instance, I never really caught on to the distinct sound that is heard when you engage the Profiling feature...that is until I found mention of it in the booklet.
I believe this is a problem that Garret could rectify - the information is sketchy, for a detector that really has so much going on. For a newbie, their direction is to guide you to learn through using the detector. But there is much they could offer in the way of "tips" that would help.
From the Archives:
"(EDITED) From Andreas Meyer, NM
1. Tape the coil cable straight up the lower rod.
2. Set the threshold to the point where you can barely hear it.
3. After number 2, run sensitivity at 5-7.
If the detector is not stable back down a notch, or until it becomes so.
4. Run it in jewelry mode for max depth.
If you run it in coin mode, you loose some depth.
5. Get the 4.5 inch coil for it. That coil will give you great target separation and ID around old houses and in trash. It will also allow you to run high gain (SENS). But it is exasperating to use, like all small coils.
6. Make sure you always have a spare battery holder.That is the only weakness of the Garrett.
{{ When mine developed a crack, I called (or emailed) Garrett and they sent two more, for free. - David}}
7.If the ID jumps from iron to coin and vice versa...it's junk.
If it jumps around within the coin range, it's a deep coin most of the time.
The Garrett GTP 1350 is the same model like the GTAx 1250 but the 1350 has profiling (sizing)... you can tell by the length of the tone what size the target is.
{{ This is something you can learn by turning off all tone ID and Profiling, Then the detector will signal "long" over shallow or large targets and it will signal "short" over smaller/deeper targets. Do this for several hours and it becomes second nature. Again, it's mentioned in the booklet, but isn't really developed as a user tool - David }}.
In trash you can't rely on Profiling alone, because the coil sees too many targets at once and the reading is off.
The GTP 1350 can Profile-size with ALL Garrett coils, unlike the GTIs.
Is the Garrett deep ??? Yes if you follow my tips.
It is as deep as every other top of the line detector out there. I compared it to the Whites MXT and can say the Garrett hits better on silver and copper, but the MXT is a little hotter on nickels.The Garrett runs quieter.
The Garrett is well balanced and fun to use. You don't have to read the manual every time you use it, because it's that easy.
{{ But read it - David}}
There are no outside controls you could accidentally bump or turn.
Target ID is right on if you use the right coil for the area you hunt in. Nickel can come in a little higher some time, so accept one more notch up.
I liked the 1250 better, because I don't fancy the profiling. Performance is the same.
HH,
Andy
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And another group of "user tips", from yours truly:
Posted By: Dahut
Date: Wednesday, 14 December 2005, at 9:29 a.m.
In Response To: Hoping to pickup my GTA 1350 tomorrow. (Farnum)
A great machine, one you can and should practice a lot with. The Garretts are overlooked a lot by people as being toylike, goofy and ineffective - I know, I used to say those things myself. But, that was my undoing; the more I use mine (1350), the more capable I find it to be.
- NUMERO UNO. It's very sensitive and running your SENS too high will kill you...especially in trashy sites. Always start low (4-5) and work your way up till the falsing begins, then back down a notch or two.
As Bill Revis says, "The 1350 is sensitivity driven." He also says, "...the SENS control is NOT a depth control."
He's right...it is a gain control for the receive circuits. Cranking it up has a combined effect: increasing the gain AND sending the circuits into instability, especially in the presence of trash/minerlization/multiple targets.
- Strap the cable to the lower rod so it doesn't flop around, as it'll pick up the wires in the cable if your SENS is set high. But don't tie it down rock solid - give it a little strain relief, or wiggle rom. I use Velcro straps.
- In clean sites, you can crank er 'up a bit. 8-10 isn't too high in low trash, mildly mineralized soils. The depth is there.
- Deep/small targets result in SHORT DURATION beeps. NOT "softer" sounding... shorter. The Garrett does not employ amplitude modulation. This means the signal volume is the same regardless of depth, but the duration changes.
This one fact gave me fits the first time I had one of these (1250).
- Don't be afraid to swing it a little faster than recommended. It gets a bit deeper when you do and still picks up the good signals, especially where they are shallow.
But remember, and this is a point Bill Revis makes time and again, steady and thorough will always win over fast - slow down once you've found a "hot spot" and then work to isolate the signals.
