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Anonymous
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Given the choice between a CZ-3D and a CZ-70-Pro, what would you choose and why would you choose it? I have used a CZ-5 for several years but would like to upgrade if the investment would be worthwhile.
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Anonymous
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I would chose a CZ70 Pro, because it has a weather proof housing and I hunt the beach when ever I can. The 3D may do good on beach but I haven't heard much from users at the beach. Also on the 70 I like the "notching" descrimination where the 70 is digital and just notch out what I want and hear all other. Both are good machines but I like the weather proof because one can be caught out in a thunderstorm and I can feel secure knowing the 70 will handle it. HH
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Anonymous
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That's good advice-thanks
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Depends on what and where you hunt...To me a CZ3D is just a CZ5 with expanded modes, as I am a silver coin hunter wish they would make the Coins all facet smaller not expand the tones larger, basically dig more to find more so in my case CZ3D is not on my wish list..If you hunt saltwater beaches CZ70 gives you a weather resistant unit(not waterproof) and if you can use the extremely better notch system CZ70 might be worth a change. If not a CZ5 should serve you well...Again would refrain from hunting in a downpour with a weather resitant unit as the first thing Fisher will tell you its not waterproof if you want a waterproof unit the CZ20 is recommended..Been there done that...
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Anonymous
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..........I have used my CZ 7A Pro in light rain where water accumulates in that recess for the panel with no damage to the detector.
I've used a dry paintbrush to dust away dry dirt on the panel as I fear wiping it down with a damp cloth could scratch the panel. Alternately, I've frequently LIGHTLY hosed it down to remove beach sand which is sharp and might scratch the panel or abrade the paint resulting in rust. I doubt that Fisher would recommend this procedure as they would be liable for damage should an improperly tightened or crimped seal violate the integrity of the weather-proofing. It would be routine engineering practice to test weather-proofed or submersible detectors at some degree of pressure but that would be proprietary information and not available to us. I conjecture that the CZ 7A/70 design was tested at least to one atmosphere or under 6' of water for a period of time.
That trivia out of the way, I'll once again relate my beach experience with the CZ 7A Pro.
As any avid beach detectorist can tell you, "The question is not IF, but WHEN you will get your detector wet!" Being that I was born and raised by the ocean where I certainly had my share of wet dunkings as a youth, you would think at my senior age I would be a lot wiser and drier. NOT SO!
I had been at the beach only about 20 minutes and observed the wave pattern, noting that the waves washed up no closer than 15-20' below a long cut in the sand about 5' high which I was to explore. I started detecting and turned around when I heard the roar of a huge rogue wave approaching with no means of quick escape. I was knocked down and dragged outward with the receding sand and water that also built up on the face of the detector. Once at home I lightly hosed it down to remove the sand and incurred no damage to the detector. Most other non-submersible detectors, including the CZ 5 and CZ 3, would be history.
The CZ 7A Pro and the CZ 70 may not be classified as submersible .......... but it's proven to be the next best thing.
Chet
I've used a dry paintbrush to dust away dry dirt on the panel as I fear wiping it down with a damp cloth could scratch the panel. Alternately, I've frequently LIGHTLY hosed it down to remove beach sand which is sharp and might scratch the panel or abrade the paint resulting in rust. I doubt that Fisher would recommend this procedure as they would be liable for damage should an improperly tightened or crimped seal violate the integrity of the weather-proofing. It would be routine engineering practice to test weather-proofed or submersible detectors at some degree of pressure but that would be proprietary information and not available to us. I conjecture that the CZ 7A/70 design was tested at least to one atmosphere or under 6' of water for a period of time.
That trivia out of the way, I'll once again relate my beach experience with the CZ 7A Pro.
As any avid beach detectorist can tell you, "The question is not IF, but WHEN you will get your detector wet!" Being that I was born and raised by the ocean where I certainly had my share of wet dunkings as a youth, you would think at my senior age I would be a lot wiser and drier. NOT SO!
