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Waterproofing a Sovereing GT
- Thread starter dirtdog
- Start date
GraveDiggerMax-VaBch-Va
New member
not diveable, but will keep out waves and rain.........pelican boxes work good,but heavy - s t r o n g
some have used waterproof knobs and added to the boxes...........beyound my ability.
some pics for your review
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some have used waterproof knobs and added to the boxes...........beyound my ability.
some pics for your review
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grumpyolman
New member
Waterproof controls on your case?? A walk in the park. Know how to drill a 3/8 hole? Might have to read a little about modifying the drill bit for plastic so it doesn't grab and crack the hole. Most of the time I start small and just move a tiny size bigger until I get the right ID. If you don't take a giant leap between drill sizes you could probably do it without changing the bit. Don't remember exactly but had the same problem when drilling brass. The last 1/32 of an inch when pushing through would cause the drill to grab and did ugly things. I think I just touched the flutes with a Dremel tool and took some relief off and no more grabbing. Look in a machinists handbook at the library or on line and if you read it enough it will become English.
The through the hull fitting waterproof control is made with an "O" ring seal on both where the fitting attaches to the box and there are two inside the fitting through which a stainless shaft slides. You can turn it ciruclarly or move it in and out and it doesn't leak. That's what it is made for.
The cable clamp above, IMHO, is probably OK for waterproofing a wading only detector. It will not hold up to the ambient pressure for diving...even to a couple of feet. Read the entire story about the clamp. It was designed for above the waterline, through the deck conncections for those people who did not know how or didn't want to remove the plug on their Radar unit and provides a way to do an installation without removing the plug. However the hole in whatever you are drilling has to be as large as the connector you don't want to remove.
http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/control_parts.html
That link will show you the control about which I speak. Installed 3 of em on an underwater camera housing made out of plastic. Dove it to 50' and nary a drop. Allowed me to change focus, aperature, and trip the shutter all from the outside of the housing. Jim
The through the hull fitting waterproof control is made with an "O" ring seal on both where the fitting attaches to the box and there are two inside the fitting through which a stainless shaft slides. You can turn it ciruclarly or move it in and out and it doesn't leak. That's what it is made for.
The cable clamp above, IMHO, is probably OK for waterproofing a wading only detector. It will not hold up to the ambient pressure for diving...even to a couple of feet. Read the entire story about the clamp. It was designed for above the waterline, through the deck conncections for those people who did not know how or didn't want to remove the plug on their Radar unit and provides a way to do an installation without removing the plug. However the hole in whatever you are drilling has to be as large as the connector you don't want to remove.
http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/control_parts.html
That link will show you the control about which I speak. Installed 3 of em on an underwater camera housing made out of plastic. Dove it to 50' and nary a drop. Allowed me to change focus, aperature, and trip the shutter all from the outside of the housing. Jim
Sensitivity .as everything else can be set before entering the water.and wont change.actually i set everything before i enter the water as i know what settings i need for that beach.i put the box in a small back pack and off i go.only holes you really need are for the coil wire and head phone wire.and if you are not going to dive,just wade the Cable Clams will work great.only bad thing is you pretty much have to dedicate that coil and those head phones to that box as they are not easy to change in a hurry should you want a bigger/smaller coil for the day.
Sven
Well-known member
I have used special drill bits when drilling plastic since the 1980's. My original bits are still going strong.
You can usually pick them up any industrial supplier that sells plexiglass etc. plastic. Or just do a google for plastic drill bits.
Here's one link of many:
http://www.rplastics.com/plasticdrill.html
You can usually pick them up any industrial supplier that sells plexiglass etc. plastic. Or just do a google for plastic drill bits.
Here's one link of many:
http://www.rplastics.com/plasticdrill.html
GraveDiggerMax-VaBch-Va
New member
n/t
grumpyolman
New member
Duh! simple fix for drilling plexiglass. Buy the correct type bit for it. Never thought of that simple solution. Thanks for the tip. Only trouble is on the site you posted the largest they showed was 1/4". I suspect they have larger though. Jim
grumpyolman
New member
Here's a place that will allow you to choose a connector that allows coil changes like on the Tesoro Tiger Shark. Just found the site have never tried any of their stuff. I figure if it'll work on a submarine it ought to work on a detector.
http://www.seaconbrantner.com/Products/dry_mate_hybrid.htm
Jim
http://www.seaconbrantner.com/Products/dry_mate_hybrid.htm
Jim