Menu
What's new
Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!

Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

LOCTITE Marine Epoxy Glue instructions

W

William1221

Member
Have a 10 inch coil whaT IS THE BEST WAY TO APPLY. One thick coat or a couple of thin coats. Best way to smooth it out, will it take a whole tube of the epoxy , what thickness am I looking for ,thanks.
 
if u hunt alot, especially on the sand and u are a coil scraper, re-apply a second coat in 2 weeks or.

u will see after 2 weeks where it rubs

sand the first coat lightly - the second coat will apply faster and easier - u might not need all the 2nd container, can not save it, use it

if u use a good quality brush on the first coat it will be smoother - i just use a cheap acid brush and toss

u will like the results
 
I used a hole tube and spread it with a throw away foam brush . It has held up well. It kind of smooths itself out .good luck
 
...I will agree with Max on using the whole tube and add the following.

I first did this on my Fisher CZ-70 with the 10.5" coil and it has held up well for a number of years. I used one of those little disposable aluminum-handled disposable "acid brushes" as they are called to put the stuff on. You can get them at Home Depot.

Since then I have done it to my Excalibur as well. But on the Excal I also added (after the Loctite Marine Epoxy had dried sufficiently) a good heavy coating of black spray-on Duplicolor brand "Truck Bed Coating", which I bought a big can of at Pep Boys. There are other brands...basically, it's a textured and gritty rubberized spray paint that is very tough and holds up for a few hunts before the grey of the Marine Epoxy shows through. Once that happens, time for another little spray-down with the bed liner. It's a lot easier than re-applying the epoxy and it protects it from wearing away. Not to mention keeping the coil a nice uniform black OEM color and not looking so "jury-rigged".
 
Mike (Virginia Beach) said:
...I will agree with Max on using the whole tube and add the following.

I first did this on my Fisher CZ-70 with the 10.5" coil and it has held up well for a number of years. I used one of those little disposable aluminum-handled disposable "acid brushes" as they are called to put the stuff on. You can get them at Home Depot.

Since then I have done it to my Excalibur as well. But on the Excal I also added (after the Loctite Marine Epoxy had dried sufficiently) a good heavy coating of black spray-on Duplicolor brand "Truck Bed Coating", which I bought a big can of at Pep Boys. There are other brands...basically, it's a textured and gritty rubberized spray paint that is very tough and holds up for a few hunts before the grey of the Marine Epoxy shows through. Once that happens, time for another little spray-down with the bed liner. It's a lot easier than re-applying the epoxy and it protects it from wearing away. Not to mention keeping the coil a nice uniform black OEM color and not looking so "jury-rigged".
Click to expand...

Mike,
What is the point of this? Isn't that what we have a coil cover for?
 
The point is that with a coil cover you get salt water and sand trapped in between the cover and the coil and the machine will false and act unstable. It's a real pain to have to empty it out all the time. So you can either use some RTV to seal it, which WILL fail and get stuff in there anyway AND make it very hard or impossible to get the cover off, OR you can do this. OR you can go with nothing, but that will split the coil eventually.

So many of us choose this option.
 
Mike (Virginia Beach) said:
The point is that with a coil cover you get salt water and sand trapped in between the cover and the coil and the machine will false and act unstable. It's a real pain to have to empty it out all the time. So you can either use some RTV to seal it, which WILL fail and get stuff in there anyway AND make it very hard or impossible to get the cover off, OR you can do this. OR you can go with nothing, but that will split the coil eventually.

So many of us choose this option.
Click to expand...

Oh, yeah, that's right, duh! I saved this thread and instructions and I'll be doing that to my Excal and for the matter my SE.
 
I don't have a pictorial, but anyway that you can apply a smooth and even coating of maybe 1/8" thickness or a little more if you like. You will have to work quickly if you mix it right. I would recommend a half tube at first, do as much as you can do and then mix the other half. And you MAY need a second tube, maybe not...depends on how thick. I only do the bottom, what touches the sand. I go up the sides SLIGHTLY...enough to cover the seam is all. I try to keep an OEM look. And as I said, I bed-coat the bottom to maintain that look and a little protection for the epoxy.

The stuff...
[attachment 107299 epoxy1.jpg]

The goal... (less the bed-liner coating on the bottom)
[attachment 107300 epoxy2.jpg]
 
I think the bed liner application is a nice touch. It does keep the OEM look and protects the epoxy and it will give you an indication of the wear alerting you to put another quick coat on.
 
Yes, indeed.

Now for YOU, if you are thinking of getting an Excal than you probably won't be hunting the beach with your SE much, so I would stick with the coil cover. But for the beach, I don't like them.
 
You have got to be kidding Right ?
What is the cost of that glue?
What is the cost of the cover ?
How long does it take to dry?
how long does it take to take off a cover and clean the coil and rinse it? about 10 seconds
if you sell it with the glue , the value is down
Sorry don't take it hard, but it makes no sense to me.
 
Sorry...not kidding at all. Do it or don't do it...fine with me. :)

The glue costs less than the cover.

I will never sell either my Excal or my CZ-70, the two that I have done it with. I will die first.

I do ALL my beach hunting at night, at the water's edge in the wet sand and in the water. It's a major pain in the a$$ to have to take the cover off and rinse it out and put it back on when I'm in the middle of hunting. The difference in the stability of the machine in the water it WAY better with it permanently sealed. WAY better. Like a different machine. You can do it with RTV on the coil cover but it eventually fails if you just "skin" it...in fact it fails quick. And if you put it on to where it won't you will damage or ruin the cover and maybe even the coil trying to take it off.

Max and I and several others have been doing it for years and have no complaints. If you're a dry sand hunter maybe no so important, but coil covers by the water do not work for me.
 
Mike I have used your method and it works great! thanks, but all this reminds me of a story at work. two guy's were talking about feeding there dog. One guy said he fed his dog gravy train you add the water and let it set 15 min. and stir makes a nice gravy. The other guy said he uses the same brand , puts in the water and sets it on the floor if the dog wants to wait 15 min. that's his business.:rofl:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top