I had been at the beach only about 20 minutes and observed the wave pattern, noting that the waves washed up no closer than 15-20' below a long cut in the sand about 5' high which I was to explore. I started detecting and turned around when I heard the roar of a huge rogue wave approaching with no means of quick escape. I was knocked down and dragged outward with the receding sand and water that also built up on the face of the detector. Once at home I lightly hosed it down to remove the sand and incurred no damage to the detector. Most other non-submersible detectors, including the CZ 5 and CZ 3, would be history.
The CZ 7A Pro and the CZ 70 may not be classified as submersible .......... but it's proven to be the next best thing.
Chet
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Anonymous
Guest
I doubt that Fisher would recommend this procedure as they would be liable for damage should an improperly tightened or crimped seal violate the integrity of the weather-proofing.
Direct quote of the above writer.
Read your warranty abuse goes a long way and the the above writers actions just might fall into that category.
The good news is if you suspect water has entered the unit, turn it off and dry it out in fresh water and should come back good as new, the bad news in salt water one drop can cause major repair bills..
Direct quote of the above writer.
Read your warranty abuse goes a long way and the the above writers actions just might fall into that category.
The good news is if you suspect water has entered the unit, turn it off and dry it out in fresh water and should come back good as new, the bad news in salt water one drop can cause major repair bills..
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Anonymous
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I should re-emphasize that I hose down "lightly" which to me means a spray stronger than a laundry spritzer but certainly not the 12 atmospheres pressure available from my tap in a steady stream.
For those with a non-weatherproofed detector that has been dunked in fresh water, I've frequently heard of opening the box and turning on the hair dryer to dry it out ............ a procedure of which I am very leary. If I were faced with the problem my choice would be to soak up the visible moisture with medical cotton and let it it dry naturally. To speed up the process there are small cans of pressurized clean, dry nitrogen available at photo shops for cleaning lenses that could be used to clear moisture and dirt from the crevices.
As for dunking in salt water that renders the detector useless, it's logical for a manufacturer to replace the entire circuit board as the least costly and reliable approach. However, if I were faced with that problem and the inevitability of a bill running into the hundreds, in desperation I would first try flushing with distilled or de-ionized water and proceeding as with one dunked in fresh water.
Chet
For those with a non-weatherproofed detector that has been dunked in fresh water, I've frequently heard of opening the box and turning on the hair dryer to dry it out ............ a procedure of which I am very leary. If I were faced with the problem my choice would be to soak up the visible moisture with medical cotton and let it it dry naturally. To speed up the process there are small cans of pressurized clean, dry nitrogen available at photo shops for cleaning lenses that could be used to clear moisture and dirt from the crevices.
As for dunking in salt water that renders the detector useless, it's logical for a manufacturer to replace the entire circuit board as the least costly and reliable approach. However, if I were faced with that problem and the inevitability of a bill running into the hundreds, in desperation I would first try flushing with distilled or de-ionized water and proceeding as with one dunked in fresh water.
Chet
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Been there done that...Fisher advises not to spray with anything as it may or may not interfer with the units operation although it may speed up drying. As far as hair dryers excessive heat can also do the same..Actually hunting in a light rain had my unit malfunction, turned it off and after a week of drying off was sent to Fisher. In the trip it dried completely. Fisher was nice enough to clean and tune for me. Yep one of the rubbers was crimped. I still remember the words its weatherproof not waterproof so
all be advised hunting in a driving rain or wading in saltwater buy a CZ20 lest you find what abuse consists of. In any case you better have a backup whether covered or not as I believe its about a month turnover.
all be advised hunting in a driving rain or wading in saltwater buy a CZ20 lest you find what abuse consists of. In any case you better have a backup whether covered or not as I believe its about a month turnover.
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Anonymous
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............ a "Defect in materials or workmanship" and therefore is the responsibility of Fisher. The seals are not accessible to the end user unless he took it apart in violation of the warranty. Although you may have had a problem with your CZ 7A Pro, I'm sure such defects are few and far between. If on the other hand, you had a submersible CZ 20 and the battery compartment seals leaked ........that would be debatable between Fisher and the end user.