- Test the trash separation at home on the floor, in your yard, etc., so you have an idea of how things work in the real world. This factor will make or break you. When I place a dime at 2-3" from a nail, I get a clean "dime" signal with the stock coil. That's good separation. You should learn what yours does, too.
- Work to pinpoint without the button, what the old timers used to call "X'ing," and what I like to call "MindsEye Pinpointing."
The 1350 lends itself to this; it's easy to learn and saves time. This segues into the next part...
- Understand that the profiling feature comes on AFTER pinpointing for a reason... it's part of a planned sequence of operation.
{{ Some folks complain about the Profiling, but I LIKE it. To be fair, I didn't at first. But once I decided to let it teach me how it should best be used, I got a new appreciation for it. Here's the sequence I follow, referred to as the Edmonton "Profiling Double Tap" ** }} :
A. After "X" pinpointing, press pinpoint once, or simply release the PP after you have manually pinpointed.
B. The Profiling will auto-engage and then you allow it work, letting the data sink in...
C. Turn off Profiling by pressing the PP button once more .
Simple sequence, very logical - easy to get used to.
** The "Edmonton Profiling Double Tap" is just deliberately turning on the Profiling and then, just as deliberately, turning it back off as part of your hunt sequence... Life gets less stressful when you accept these things.
- Keep your batteries warm.
- Use headphones.
- Get both the dust and coil covers.
- Make the "Rubber Bumper PinPoint Mod".
Get a 3/8-1/2" stick on silicone rubber bumper at the hardware store and stick it on the PP button (see the pic). This is a Godsend and a must do.
- Finally, go back and read my first tip again.
Welcome aboard,
David
RickIowa2009
New member
I do run my sensitivity high as long as I do not get alot of false signals, and as long as I am not in trashy areas. The GTP1350 does find silver as lon as it is there. Depth is great, I have found targets up to 10 inches. I dig targets on the nickel setting, and one notch above and below, depending on soil conditions I have found alot of nickels ab ove the foil notch. Its a dinger on quarters and dimes. When you get penny signals you might want to dig them so that your not missing small rings, all my silver targets are v ery solid tone. If you swing your coil and get that solid tone both ways dig it, if it only tones one way its usually trash. Pop cans shredded by mowers come up as silver often?
Unfortunately I dont have access to good sites like some of you guys. I have no doubt that I can find silver, maybe not all of it because of depth. I have found several rings in the last two monthes on dry landed, at least half are sterling silver, one gold, one eye ball gold, one silver eye balling lol while out metal detecting.
If it is a strong rough signal, sometimes Ill dig those as well. Good luck, hope this helps, dont be afraid to run that sensitivity hig in areas that arnt trashy!
Never go above 11. Weird stuff happens lol.
Rick in Iowa
Unfortunately I dont have access to good sites like some of you guys. I have no doubt that I can find silver, maybe not all of it because of depth. I have found several rings in the last two monthes on dry landed, at least half are sterling silver, one gold, one eye ball gold, one silver eye balling lol while out metal detecting.
If it is a strong rough signal, sometimes Ill dig those as well. Good luck, hope this helps, dont be afraid to run that sensitivity hig in areas that arnt trashy!
Never go above 11. Weird stuff happens lol.
Rick in Iowa
If you swing your coil and get that solid tone both ways dig it, if it only tones one way its usually trash.
I distinctly recall a Wheat Cent at 5" in the middle of a bunch of trash. It came through clearly with it's Belltone, and once I worked it from a couple of angles, it was obvious there was something good amid the trash clutter. I was very impressed by that - and it was using the stock coil.
Pop cans shredded by mowers come up as silver often?
That is odd, that there is no jumping around of the cursor. The audio may be good, but the cursor should at least twitch.
I distinctly recall a Wheat Cent at 5" in the middle of a bunch of trash. It came through clearly with it's Belltone, and once I worked it from a couple of angles, it was obvious there was something good amid the trash clutter. I was very impressed by that - and it was using the stock coil.
Pop cans shredded by mowers come up as silver often?
That is odd, that there is no jumping around of the cursor. The audio may be good, but the cursor should at least twitch.
RickIowa2009
New member
Some of the pop cans get cut enough that it comes up as a dime!