How does the Safari cope with crown caps?

[Mick in Dubbo]

Do they sound like coins or does the Safari give you clues that you have a twist top (crown cap) under the coil? ie. jumpy numbers scratchy tones eta.
Mick Evans.

 

[Elton]

n/t

 

[ngrelic]

Aluminum twist caps read the same as a coin, I.D. of 33, 34. Only dug one "crown cap" while relic hunting and don't recall the I.D. or tone.

 

[Mick in Dubbo]

My best guess then is that it must give a broken tone or the Safari must see it as iron; or you are incredibly lucky and there are no crown caps where you hunt.
Aluminium screw caps are a whole other ball game and right were I don't want them; in the same location as our $1 and $2 coins It would be interesting to see if there were any subtleties of tone or width of tone that might separate these 2 targets.
Thanks for replying.
Mick Evans.

 

[Onus]

I have dug a hundred aluminum screw on caps for every coin I believe. It shows 38, silver range, and sounds just like a quarter to me. Onus

 

[ronaldj2]

So the real question is: "How do we cope with the crown caps?" I get the same reading as Onus, dug some today in fact, they don't make a chatter sound either. If you try to scrim them out you will be getting rid of too many numbers including the numbers that get you the real MCcoy. Ron

 

[Mick in Dubbo]

I was thinking about the steel ones from beer bottles. Yeah the screw caps are a real pain. Our $1 and $2 coins are in that range. I was curious about the crown caps as there are a few productive spots that I'd like to hit that are totally littered with them.
When I replace one of my detectors, it'll be a toss up between the Safari and the E-Trac.
Mick Evans.

 

[ronaldj2]

If you are hunting for a specific target, then get the id# of the beer caps, and also of the targets that you want to hunt. Take the objects and make a comparison of the numbers and the sounds, and reject the caps, while still passing the coins over the coil, so you don't reject the coins also. Reject the caps one number at a time(always checking your coins) until you can totally scrim them out or at least come close. This way you are only focused on 1 or 2 particular targets and everything else is phased out. You can always do the same thing if you are switching targets, this helps make your hunt more productive for that specific thing you are looking for. Hope this helps, let us know ! Ron

 

[zeekeys]

Hi Mike Evans
I love my Safari and it is simple to run but takes time to get used to. It is a great beach detector. I know now that I should have gone with the E-trac. The Safari is my first Minelab but already looking at the E-trac for the next detector......Z

 

[ronaldj2]

I too am looking at the E-trac as my next minelab. Certainly more to learn and know about the safari(first minelab). I always try to go top of the line whenever possible. I'm satisfied thus far with the safari, besides I usually don,t get another machine until it has paid for itself, or 10yrs has gone bye whatever comes first. If you can swing it then go for the E-trac. Whichever route you choose I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Ron

Ps- My White's xlt paid for itself many years ago, just stuck with it I guess!!

 

[Mick in Dubbo]

Thanks for the input Ron.
I prefer to hunt with less discrimination when I can as I find on most detectors tend to perform more poorly when you use too much disc.
I currently own an old Explorer XS. It's 10 years old! I've had it for a couple of years now, but have only put on a bit over a 100 hours on it. Had a big light bulb moment with it on the week-end, which would have me leaning more towards the E-Trac. It has to do with having long tones on it. Before that, I was seeing the E-trac and the Safari on close to the same level, with only better recover speed and ergonomics being the main differences.
I bought an XLT last year, but it's seen even less time. I like the idea of having detectors paying for themselves. If I could stop buying detectors long enough, then I'll do just that. I've got a couple that have paid for themselves and their accessories. I also have 2 others that are close to half paying for themselves. If I can just resist the temptation long enough. If I lived in the big smoke, then it'd only take a few months for the E-trac to pay for itself and the Safari, even shorter.
Mick Evans.

 

[Mick in Dubbo]

Good luck with it Zeekeys.
Mick Evans.

 

[ronaldj2]

My first was a White's coinmaster 5000D(I think) that was given to me about twenty yrs ago. It had the big blue metal box housing, well it was old when I got it. I used it maybe 5-7 yrs before it findly died. Then 11or 12 yrs ago I bought a BH pioneer 202 from walmart for $198, it paid for itself in 1 yr, with jewelry and coins. I graduated to the white's xlt and had that for the past 10yrs, it paid for itself 3-4yrs ago when I found a 1787 N.J. copper in pristine condition only 1" deep. So in Feb. I wanted to try something new and bought the safari, along with the BH 505 pro package. So far I've done well with 5 rings and some other jewelry and of course many, many clad coins only two silver. Thats only 2 mths with the detector, I'm confident this will pay for itself
in a very short period of time. I've got a wife and 4 boy's and a modest income, so I don't often spend that much money on myself. My 2 youngest boys go detecting with me and use their own machines both are the BH's. So we have fun and bond with each other at the same time. Ron

 

[ngrelic]

My first was a Fisher 441, all metal machine and strictly for relic hunting, back in 1978. I've gone through several Fishers, Whites, Garret, Nautilas over the years and last September bought my first Minelab, xterra 50. Got the Safari in January, it may take a long while to pay for itself if all I dig is minie balls and eagle buttons(LOL) but all it takes is one good find with cw relics and all I've got to do is get over it.

I will try to do some coin hunting this summer, its been a long time since I really consentrated on coins though.

 

[ronaldj2]

n/t