As for my suggestions about handling a dunked detector, the very act of opening it up could reasonably be construed as a violation of the warranty. However, if you had a CZ 5, 3 or any other land detector other than a CZ 7 or 70 with a high probability of incurring the cost of a new mother board, I would first proceed as explained above. If you're going to incur the high cost of a new mother board then whether or not you opened it up after being dunked becomes irrelevalent.
Chet
PS: I purchased and registered my then new CZ years before the lifetime warranty went into effect. The only time I sent it in for repair was to correct a "default to preset" problem which happened with several digital CZs of that era. It was repaired and returned to me at no cost regardless of warranty status.
GOOD company, GOOD product and GOOD people!
As for my suggestions about handling a dunked detector, the very act of opening it up could reasonably be construed as a violation of the warranty. However, if you had a CZ 5, 3 or any other land detector other than a CZ 7 or 70 with a high probability of incurring the cost of a new mother board, I would first proceed as explained above. If you're going to incur the high cost of a new mother board then whether or not you opened it up after being dunked becomes irrelevalent.
Chet
PS: I purchased and registered my then new CZ years before the lifetime warranty went into effect. The only time I sent it in for repair was to correct a "default to preset" problem which happened with several digital CZs of that era. It was repaired and returned to me at no cost regardless of warranty status.
GOOD company, GOOD product and GOOD people!
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Anonymous
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Well, it appears the choice is clear-once again experience wins out over 'field tests'-thanks guys
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Anonymous
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For one thing if I'm going to be hunting at a salt water beach...it's my CZ-20....thats what it was made for...if you hunt a salt water beach with a non-water machine..in my opinion your just asking for trouble...salt air = copper corrosion...and that very fine wind blown sand will find it's way inside eventually..no matter what you do....if you want to drop or set a $600.00+ machine down in salt water and hope a hairdryer or a natural drying is going to make it just fine..your a better man then I <img src="/metal/html/wink.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
">.
As far as land hunting...I never was quite able to grasp the big deal of having just a weather proof detector <img src="/metal/html/confused.gif" border=0 width=15 height=22 alt=":?"> ...if it start rainings...throw a saran elastic cover over it....if it's a pouring rain..I don't know what your doing out in it anyway <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="">
As for the 3D.....I will only say this...I had a CZ-7a Pro..used the XS for a couple of years...and my good fines are twice what they were with either of them using the 3D...and I dig less nails and less junk and less digging overall...I say go for the CZ-70....the less people who use a CZ-3D the better I like it. <img src="/metal/html/lol.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":lol">
What ever you deciede..good hunting my friend.
">.As far as land hunting...I never was quite able to grasp the big deal of having just a weather proof detector <img src="/metal/html/confused.gif" border=0 width=15 height=22 alt=":?"> ...if it start rainings...throw a saran elastic cover over it....if it's a pouring rain..I don't know what your doing out in it anyway <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
">As for the 3D.....I will only say this...I had a CZ-7a Pro..used the XS for a couple of years...and my good fines are twice what they were with either of them using the 3D...and I dig less nails and less junk and less digging overall...I say go for the CZ-70....the less people who use a CZ-3D the better I like it. <img src="/metal/html/lol.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt=":lol">
What ever you deciede..good hunting my friend.
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Anonymous
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I think we discussed this in a reasonable fashion, Heck I respect Chet's opinions and nice to throw these things around. Surely a weather resitant CZ is not waterproof by any means but does offer much more protection than one that is not.I hope we have learned not to spray with anything that may speedup the drying process and use good judgement hunting in inclement conditions or conditions that may put the unit at risk. One wonders if Fisher can tell if a box was opened by unauthorized individual as that would surely throw a new light on the situation. As far as myself I don't wish to test out the units degree of protection or for that matter the warranty provisions as I have been there done that and a month or so with ones favorite detector is not worth the risk. We all know of Fishers excellent service after we purchase as that is a given..
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Anonymous
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You seem to have taken issue with my suggestion about using canned nitrogen on the circuit boards without explaining specifically why.
While it would be helpful to pass warm moving air over a wet circuit board to dry it out, I would be leary about using a hair dryer as the heat may damage the circuit components. Furthermore, it's been many years since I've had the need for a hair dryer around here! <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="">
The little cans of nitrogen are non-combustible, non-corrosive and seem to neutralize the static charge of dust accumulating on camera lenses and to me suggest a way to rapidly dry out the circuit board before corrosion sets in. (There also good to clean out the dust on your keyboard.)
