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Need help with a Explorer 2 best beach settings.Falsing to much.

Bud-sc

Well-known member
What would be the best beach settings for my Explorer 2. I been getting alot of falsing with it in the wet sand. I been read the forums and I know there will be some falsing but not this must. I been using 15 WOTs coil then which coils and put the 10.5 Minelab coil. The falsing is not as bad with the 10.5 coil. Here are my settings ....semi auto is on set at 22.My gain is 6.My threshold is low but still can hear it. Some people on the other forums say to get the 11 inch pro coil because more stable. Thanks Bud-sc
 
Bud-If it isn't stable with the stock coil at auto 22 and a gain of 6 either you've got some nasty ass beach property or there's something else going on. Got any EMI around? Battery contacts are really nice and clean,contact springs in the machine are straight and contacting properly? Coil connection good and clean? No crap in the coil cover? I know you know all these things but I got burned for a couple hours with a falsing EX2 the other day before I re-inserted the battery and all of my problems went away...guess what I'm doing this winter?:ranting:
Good luck! The stock coil is the most stable one I have and I've got 4...

Kevin
 
Just came the beach. It worked after I changed the battery pack. She purr like a kitten!!! Thank you sir!!!!
 
Of course! Good to hear it's sorted out. Sometimes it's the dumbest thing. I was once running my IDX and a guy stopped to bend my ear. I politely shut off the machine and we talked for a few minutes. He went on his way and I continued detecting for a couple minutes before I realized my machine was STILL OFF. True story,sadly....
 
Glad you got the issue sorted out. But I'd advise running at semi-auto 32 for extra depth. Machine will run stable. I've used the WOT but now use a Pro Coil & do just as well plus it weighs less.

Bill (S. CA)
 
Get a SE Pro coil, stock Explorer II coil WILL leak and once you get salt water inside the outer plastic shell it will false like mad and eventually stop working. You might get it to dry out a time or two but eventually the salt corrodes the shielding wire. As for the WOT the issue there is tipping the coil up at the end of your swing, another sure way to upset the ground balance and cause a false on a salt water beach. Ditto touching the coil to seaweed, and rip the scuff covers off getting salt water and black sand between the coil and the scuff cover is yet another false generator. SE Pro coil will go plenty deep and you actually want the denser magnetic field lines of smaller coils vs a WOT for hunting beach jewelry, way better trade off. Ask me why...okay glad you asked because gold chains are KING and frequently out weigh gold rings. Diamond stud earrings are another one where density of the magnet field on a smaller coil is better. Just saying.
 
I'm not sure a whole lot of guys know what Charles said about the salt eating the shielding wire. The DD 1050 is advertised as a "waterproof coil". Maybe some leak and some don't. Maybe they eventually all do. I can tell you this...I once dunked mine in the river to get a bunch of nasty mud off of it,just the coil. About 10 minutes later it started acting all goofy...almost like my IDX acts if the GB is way positive. This was near the end of my hunt anyway and it sat for a good 3 days before I used it again. It ran fine after sitting. Why? Dunno. I use the Sunrays now with no trouble. The stock coil is very smooth though,I really like the way it behaves overall. I'm not suggesting or ever was suggesting anyone use it at the beach,I know nothing about beach hunting. YMMV
 
The original Explorer and Explorer II stock coils are constructed as follows.

There is an outer plastic coil housing (top and bottom) that's glued together, this housing is hollow and there is quite a bit of air space inside. Inside this outer plastic coil housing is another plastic shell that's molded into the shape of a double D coil. The coil's copper windings are placed in this shell and covered with epoxy. Then a thin wire is wrapped a few times around this coil shell, this is the shielding drain wire to ground. The entire inner coil shell including the drain wire is then painted with carbon black shielding paint. This is electrically conductive paint that's basically an anti-static shield, any kind of static is conducted through the shielding paint to the drain wire and off to ground. Without this shielding paint and drain wire the coil will false badly at the slightest touch, touch it with your hand, brush some grass on it and it will false. With the shielding paint and drain wire in place its perfectly stable. This inner coil is suspended on some foam pads inside the outer plastic coil housing.

Now, how the heck does water get inside this thing. Well if you look closely you will find bubbles in the glue and there can be pin holes where its not sealed. Then there is the coil cable entry, you have a coil cable flex fitting there to seal that hole, and if I remember correctly these don't have even a rubber o-ring but don't quote me on that. But still the coil is pretty well protected from water, rain, splashes, etc. so how is water getting inside the coil through these tiny openings? Okay what happens to air when its heated, it expands. Go detecting with your coil in the hot summer sun and the air inside the coil housing heats up and expands, venting out these areas. Then what happens when you go dunk your coil in cool ocean water? The air cools and shrinks creating a vacuum drawing salt water into the shell through the openings, salt water is electrically conductive and your coil will start wigging out. It doesn't like fresh water in there either. Capacitance is at work as well its not just static electricity.

One dunk in the ocean generally isn't enough to ruin a coil but repeated dunkings and your luck eventually runs out. Once the coil dries out it generally will operate normally again. You should have good luck if it was fresh water. But salt water is corrosive, it will eat at the drain wire and eventually the shielding paint/drain wire is compromised and your coil is toast.
 
And the post prior to this is why I read this forum....INFORMATION IS KING!! I'm going to go dig some stuff out of the distant archives now...hopefully I can bump some to the front for us newer guys to look over. I've seen some of it and it's really good reading for those who want "in the field usefulness".
 
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