How consistent /stable can one expect the signal to be ?

[Knipper]

Still learning the SE...

On deep individual signals, how consistent a reading can one expect the explorer to deliver? For example on a deep dime or penny (6" PLUS), will the digital read out "lock on" to some degree when passing the coil over the target?

Also, if the target is next to some small trash ( but not an overwhelming iron signal) will the signal at least occasionally read in the range it should when sweeping (wiggling) the coil above the signal in a tight span?

Unfortunately, I haven't really found any deep targets to tune in my ears yet. There are "worked out" sites a plenty where I am and I suspect there are still a few good targets the SE should be able to find. But I'm still in the learning curve. Yesterday, I dug several deep signals that turned out to be nails that were quite deep. I could find no other targets in the hole with the SE or my pinpointer. The signal audibly read high from most directions, but would fluctuate on occasion. I don't want to miss a good target, but with a sophisticated discriminator at my disposal with the SE, I don't want to dig a ton of junk either. Of course, it could just be that I didn't walk over any coins to begin with, but it would be nice to know what to expect.

Settings were coins, jewelry, pulltabs and screw caps all checked, FE coins, crowncaps nails and foil all X'd. Manual sensitivity at 22 (highest stable setting I could use). Other settings were normal, and conduct. Fast and deep were off.

Thanks for any advice!

Knipper

 

[Rick(ND)]

First thing you are using the select too much with the different things checked or X out. If you have the screw caps X out you wont get the new zinc pennies plus the IH and many of the very early Wheaties. I also believe with the pull tabs X out you wont get the nickles either, just try the nickles and the zinc pennies and see what it will do. Just check the coin icon and that is it under the select, then learn the tones and and what digital numbers go with witch tones, or if you are using the smartfind where the placement for the cross hairs are. You will also see that many coins are not perfect environment and some will have trash with them, or 2 or more coins together and this is where some of these patterns with things check off will be where they would have read, so keep the screen as open as you can so you can hear them if the coil goes over them.
I too did a lot of rusty nails if they are deep as you never know as they do sound good sometimes and it would be wise to check them out than leave a $2000 coin for the person that will check it out.
Also if you don't want to get so many nails falsing set your tones to ferrous instead of conductivity. The rusty bottle caps and some pieces of tin cans will sound good, but you know they are trash as the cross hairs are on the bottom right or long the right side down from the top of the screen. If digital you use the conductivity numbers will be low along with the ferrous numbers.

Rick

 

[captainbottletop]

I think i am right in saying most signals on coins sound consistant down to the fringe area's of the maximum detection depth. Every one has heard of those one way signals that repeat from only 1 direction , so far all my one way signals have turned up iron trash.

 

[Knipper]

Thanks, Capt'n!

That's what I've observed too with other machines since starting in 1976. I just didn't know if the SE responded the same way. Sure, there have been exceptions to the one way signals, but if I'm uncertain, I dig it.

I'm still trying to find a deep old coin so the sound imprints on my brain. I don't think you ever really get to know your detector until you've found a few deep good coins. From that point on, confidence builds and you know what to listen for.

Knipper

 

[Knipper]

Rick,

The only items I'm "rejecting" (by putting an X next to the item) are bottlecaps and nails. I'm putting check marks (accept) next to coins, jewelry, foil, pulltabs and screwcaps.

I've never quite understood what would happen if you simply leave the item "blank" instead of checking or x'ing the box. Minelab customer service told me that the machine responds better if you actually check the items you want to find (check mark..) as opposed to leaving them blank.

Still learning....

Knipper

 

[Johnny]

If you are in trash your ID don't work good on a explorer , you will have to hunt with tone only. Even if you us a smell coil plan on it.

 

[Tony N (Michigan)]

A 6" dime or penny is a piece of cake for the Explorer and should give you a very definite lock on the smart screen (that's what I use) and sound.

If you are looking for a dime or penny at around 10" depth expect the cursor to jump from where the coin should be to jumping to the left of the screen then back again over and over (on the smart screen). At least this is normal in my area. The sound should also be greatly diminished as well in amplitude.

