GroundScanner
Active member
Hi guys , I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to factory reset the F70 ? Thanks GS
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How to reset the F70 ?
- Thread starter GroundScanner
- Start date
GroundScanner
Active member
I got it ,thanks. GS
WhatTheBeep
Member
Hold the "Menu" and "Ground Grab" buttons while you turn the F70 on. You should see "88" on the VDI if it reset.
GroundScanner
Active member
Thanks WTB,GS
WhatTheBeep
Member
No problem, though by the time I went to verify it on my F70 and hit the submit button I was a little late. 
GroundScanner
Active member
As I ask the question I seen it in the manual. Go figure. GS
WhatTheBeep
Member
I've only had mine a couple of weeks. But I bet Mudpuppy, Revier, and some others will be along shortly with some good info that might set your hair on fire if you're not careful. 
. It's very similar to the F75 as well, so a lot of the same tricks will apply.
. It's very similar to the F75 as well, so a lot of the same tricks will apply.
GroundScanner
Active member
I just got my son the F70 and I just got the F75se about a month ago and I am still learning myself. But I am sure these guys will help you. Start a new post and you will get the help your looking for. As this post they may not see you are looking for help. GS
REVIER
Well-known member
A few tips not in the manual.
One thing I learned is if you plan on going deep you had better get used to noticing and hearing the good tones.
Screen info could be unreliable at best, nonexistent at worse.
A additional sensitivity enhancement/boost program is employed when Disc is set at '4' (and lower). With a more rational Disc setting of '5' ...... the sensitivity is returned back to normal levels. When Disc is above '20' ..... due/because a lot of chatter is reduced......... this allows for the sensitivity enhancement/boost program to be employed again. There is justification for this engineering intent. Most folks would not understand this rationale ...... or even know it exists; yet, Dave Johnson is on top of engineering attributes that many would never have reason to think thereof. There's plenty of other attributes within the programming logic of the T2/F75 architect that are 'behind-the-scenes' ....... and most folks may never discover it. What's (underlying) is............ as you become more of a seasoned detectorist and delve into the 'professional treasure hunter' category..... then (and only then) do you start to become more 'demanding' of your unit...... with additional required performance/programming ........................................................ only to discover ............................. these things have already been 'thought' out................... AND are employed in the detector. This is called 'forward thinking'.
There's a big difference in 3-tones vs 4-tones on the T2/F70/F75 platform. When you are in 4-tone........ many older coins will report as the 3rd highest tone. If you are in 3-tone........ all of these coins will ID as a mid-tone........................ just like aluminum trash. Whilst in 4-tones...... and hunting for coins and old-coins........ dig the top two tones. Sometimes the 3rd highest tone (whilst in 4-tone) is called the 'zinc penny' tone. Yes.... zinc pennies do audibly ID as the 3rd highest tone.......... but so do silver Trimes, Half Dimes, Indian Head pennies, $5 Half Eagle gold coins, silver coins slightly masked, early generation wheat pennies......... and a host of other coins. Any of the tone option settings does indeed give modulated audio responses...... as long as Sens is approx '80' or below.
If you are wanting maximum unmasking abilities/capabilities in trashy areas............. and are NOT performing a pit-digging/site-excavation (removing every fleck of metal)............. stay in the ID mode. You should select 1-tone whilst in the ID mode......... but you MUST use discrimination....... JUST BARELY enough Discrimination in the ID mode.... so as to knock out MOST (but not all) of the iron. This is 'usually' a Disc setting of '6' with the F75/F70. (((Your specific site/conditions/decomposition-status of the iron may require a slightly different Disc setting))). Nails will snap/crackle/pop/click/tick............... but NOT give you any half-length or full-length audio report. They are ALMOST (but not completely) discriminated out. When a non-ferrous item is added to this carpet of nails and flecks of rust........... NOW........... the audio length in your headphones will be half-length...... or even longer....... audio report. This should be enough to lock up your brakes.... for further investigation. Do not expect the ID to be correct.......... as there are multiple targets under the coil. It will not "ONLY SEE THE NON-FERROUS TARGET" ........... rather............ it will see the composite of all of the targets (ferrous and non-ferrous) underneath the coil....................... and the 'composite' conductivity of all the items underneath the coil will be slightly higher than a discrimination setting of '6'............... causing 'some' audio length to be reported. You can THEN look at the ID............. but............. this will usually get you into trouble............ as most folks look for 'clean' ID numbers............. of which will NEVER happen.......... in carpets of nails.
One thing I learned is if you plan on going deep you had better get used to noticing and hearing the good tones.
Screen info could be unreliable at best, nonexistent at worse.
A additional sensitivity enhancement/boost program is employed when Disc is set at '4' (and lower). With a more rational Disc setting of '5' ...... the sensitivity is returned back to normal levels. When Disc is above '20' ..... due/because a lot of chatter is reduced......... this allows for the sensitivity enhancement/boost program to be employed again. There is justification for this engineering intent. Most folks would not understand this rationale ...... or even know it exists; yet, Dave Johnson is on top of engineering attributes that many would never have reason to think thereof. There's plenty of other attributes within the programming logic of the T2/F75 architect that are 'behind-the-scenes' ....... and most folks may never discover it. What's (underlying) is............ as you become more of a seasoned detectorist and delve into the 'professional treasure hunter' category..... then (and only then) do you start to become more 'demanding' of your unit...... with additional required performance/programming ........................................................ only to discover ............................. these things have already been 'thought' out................... AND are employed in the detector. This is called 'forward thinking'.
