Specification size etc for Sovereign toggle switch boots HELP! :blowup:

[sovereignelite]

Part number? Thread size? Manufacturers? LInks? Part #? Are they metric? I seemed to have found info a while ago but can't seem to find it again. I do not want to buy any more on ebay for $5 each(would like to pay less than $2). There are several manufacturers of switch boots, I'd prolly buy 100+. Any help appreciated!

 

[GeorgeinSC]

AmpHexseal Part number N5032B is the type that the switch arm protrudes through the seal. The size is 1/4 " with a 40 thread.
There are others that completely cover the switch arm. The N5032B cost around $3.50-$3.75 each plus shipping. I purchased the others for something over two dollars per pair. Cant locate the package at the present time. Will take a good look later and let you know about them . I could not get the ones that completely cover the switch on the Disc/all metal/Iron mask switch as the switch kept retreating into the control box. Had to put the amphexseal on that switch.

 

[xwyokid]

Mouser Electronics Mansfield TX. 1-800-346-6873

On my invoice it says: 608-N5032B. $3.14 each
Siliconetoggle
APM hexseal Switch Hardware
Be sure to wet the inside of the cup before you force it over the detector switch. I guess they rip pretty easily. I used a drop of water,blew the water out with my breath and quickly inserted it over the toggle.

 

[Critterhunter]

Scroll about halfway down this second page of the Sovereign Accessories Sticky until you see a post about switch boots. A thread link is provided that goes into great detail on various options/specifications. I'm using the military grade half boots myself. At first I wanted the full length boots until I found out they often wear holes in them at the tip of the toggle. These military grade half boots will still seal out water and dirt and I love them.

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1739870

Now I've just got to finally get around to covering the built in speaker grate. I'm thinking a plastic lid like perhaps off a pringles can if that's the right size. I'll probably glue it in place using Shoe Goo, as that stuff is great to waterproof and stays flexible, yet it always peals off easily and cleanly on stuff I've used it on. Haven't tried it on the face plate though on a Sovereign, so don't take my word on that.

Next time I'm inside my GT I'm removing the built in speaker for greater weight savings. I can always throw it back in for re-sale. Don't need the built in speaker for future filming as I plan to tape an ear bud to the pocket camcorder mic for better audio anyway, as the built in speaker is terrible and probably tells people this machine has bad audio when in reality it's the best I've ever used in that aspect.

When I'm in there I also plan to take those $45 wireless headphones Kbron2000 says work great with his GT (some wireless don't always work well with certain detectors) and I'm going to run the wireless transmitter off a voltage regulator directly fed by the GT's battery, which will turn on and off with the GT's power switch. The wireless transmitter will be wired directly to the headphone jack and installed inside the GT (plenty of room in there). I'm going to rig it so if I install headphones into the GT's headphone jack it bypasses the transmitter and allows me to use regular headphones again. I think this will be a cool mod...Wireless built in like a Whites. Going to use RF shielding to guard against EMI from the transmitter/regulator washing over the circuit board. The shielding will be grounded to the stock shielding and only be open on the side away from the GT so that it can still talk to the headphones.

When I'm in there, also plan to trace back the ID pin from the coil connector to see where it goes. If it's right to an IC chip without a lot of external components then I bet the Excalibur has the same ID ability on shared IC chips, since it's just a waterproof Sovereign. Report on that when I get to it. Winter project. Plan to video the wireless conversion/etc too for people.

 

[sovereignelite]

Thank you! I had bookmarked a couple sites that manufacture switch boots and saw some that are the full version(instead of the half-boot) I saw one type that is listed at .96 cents each in quantities of 100+.I But I needed some iinfo to decribe what size they are. I appreciate the info and help. I know I am not the only one who has been frustrated with locating these and or the high price. Last time I broke down and paid something like $17.00 for 3!

 

[Critterhunter]

Unfortunately the remote PP switch I rigged up on my grip won't fit the extra half boot I had left over from those for my GT. I can't find the right size at Radio Shack and ain't going to track down and order just one stinking boot for my toggle. But, I remember reading somewhere how to make a rubber boot switch for any toggle, and I think it was a guy who did it for his GT. If I remember right it involved using a small length of latex tubing like used in medical fields. You stick the tubing over the switch and over the end of the threaded nut area and then heat it up with a lighter or something. If anybody knows about this process can you refresh my memory on it? I'd like to protect my PP toggle against dirt, although it hangs down from the top of my grip so it'd be hard to get dirt or sand up inside of it, but just the same...

 

[xwyokid]

Unfortunately the remote PP switch I rigged up on my grip won't fit the extra half boot I had left over from those for my GT. I can't find the right size at Radio Shack and ain't going to track down and order just one stinking boot for my toggle. But, I remember reading somewhere how to make a rubber boot switch for any toggle, and I think it was a guy who did it for his GT. If I remember right it involved using a small length of latex tubing like used in medical fields. You stick the tubing over the switch and over the end of the threaded nut area and then heat it up with a lighter or something. If anybody knows about this process can you refresh my memory on it? I'd like to protect my PP toggle against dirt, although it hangs down from the top of my grip so it'd be hard to get dirt or sand up inside of it, but just the same...

Critterhunter,
I wonder if those electrical type hoses/tubes you can buy at auto stores or HF would work. You know, the kind that you slip over two connected wires and then put a heat gun to it and the hose/tube shrinks tight around the wire for a water tight seal.