 

[RandyNorthridgeca]

Hi Knipper,

As a general rule of thumb a dime at 6" should pretty much lock on and sound loud and clear. It all depends on the mineralization in the ground, angle of the coin in the ground, and any trash items that might be close by. I've been using ferrous for three years and I've just switched to using conductive tones. I switched one month ago so I'm in a learning curve right now. I don't use any discrimination and at first I was digging a lot of deep iron that sounded good to me. I've since learned that if the cross hairs gets buried in that upper left corner and it has that high shrill tone it's been iron. I'd like to say on deep hits (towards the bottom of the depth gauge)that if the cross hairs jump from upper left corner to upper right corner or right upper corner to upper left corner you can tell if it's going to be a coin but I haven't found a good target yet when that happens and I've dug a ton of them that do that. I always get a thin piece of iron trash or nail. So far those bouncers from corner to corner that have that high shrill like tone are iron. I'm about ready to stop digging them unless the tone doesn't have that high shrill tone. I've also gone to the smartfind screen instead of the digital screen.

I only dig targets that are halfway or lower down the depth gauge. I only dig shallow targets in an old park if the target is mixed in or close to trash if I can get the right tone to come in and the cross hairs are close to the top line. I did get a deep Indian Head that sounded iffy and bounced from upper left corner to the right along the top line but I knew it wasn't iron by the tone and it was deep and I dug it. It was close to 8 inches deep, mixed in with a piece of pull tab and in pretty bad shape. It's only the fifth IH I've found. You're right in thinking that a target mixed in with trash or close to trash will sound partially good. You'll be able to hear the good target trying to bleed through the trash. If your using too much discrimination you might mask out some of these type of targets.

Your settings look good for someone learning the explorer. I'd only suggest you turn "FAST" on. You didn't say what your gain is set to but if it's still at the factory setting of 8 I'd lower to 5 or 6 so you can hear what a deepie sounds like.

HH Randy

 

[keithinvestigations]

Hey Knipper, your question is exactly what I have been wanting to ask but just couldn't put it into words. I want to know so much more about the SE but find myself feeling empty after reading the manual. It's kind of like the bible, it leaves a lot to interpretation. Anyway the suggestions posted are very interesting. I too have wondered whether things should be checked or just left blank. I noticed that nothing changes in the discrimination patter if you have coins checked and you check anything else. Interesting. Have you every tried to hunt with zero discrimination? I'm wondering how many people actually do that. It seems like one would have to go very ssslllllooowww to be able to interpret all those sounds.

 

[Knipper]

Well, I used to have a Fisher CZ-6. Three tones...iron(Low) pulltabs rings etc (med) and coins (high). I could manage those three quite well in "all metal". The multiple tones of the SE are a bit overwhelming to me right now, so during the learning curve, I'm pretty much on preset until I get more experience. Its kind of like once having learned Spanish, I now have to converse with someone in Japanese!

But! With the SE, you can basically reconfigure it. I haven't tried yet, but it appears you can limit the variability of the signals' pitches. Maybe if you take the variability down to a setting of three or four, you may approach the "three tone" setting. After all, those targets that are obviously not coins, and obvious not iron are all subject to interpretation...they could be anything from a pull tab to a token or a gold ring of any particular alloy. You would dig them to make sure anyway, and the readout should still give you numbers. So, if the target sounds off with an "in between" sound, you could consult the numbers or look where the cursor is to make a decision. Maybe there are operators out there who can distinguish the tones between a pulltab and a gold ring of similar conductivity, but I kind of doubt it. There are too many sizes, alloys and shapes of gold rings to really make it a sure thing.

I still share your confusion on what is happening if a type of target is checked, X'd, or just left blank, though. Again, the factory told me that one should have them checked (accepted) to avoid too much of a "blanking" effect after the target is detected. So, to me, that means that I should be putting a check mark after coins, pull tabs, foil, screwcaps, jewelry...and put an X next to nails and crowncaps (bottlecaps?) Don't really know what to do with FE coins yet. If I were in Canada, I'd have that one checked too I guess, but I just leave it blank. I think I'll restate the question and re-ask on this forum.

Knipper

 

[rock digger]

now that is some very good information. i thank you for your help in finding out the true meaning of the X or check mark.not trying to cheat on the SE but i wish some of the pros would post more info as you did. this helps the new person out, alot and i bet they dont even realize how helpful a small bit of info is to us. thanks again.not to say we dont get good info we do. i need more sometimes.