There's a big difference in 3-tones vs 4-tones on the T2/F70/F75 platform. When you are in 4-tone........ many older coins will report as the 3rd highest tone. If you are in 3-tone........ all of these coins will ID as a mid-tone........................ just like aluminum trash. Whilst in 4-tones...... and hunting for coins and old-coins........ dig the top two tones. Sometimes the 3rd highest tone (whilst in 4-tone) is called the 'zinc penny' tone. Yes.... zinc pennies do audibly ID as the 3rd highest tone.......... but so do silver Trimes, Half Dimes, Indian Head pennies, $5 Half Eagle gold coins, silver coins slightly masked, early generation wheat pennies......... and a host of other coins. Any of the tone option settings does indeed give modulated audio responses...... as long as Sens is approx '80' or below.
If you are wanting maximum unmasking abilities/capabilities in trashy areas............. and are NOT performing a pit-digging/site-excavation (removing every fleck of metal)............. stay in the ID mode. You should select 1-tone whilst in the ID mode......... but you MUST use discrimination....... JUST BARELY enough Discrimination in the ID mode.... so as to knock out MOST (but not all) of the iron. This is 'usually' a Disc setting of '6' with the F75/F70. (((Your specific site/conditions/decomposition-status of the iron may require a slightly different Disc setting))). Nails will snap/crackle/pop/click/tick............... but NOT give you any half-length or full-length audio report. They are ALMOST (but not completely) discriminated out. When a non-ferrous item is added to this carpet of nails and flecks of rust........... NOW........... the audio length in your headphones will be half-length...... or even longer....... audio report. This should be enough to lock up your brakes.... for further investigation. Do not expect the ID to be correct.......... as there are multiple targets under the coil. It will not "ONLY SEE THE NON-FERROUS TARGET" ........... rather............ it will see the composite of all of the targets (ferrous and non-ferrous) underneath the coil....................... and the 'composite' conductivity of all the items underneath the coil will be slightly higher than a discrimination setting of '6'............... causing 'some' audio length to be reported. You can THEN look at the ID............. but............. this will usually get you into trouble............ as most folks look for 'clean' ID numbers............. of which will NEVER happen.......... in carpets of nails.
GroundScanner
Active member
Great info REVIER 
. Thanks,GS
. Thanks,GSREVIER covers just about everything, but as a newbe you need to know that many run their machines maxed out, pushing the limits
and doing this makes for a very noisy machine, thus, being able to properly identify targets through the crackle pop and zips is essential, as\
Revier details. Here is a couple of tips from this old coin hound:
1. The wiggle -- rapid shaking of the machine in very short strokes back and forth to center the target. This is just a variation on what Mud suggests
-- I have found the VID identifying the target, and the Confidence scale to be very reliable but then I run my machine in a very quiet mode
-- SENS 60, DISC 21, THESH -3, TONE 3H -- If you run in a hotter mode, like no Disc, and Sens 90+ it will become more about what you hear, I think.
2. Do not think that swinging this machine in slow motion will find more. In fact you can take a coin and move it very slowly across the coil and
it will not read it. This Machine is a fast one, and you cannot swing it too fast, in fact it will hit good targets every time while skipping over others.
3. Aluminum, bits and pieces will read like nickels and if you want nickels you will have to dig these. Those park lawn mowers chop cans up into
these little bits and they present a pretty solid signal. One last thing, my depth meter reads spot on, so, if you get a great sound and hit on a target, say a
solid Dime (silver?) at 3" and you go 3" and no dime the odds are it will be a crushed aluminum can at 6 or maybe 10" or more down. So, if it ain't
at the 3" mark you have a can, most likely. I have dug enough of these to learn this. If you are an artifact hunter, however, then dig you must. Just sayin'
and doing this makes for a very noisy machine, thus, being able to properly identify targets through the crackle pop and zips is essential, as\
Revier details. Here is a couple of tips from this old coin hound:
1. The wiggle -- rapid shaking of the machine in very short strokes back and forth to center the target. This is just a variation on what Mud suggests
-- I have found the VID identifying the target, and the Confidence scale to be very reliable but then I run my machine in a very quiet mode
-- SENS 60, DISC 21, THESH -3, TONE 3H -- If you run in a hotter mode, like no Disc, and Sens 90+ it will become more about what you hear, I think.
2. Do not think that swinging this machine in slow motion will find more. In fact you can take a coin and move it very slowly across the coil and
it will not read it. This Machine is a fast one, and you cannot swing it too fast, in fact it will hit good targets every time while skipping over others.
3. Aluminum, bits and pieces will read like nickels and if you want nickels you will have to dig these. Those park lawn mowers chop cans up into
these little bits and they present a pretty solid signal. One last thing, my depth meter reads spot on, so, if you get a great sound and hit on a target, say a
solid Dime (silver?) at 3" and you go 3" and no dime the odds are it will be a crushed aluminum can at 6 or maybe 10" or more down. So, if it ain't
at the 3" mark you have a can, most likely. I have dug enough of these to learn this. If you are an artifact hunter, however, then dig you must. Just sayin'