 

[sovereignelite]

Unfortunately the remote PP switch I rigged up on my grip won't fit the extra half boot I had left over from those for my GT. I can't find the right size at Radio Shack and ain't going to track down and order just one stinking boot for my toggle. But, I remember reading somewhere how to make a rubber boot switch for any toggle, and I think it was a guy who did it for his GT. If I remember right it involved using a small length of latex tubing like used in medical fields. You stick the tubing over the switch and over the end of the threaded nut area and then heat it up with a lighter or something. If anybody knows about this process can you refresh my memory on it? I'd like to protect my PP toggle against dirt, although it hangs down from the top of my grip so it'd be hard to get dirt or sand up inside of it, but just the same...

I wonder if you could use a piece of heat shrink tubing as the base with a piece of latex coming out one end:shrink it with a lighter which would hold the latex in place?

 

[xwyokid]

Unfortunately the remote PP switch I rigged up on my grip won't fit the extra half boot I had left over from those for my GT. I can't find the right size at Radio Shack and ain't going to track down and order just one stinking boot for my toggle. But, I remember reading somewhere how to make a rubber boot switch for any toggle, and I think it was a guy who did it for his GT. If I remember right it involved using a small length of latex tubing like used in medical fields. You stick the tubing over the switch and over the end of the threaded nut area and then heat it up with a lighter or something. If anybody knows about this process can you refresh my memory on it? I'd like to protect my PP toggle against dirt, although it hangs down from the top of my grip so it'd be hard to get dirt or sand up inside of it, but just the same...

Critterhunter,
I wonder if those electrical type hoses/tubes you can buy at auto stores or HF would work. You know, the kind that you slip over two connected wires and then put a heat gun to it and the hose/tube shrinks tight around the wire for a water tight seal.

Forget it. I just tried some and it didn't seem to hold tight on metal. Oh well.

 

[sovereignelite]

Unfortunately the remote PP switch I rigged up on my grip won't fit the extra half boot I had left over from those for my GT. I can't find the right size at Radio Shack and ain't going to track down and order just one stinking boot for my toggle. But, I remember reading somewhere how to make a rubber boot switch for any toggle, and I think it was a guy who did it for his GT. If I remember right it involved using a small length of latex tubing like used in medical fields. You stick the tubing over the switch and over the end of the threaded nut area and then heat it up with a lighter or something. If anybody knows about this process can you refresh my memory on it? I'd like to protect my PP toggle against dirt, although it hangs down from the top of my grip so it'd be hard to get dirt or sand up inside of it, but just the same...

Critterhunter,
I wonder if those electrical type hoses/tubes you can buy at auto stores or HF would work. You know, the kind that you slip over two connected wires and then put a heat gun to it and the hose/tube shrinks tight around the wire for a water tight seal.

That's a good idea! ....I did check out this linkHere are some still a little high for my tastes

 

[sovereignelite]

I'm burnt out trying to find a good deal on these, found some for $2.40 but still not sure they are the right ones. here

 

[Critterhunter]

Both you guys have good ideas there. I deal with heat shrink tubing all the time and never even considered thinking of using it. If you use the right gauge tubing (radio shack or auto parts stores), it should both shrink over the threaded nut area and the toggle base I would figure. Now I have to head out to the garage and dig out my heat shrink box with assorted sizes. Sometimes the most obvious answer is right in front of your face and you never realize it. Thanks again to both of you...

 

[deepdiger60]

The heat shrink tubes work fine but you need to wipe the toggle,s off with a medical alcohol wipe pad first to remove the finger oils and dirt or the tubes wont stay on metal . Jim

 

[xwyokid]

The heat shrink tubes work fine but you need to wipe the toggle,s off with a medical alcohol wipe pad first to remove the finger oils and dirt or the tubes wont stay on metal . Jim

I tried it and it didn't work!. But, I think you could be right as I didn't clean the metal first. Now I have to try it again LOL.

 

[sovereignelite]

The heat shrink tubes work fine but you need to wipe the toggle,s off with a medical alcohol wipe pad first to remove the finger oils and dirt or the tubes wont stay on metal . Jim

I tried it and it didn't work!. But, I think you could be right as I didn't clean the metal first. Now I have to try it again LOL.

Let us know if you get it to work!

 

[Critterhunter]

The size of the heat shrink tubing is going to be critical I would guess. Just big enough to fit over the threaded area, yet not so big that it won't shrink down around the toggle to seal things. I'm wondering....Perhaps it'd be better to shrink some fine tubing over the toggle part first. Perhaps several layers to build up the thickness of the toggle, and then to shrink a bigger piece over the threaded area to seal both? Or, maybe that medical tubing over the toggle, and then a bigger piece of heat shrink over the threaded part which will grab/seal the tubing to it? Haven't played around with it yet. Let me know if anybody has any success at it...

 

[sovereignelite]

AmpHexseal Part number N5032B is the type that the switch arm protrudes through the seal. The size is 1/4 " with a 40 thread.
There are others that completely cover the switch arm. The N5032B cost around $3.50-$3.75 each plus shipping. I purchased the others for something over two dollars per pair. Cant locate the package at the present time. Will take a good look later and let you know about them . I could not get the ones that completely cover the switch on the Disc/all metal/Iron mask switch as the switch kept retreating into the control box. Had to put the amphexseal on that switch.

Thanks George. I found some at a good price! Ordered a good size batch...will let everyone know when I get them.