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tones and numbers

I

ikon

New member
hi,
got home from work today but i didnt have time to take the GT out to a park but what i did do was reset my meter to 180 and got a bunch of my wifes gold and silver rings and out them on a tarp laid out on the yard and did some testing. all the gold and silver ring all locked on solid but most gold rings had different numbers and different tones which made me think about not useing the notch because i would be ignoring many potental targets . so im going to leave that opinion alone for now. as far as anything that was silver ran the meter up to a solid 180 and stayed there which was good. im off for the rest of the week so im going out to do some serious detecting . i feel im ready.
also i hit all these targets with the s-1 probe and was getting the same numbers as with the coil[ 8"] which made me realize that all the probe is is a switch box so i screwed the 10 coil into in it and was able to switch between the 8 and 10.
stan pa.
 
Stan
Just keep in mind that coins in the ground do not always meter out at 180. As I'm sure Rick and others will tell you, you can't always wiggle up a 180. You can get a nice sweet tone, but the meter may never reach 180 , but top out in high 170's. Is it a coin? Is it aluminum? Is it some other non-ferrous junk? Maybe, maybe not. Thats when all the other things come into play (is it deep ?, Am I looking for deep? is it bigger than a coin, Have I dug other stuff this number? etc, etc..). Its the old detector game we love so well.
To dig or not to dig , that is the question.
Swing that GT, have some fun. :) HH Don
 
As you have correctly observed, if you want to dig the gold you will have to dig the aluminum trash. Because most gold and aluminum trash are very close in readings and gold is all over the scale due to shape, thickness, and carat content. For this reason, the best thing to do for the beach is zero disc, zero notch. Listen to everything, dig what sounds good. For you, you need to dig everything until you know what "sounds good" sounds like. After a while you will know what a bottle cap, some foil, and many pull tabs sound like with some certainty. At the beach, leave the meter at home. On land, I always still listen to everything but then the meter comes in real handy to help you decide to dig or not. Like on nickels, dimes, etc. as well as minnieballs, musketballs, and certain repetitive things like a pull tab of a certain style that there are a lot of at a particular location. How much you want to dig is up to you, but the odds of finding a gold ring instead of a pull tab at the park are a lot lower than at a beach. You can go nuts digging everything. But again, as you learn the Sovereign, I would recommend digging MOST things for a while.

Another point to mention is the use of the Notch control. You may already realize this, but just in case: The Disc control eliminates an entire range of items...the further you turn it clockwise, the more it eliminates. The Notch control eliminates ONE THING only...like for a particular pull tab for example, or a bottle cap. You swing over the item while adjusting the notch control. When it stops signaling, you've notched out THAT ITEM. So it's possible to run "Zero disc" and then to eliminate one particular troublesome object. Or too run a very low disc level, to maybe get rid of let's say foil and then to use notch to get rid of let's say bottle caps. Or whatever.
 
Hey Mike, After owning MINELAB EXCALIBURS for at least (5)yrs., I've finally joined the Sovereign Club with my new Sov.-GT. In regards to your post, I was under the impression, that Notch Disc. notched out a small group of close proximaty range targets, not a single target period. I've never used Notch Disc. because of that understanding, and that was my understanding also after reading the Sov. Manual. So set me straight if I'm wrong, Bro!! HH
 
hey les , now from what im understanding is that say you notch out a pull tap that may fall into a gold ring range which it will our detectors wont pick it up. so that is way alot of yous here dont mess with the notch dial and thats kind of what i got out of the manual and also when i was doing air testing with the wifes rings.lets get together this week and detect less im pretty much off this week.
stan pa.
 
No, that's not right.

If you read my post carefully, it very specifically explains the difference. You twice said Notch Disc as if it was one control but it's two separate controls. The manual says they are used together to determine what targets are accepted and rejected, but that may be misleading. Read the manual again, because what it says (and the way it really works) is that the Disc control and the Notch control, when turned to the full counterclockwise position are set to not discriminate out anything. Other than iron, if you are running iron mask. Now when you turn the Disc control clockwise, you begin to discriminate out objects based on their relative conductivity. If you turn it a little you will knock out small foil. A little more then you will knock out all foil and small aluminum scraps. A little more and then you knock out all foil, small aluminum scraps, and pull tabs. The more you turn it, the more you knock out. Eventually you will knock out everything but higher coins. That's the way the Disc works.

Now if you read the manual, the Notch works differently. As you said yourself, the Notch works in a tighter range. Instead of knocking out all items below the Notch position, it ONLY knocks out items in the range of where the notch dial is set. And the way you do that is to take the specific item that you want to knock out and lay it down. Pass the coil back and forth over it and turn the notch control until you find the spot where that target stops signaling. Now THAT target is notched out. And only THAT target. Or any other target with the exact same conductivity. It works pretty well. If you test it you will see that it's a tight enough range to actually notch out lets say a certain SQUARE pull tab but respond to a ROUND one. Or similar such comparisons.

It's very simple. The Disc will discriminate out more and more junk as it's turned clockwise and accept more junk as it's turned counterclockwise. The Notch is used to discriminate out specific pieces of junk within the range. So as I attempted to use the example before, if you set the Disc to full counterclockwise you discriminate NOTHING. Now you can take a square pull tab, lay it on the ground, pass the coil over it, and turn the Notch dial to the exact position where that square pull tab stops making any noise. Now if you go back to hunting, everything but THOSE specific pull tabs will still signal.

You mentioned the Excal. As we know, the Excal has no Notch control. The Disc control on the Excal works the same way as the Disc control on the Sovereign. The Notch control on the Sovereign simply adds the ability to knock out a specific target. Other than that the machines are basically the same.

Does that make sense?
 
Les,

It does disc out a small area of targets, but it will not disc out the screw caps or the new zinc pennies. If you were to go by the numbers I think it is about 5 numbers it will notch out, so it is a small range of targets. Also to let everyone know the disc has to be set low for the notch to work as it can only notch out targets higher than what the disc is set for. The only time I use mine is when the area is loaded with pull tabs and I just notch out the ones that are the worst.
I see your post on the Barber dime first time out, that is real good to hear and I know that will only be the beginning of the great finds that can be found with the GT.
 
>>> Also to let everyone know the disc has to be set low for the notch to work as it can only notch out targets higher than what the disc is set for. <<<

That's a good point that I forgot to mention Rick, thanks for adding that.
 
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