I have two of these and use them as a main machine--they go in behind anything if tuned properley. On thing that my "mentor" Terry Cantin taught me about this machine is that the field is very powerful and the detector does not need any Gain to go deep. When you use it up high, there is more of a chance of overrunning signals. This is epecially true in fast salt water or where there are contour changes. Also, there's a lot of variation in the coils. Some will perform better with Gain, Other's not. Okay, here's the tip. You can get a pretty good idea of which signals are iron by listening for how they respond to the SAT setting--that is, how they fade out when you move the coil off. A good non ferrous target will tune out quickly and sharpley whereas iron (although this is more so of big peices) will fade out more slowley as the unit struggles to seperate it from the surrounding matrix. Paying attention to this "tune out" sound will increase your accuracy a lot.
Another good thing to keep in mind is to always take your time re-sealing. Take the control box off the wand and hold each half so you can see the gasket all around. Then seat it evenly, and before you go into the water do a quick check to make sure it's not bulging anywhere. When you have taken the gasket off to clean, be especially alert for it jumping out of the seating as it will not be conformed anymore.
Finallly, always seperate your isolator and middle stem after each hunt. If you let sand dry in the feroulle it will be hard to separate later.
Also, if you use a side mount bracket, make sure that the coil bolt is really tight --even give it a touch with pliers. If you leave it loose it will put too much pressure on the mounting ear--it can snap when you are working the coil in a dig. With the bolt tight--they hold fine and make a huge difference in reducing annoyance of a flopping coil. I also saw note from a guy who had wear on the bottom of his coil from a back-mount (Z-shaped) steadying bracket. The key with these is to make sure that everything is tight and that the bracket is bent to the proper angles. Also, use enough "zip" ties to make sure that it does not move and wear at the coil. I wrap them twice to reduce the movement even more.
Hope to see some good, deep old pulse finds posted this year.
cjc
clivesgoldpage.com
Another good thing to keep in mind is to always take your time re-sealing. Take the control box off the wand and hold each half so you can see the gasket all around. Then seat it evenly, and before you go into the water do a quick check to make sure it's not bulging anywhere. When you have taken the gasket off to clean, be especially alert for it jumping out of the seating as it will not be conformed anymore.
Finallly, always seperate your isolator and middle stem after each hunt. If you let sand dry in the feroulle it will be hard to separate later.
Also, if you use a side mount bracket, make sure that the coil bolt is really tight --even give it a touch with pliers. If you leave it loose it will put too much pressure on the mounting ear--it can snap when you are working the coil in a dig. With the bolt tight--they hold fine and make a huge difference in reducing annoyance of a flopping coil. I also saw note from a guy who had wear on the bottom of his coil from a back-mount (Z-shaped) steadying bracket. The key with these is to make sure that everything is tight and that the bracket is bent to the proper angles. Also, use enough "zip" ties to make sure that it does not move and wear at the coil. I wrap them twice to reduce the movement even more.
Hope to see some good, deep old pulse finds posted this year.
cjc
clivesgoldpage.com
