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ProPointer skin

Ism

Well-known member
[video]http://youtu.be/9aU0xmZxKUk[/video]

Video lighting is poor but for instructional purposes and I didn't want to keep tearing off skins and re-applying them.
You need a heat gun. If you don't have one available, Harbor Freight has them for $8 plus tax. It is a very handy tool to have around the house.
The shrink film works great for the Sidekick also. As for how durable, I cannot say, but I think it should last as long as a battery.
Unless you use the scraper, the weak point will be at the on-off button (if you operate it at every target like I do).
200 gauge film thickens to 300 gauge after applied to the Propointer.
Interested? If you can't find it in small quantities, PM me for a kit.
 
Thanks Digger. It's a big help with cleanup.

I don't know why the video didn't post to the page. Its hit or miss with my videos for some reason.
I added a pic of the Sidekick under the shrink-film. No secondary binding is necessary to prevent dirt and moisture from impacting the adhesive bond.
I have a batch of Sidekicks under construction and will post them to the "for Sale" forum when I get them finished. I will now be enclosing a few of the shrink films with the kit.

It should work with the Minelab Pro-Find as long as the dimensions do not exceed those of the Garrett Pro-pointer.

The reason my Pro-pointers look new is because my original had been repaired a while back. When my new one broke, I "skinned" the original before taking it in the field while the newer one was repaired under warranty.
I'm pretty rough on my pointers aside from never using them to scrape and dig.
 
I figured out what I did wrong in the first post.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aU0xmZxKUk[/video]
 
Interesting idea. So tell me, what do you think it's waterproofing abilities are, since it's still open at both ends? I suspect, with the heat shrink all the way to the end of the battery end cap, it might very well keep water out say a few feet deep for river hunting or such? I've heard of people using vacuum food storage bags to waterproof the Pro Pointer. Just don't suck so much vacuum out that you can no longer operate the on/off button. Also, I've seen people put a second o-ring at the end cap and cover the speaker hole and led with silicone to waterproof it, but based on my experience with fixing a friend's on/off switch I can say I would not rely on the rubber switch cover to keep water out. That would need a sealant placed over it as well. Once these things are done the Pro Pointer should be waterpoof without the need of any kind of plastic to cover it, but I like your idea better for not having to peal off sealant down the road or something.

Tell me, how is the volume with the speaker being covered? I love hearing it in use combined with the vibration. The only hassle I run into with the Pro Pointer is the speaker getting clogged with mud on very wet days and I can't hear the audio anymore. Getting sick of picking that mud out of there with a toothpick so I can hear it again, so I've been looking for a way to seal the speaker hole yet not cause the volume to suffer. Anybody got any ideas for that/

Also, anybody know if that speaker is a actual speaker or a peizo buzzer? I suspect it's a piezo, and I hope it is as those are usually sealed so no water can get into them. I've had the switch cover off a Pro Pointer to clean/fix a switch and then resealed over the switch cover with a thick wide layer of clear silicone to prevent future contamination, but I never pulled the guts out of the Pro Pointer to look at other things. I could access/clean the switch via the on/off switch cover hole, and kept the Pro Pointer upright with a end cap or battery so all the flushing with electrical contact cleaner would wash the gun out the bottom of it. Works great now for him.

Be careful if anybody cleans that switch, as contact cleaner (use non-residue type) is highly flamable due to it's fumes. Even with the battery out, if the switch is stuck in the OFF position the Pro Pointer will hold a slight charge and will energize once you unjam the switch and it turns ON. That could be enough to ignite the fumes and possible cause a small explosion in your hand or at least a fire. If the switch is jammed in the ON position then when the battery is removed the circuit should de-energize completely I would think.

Use my advice at anybody's own risk.
 
If a person were to place silicone sealant around the battery area and the tip before shrinking the film, that may make it waterproof.
But I wouldn't want to take that chance or the chance that the film might have micro perferations in the skin.

If you have used your Propointer in areas where the earth is like clay/soil mix and wet, you know how it accumulates on the body.
It gets into everything. Since I started using the skin (only a couple outings), it has made clean-up very easy. It doesn't collect around the Sidekick or switch cover.
My speaker vents have always been covered with tape since my first Propointer failed from dirt intrusion. However I don't use the tape anymore now that I use the shrink film.

Critter, It reduces the volume by at least half if not more. I like it like that. I can hear it as well as feel the vibration.
I also used to pick the dirt out of the vents until I found it breeched the felt screen and dirt damaged the electronics inside. Dirt also gets in through the switch cover, its inevitable.
This solves a lot of problems, but waterproofing is not something I will stand behind. BTW, its really easy to peal off the skin and install another.

The tip protector that I provide with a kit has a small hole in the end (from a pull nipple that I cut off). The hole can be filled with a silicone adhesive/sealant like RTV.
I leave mine open as it poses no problems for the function of the Propointer. I just want those interrested to be aware of this fact.
 
for critter hunter, ive experimented with the mercury switch mentioned earlier in other post. I still cant get to be totally reliable- if i could i would put the PP in a pvc pipe, sealed at one end, with a screw cap at one end, Attached to a pole with zip ties and a plastic chain for extra safety. I would energize the unit on shore, place it in the tube and go out in the water.-etc. Flipping the pole upward when not in use would preserve battery life. You wouldnt necessarily have to squat all the way down in the water to use it then. I know the PP works through a cap, Ive tried it. Dont know how well the vibration would transmit up the pole- would experiment with different material poles for that. Speaker of course would not be heard. CO
 
I just ordered a new Pro-Pointer and will be waterproofing it with the Polyeurathane bedliner material that I spray trucks with here at my business. I will post pictures of that and my coil that I already sprayed. Coil works great and shows no sign of wear and absolutely is waterproof in saltwater and freshwater.
 
Ism I'd like to purchase some of those skins from you! I have a friend who is also on the forum. He introduced me to the skins and said he got them on here. I'm hoping I can get some too!
 
NOTE to anybody installing SKINS- Use a heat gun-Do NOT use a hair dryer. It's too slow. It will shrink the skin-BUT will soften the adhesive on the Sidekick and depress the button.

Finally got it with a heat gun. Failed 3x with a hair dryer.

just trying to save some aggravation.

Thanks for the cool Sidekick, skins and answering my E-mails ISM.
 
I am interested in some of that shrink wrap. I already have one of your sidekicks so I don't need that. The tip protector I would like to have 2 of them. Please tell me how to order. Thank you and HH
 
metalhunter2012 said:
I am interested in some of that shrink wrap. I already have one of your sidekicks so I don't need that. The tip protector I would like to have 2 of them. Please tell me how to order. Thank you and HH

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