Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

The Nail Bounce :shrug:

bill67

New member
OK, I've heard the mention of the telltale " Nail bounce " enough times that I have to ask ..... What, How, When, Where?..... Help !! :blink:
Can somebody please fill me and the rest of the "Newbie Clan " :chase: in on this.? ......... Thanks :please:..... Bill
 
Follow this link over to Mike Moutray's Explorer screens. http://66.51.97.78/coinist/xsscreens.html
Look at the very bottom pick and read the caption above. Iron tends to bounce the cursor around the screen. That is what is referred to as the nail bounce. He shows the movement of the nail in green. Hope this helps.
 
Those were great screens by Mike and darn accurate. That lower right bounce i normally get from deep rusted nuts. If you are using Cond you will also get the occassional bounce to the far right cornor but it will quickly return to the iron side. OR it will repeat if its a hot rock and stay in that cornor.... check your digital if it reads 00 31 you have a hot rock.

Dew
 
So........ are you saying that nail bounce and iron bounce are the same thing .... in the same area on the screen ? Yea...Yea ... I know I'm dense...:blink:
 
Mike called it iron bounce.... yes that would include nails, especially bent ones. I mentioned bolts because they tend to hit just above crown caps and may jump to the left. Sometimes you can pick those out by pinpointing.

Dew
 
You said ...."Sometimes you can pick those out by pinpointing."
Do you mean when you pinpoint the iron it will ID in a place that will make it easier to tell what it is ?..... I've only hunted with my XS 4 times and now I'm froze up temporarily, so I'm having to pick people's brains until I can get back to learning in the field and try out my new 10 X 12 SEF and my new 6 inch Excelerator.....:cry:

It seems like every question I get an answer for just causes ten more questions to come up about even more stuff I'm in the dark about ......:look:
I'm starting to wonder if I'll go crazy trying to figure it all out and end up doing most of my detecting in the back yard of the " Shady Rest Nut House ":crazy:
Thanks again.... Bill
 
Moving at a 90 angle around the target and pinpointing are methods used to see where DEEP targets bounce and listen to the tone received.... are they weak tone and are they repeatable. A depth reading half or above, if it reads iron, its iron the TID is pretty accurate at that depth. But those deep ones toward the end of the depth gauge will bounce around. Sometimes pinpointing will help you size the target and if it moves off of iron dig it... if not, but its repeatable and doesnt sound like a shallow target dig it. Im sure you know what a shallow tone sounds like.... if the depth meter says deep, the tone says shallow, size says larger its not a coin and it wont repeat at 90 degrees likely have some iron. The key id say to finding those deep targets are to concentrate on deep targets. Pick you a smaller area, move slowly, and watch the deepth meter. You might consider hunting in Ferr if the are you are hunting in has a lot of iron or rusted cans, if you do open up more and dont dig those crown caps in the lower right bottom of the screen. Turn your gain down to 7 and keep your sensitivity on manual at about 24. Those settings should allow you to hear deep targets.... they may sound like falsing at first... but dont discard them swing back over ever sound to see if it repeats and go SLOW. Dont expect to cover a lot of area. The key is being able to hear deep targets and know thats what it is. Once this clicks you can change your setting anyway you want. Give the machine some time.

Dew
 
OK Dew ..... I understand ..... Maybe I won't have to hunt at the "Shady Rest " after all .:detecting: ..... I appreciate your help very much.
 
no problem.... dont worry it will click.. once it does you will be kicking yourself as to why you didnt see it.

Dew
 
I know you can't go digging right now because of frozen ground. So why couldn't you go out to the park and walk slowly and listen to the signals. Even if you took your snow shovel and scraped off a 10 x 10 area. You can still hear what is going on in the ground and it will be like doing homework before the big test. The more you study the better your chances are of getting a high score.
For me listening is 90% of the battle and you have a great opportunity to really dial in on the sounds without any digging pressure.
Just my two cents worth.
 
Well im in fl. for the winter so i can dig. But if you want to listen to signals you can down load the simulator or gather targets to pass over the coil. I just dont like the cold enough to venture out. Also, i find it difficult to guess at what might be down there ... sorry but i have to dig to verify the target reading.

Dew
 
Even though it is snowing here,.... :cry:.... I decided to spend some " quality time " today inside with my detector and ............. a silver half, a mercury dime, an Indian head, a clad quarter and a memorial penny along with some junk I had dug, like a 9mm bullet casing, a very rusty bent nail,, a 22 casing, bullet lead, aluminum, etc...... Spacing them out and putting them close to and touching one another and going over them with my coil and checking the screen....:detecting:
I played with the Iron Mask and limits and variability. Did some pinpointing with different targets within an inch to a couple of inches apart, and got a little more insight........ Put the rusty nail under, beside, and on top of the Merc and then the half and actually picked up some warbling I have heard so much about and a peep or two while in complete null and the cross hairs were buried in the iron area.......... .
I'm think I'm slowly figuring it out .:stars:...... I just don't want to go out and get totally frustrated again ...... :rage:
Before it started getting real cold here, I went to an old country church for about an hour. It was my fourth time out with the XS, tried Mike Moutray's program , dug a lot less junk and found two crusty wheats I had walked over when I had hunted there, along with some other detectorists, 6 or 7 years ago with the Spectrum.....
That made me feel better.... But only a little .... :sadwalk:
Thanks for the encouragement guys .......
 
For those who are following this thread and still need more info on iron bounce..... I found this advice that Charles in Upstate NY had shared a few years ago.....
He talks about hunting in the smart find screen, then when you get a signal with a bouncing cursor, switching to the wide open iron mask screen to help you tell if it is iron or not ....

Quote :. Now lets talk about the classic iron bounce, you come across a high pitch signal, pretty solid, sounds really good but its bouncing (I'm assuming you have switched to IM -16), if its bouncing from top/left corner to far right edge of the screen, cursor half off the right edge, about 1/4 inch down from the top, that is a classic iron bounce pattern. Its the cursor dropping down 1/4 inch that gives it away, silver doesn't do that nor does it bounce top/left corner, every now and then an indian head will hit over there (half off the right edge) but it bounces from there only about maybe an inch left, in extreem cases maybe mid screen, it also doesn't have that real high pitch tone, its more cent like, but the nails jump all the way over to the top left corner.

I have to say Charles if you read this... Thanks a bunch :please: and I hope it was OK to pass it along.
 
Top