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Ideas on diggin tools
- Thread starter mcb613
- Start date
dewcon4414
Well-known member
I have a cloth carpenter belt i wear with a couple of leather holders on each side just big enough for my fiscker digger. I drop it thru the holder with an EARTH magnate attached to the top of the blade. I carry an old garden trowel made of steel that i can just click to that magnate. In turf i can also attach a butcher knife to that same magnate along with the trowel. That knife cuts a great clean plug... much better than anything ive used. Very compact system.
Dew
Dew
I wanted to show you the setup I use. Both I made from galvanized pipe then welded large screwdriver handles to them. very cheap to make and strong. The smaller one has the Handel welded over a full round section of pipe that helps pop up the plug when you have the blade part in the ground and push down on the handle. Save wear and tear on the knuckles! I normally make a cut on each side and then push the digger in in front of me then push down and pop it up and a three sided flap is made.Then if more digging is necessary the long one with the paddle type blade can be used to dig deep without having to enlarge the original hole. Its shape allows to scoop out more dirt than the narrow bladed lesch type. The x-1 probe works much better without any loose dirt in there. And it's a good idea to carry a small light to see down in the hole when digging deep. I don't think any one digger can do it all. They aren't pretty but do the job well. If anyone wants more info on how to make them let me know.
I had similar issues, I bought the predator tools 31 inch long ball handle shovel. The shovel is extremely strong and allows me to dig much deeper than the Lesche (you can use your feet). I then went to Lowes and bought a leather hammer hanger made for your belt to carry a hammer. With the ball handle you can slide handle end first and easily carry it on your side with no problems. Do not buy a T handle shovel because it won't work. This idea has sped my recovery time up tremendously, dig more targets.......more silver!
Well, I just couldn't find a digger that would 1) dig deeper 2) hold its cutting edge and 3) stand up to serious prying.
Fortunately, I'm a knifemaker and can do something about it. I came up with this design a few years ago and its been faithfully performing ever since.
I used 5160 steel and heat treated it to bainite (which is special way of imparting extreme toughness on a few select steels that respond to the process) and then hardened only the outside 3/8" of the edge. So, the edge remains very sharp, and in fact, self sharpens when thrust into the dirt. The digger is 2" wide at the widest point, and then tapers towards the tip. This design works well for me as I like to keep holes as small as possible, and generally cut a deep "trap door" in the sod (5" to 6" deep and 5 to 6 inches per side), then pry it up. This baby is for all intents and purposes, unbreakable...and I've tried hard to do so! Its 1/4" thick at the shaft, and the trowel end is slightly hollow ground on one side, and double hollow ground along the edge on the back, and has a taper that makes it easy to slice into the soil. But where it shines is prying up the dirt/sod in just about any condition. I made it as long as it is because I am still optimistic about finding very deep coins with my SE...just haven't walked over very many.
I thought about marketing it, but found out it would be too expensive to be competitive, so I just make them for friends at cost when I have some extra time. Actually, I was thinking of sending one to Bryce for his opinion, so Bryce...if I ask for your address, it won't be for any nefarious reasons!
Knipper
Fortunately, I'm a knifemaker and can do something about it. I came up with this design a few years ago and its been faithfully performing ever since.
I used 5160 steel and heat treated it to bainite (which is special way of imparting extreme toughness on a few select steels that respond to the process) and then hardened only the outside 3/8" of the edge. So, the edge remains very sharp, and in fact, self sharpens when thrust into the dirt. The digger is 2" wide at the widest point, and then tapers towards the tip. This design works well for me as I like to keep holes as small as possible, and generally cut a deep "trap door" in the sod (5" to 6" deep and 5 to 6 inches per side), then pry it up. This baby is for all intents and purposes, unbreakable...and I've tried hard to do so! Its 1/4" thick at the shaft, and the trowel end is slightly hollow ground on one side, and double hollow ground along the edge on the back, and has a taper that makes it easy to slice into the soil. But where it shines is prying up the dirt/sod in just about any condition. I made it as long as it is because I am still optimistic about finding very deep coins with my SE...just haven't walked over very many.
I thought about marketing it, but found out it would be too expensive to be competitive, so I just make them for friends at cost when I have some extra time. Actually, I was thinking of sending one to Bryce for his opinion, so Bryce...if I ask for your address, it won't be for any nefarious reasons!
Knipper
digginrebel
New member
I use the Lesche Sampson digging tool with the ball handle so it will carry in the hammer holder - it is good for small holes and hard ground. I also use a WWII Austrian Entrenchment tool that is non-folding and has a ball handle. Has a wider, deeper blade to move more dirt, but still fits in my hammer holder on my harness set. I use it the most b/c I mainly relic hunt. HH