Personally, I can't think of any potential negative consequences of using it on circuit boards.
While it would be helpful to pass warm moving air over a wet circuit board to dry it out, I would be leary about using a hair dryer as the heat may damage the circuit components. Furthermore, it's been many years since I've had the need for a hair dryer around here! <img src="/metal/html/smile.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
">The little cans of nitrogen are non-combustible, non-corrosive and seem to neutralize the static charge of dust accumulating on camera lenses and to me suggest a way to rapidly dry out the circuit board before corrosion sets in. (There also good to clean out the dust on your keyboard.)
Personally, I can't think of any potential negative consequences of using it on circuit boards.
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Anonymous
Guest
I'll have to agree with your general opinions. but with reservations. I've used a CZ 7A Pro on the nearby beaches for years without the problems you point out ........... including the time I was swamped, knocked down, and dragged out by a rogue wave.
The majority of detectorists I meet on the beach are casual detectorists working the dry sand on weekends and other "off times" with their general purpose detectors and are oblivious to both the short and long-term effects of sand, salt air and salt spray.
While you may an enthusiast of a fully submersible detector, I'm not. For various reasons the CZ 20 and competitive detectors are simply not popular on our ocean beaches. In MY application the CZ 7A Pro fits the bill nicely. It's been in use for years and is sealed well enough to exclude the elements in the beach, parks and schools environment. The 20 may be great for underwater detecting but it is cumbersome and lacks the utility of my 7A Pro when out of the water.
I have used my detector in light, but not pouring rain for good reason. In my parts rain is rare and a few days of it causes cabin fever. I'd rather be out detecting a park in the rain with my CZ. I should point out that our light rain is far different than the heavy thunderstorms you have back east.
I have no need for a Saran elastic cover or any other after-market protection with my CZ. It's many years old and doesn't show any signs of rust or corrosion.
The moral is use what you have and need in your application.
Chet
The majority of detectorists I meet on the beach are casual detectorists working the dry sand on weekends and other "off times" with their general purpose detectors and are oblivious to both the short and long-term effects of sand, salt air and salt spray.
While you may an enthusiast of a fully submersible detector, I'm not. For various reasons the CZ 20 and competitive detectors are simply not popular on our ocean beaches. In MY application the CZ 7A Pro fits the bill nicely. It's been in use for years and is sealed well enough to exclude the elements in the beach, parks and schools environment. The 20 may be great for underwater detecting but it is cumbersome and lacks the utility of my 7A Pro when out of the water.
I have used my detector in light, but not pouring rain for good reason. In my parts rain is rare and a few days of it causes cabin fever. I'd rather be out detecting a park in the rain with my CZ. I should point out that our light rain is far different than the heavy thunderstorms you have back east.
I have no need for a Saran elastic cover or any other after-market protection with my CZ. It's many years old and doesn't show any signs of rust or corrosion.
The moral is use what you have and need in your application.
Chet
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Anonymous
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and I agree...use whatever you like...it's your dime. <img src="/metal/html/please.gif" border=0 width=29 height=15 alt="lease">
lease">
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Anonymous
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Fisher advised me not to use anything but let it dry out as many coat the components and interfer with proper operation. Also I don't feel Fisher would be too happy if untrained individuals took their unit apart, remember that crimped rubber and its only one aspect as damage to the board or components is also a possibility. Your CZ7A pro is a fine unit for the type of hunting you do but watch out for those rogue waves, a stumble, drop, or some awful mean rainstorms that are possible in your enviroment. I wish more would have a sensible discussion from time to time as my dad once said two heads are better than one even if they are cabbage heads at least on my part.
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Anonymous
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I think you missed the point in my post "It probably would!" in response to your post pointing out that any disassembly could be construed as a violation of the warranty.
I was addressing the circumstance where one had a non-submersible detector that was dunked into the water, which in itself could be interpreted as an "abuse" on a par with accidently driving your car over the detector that would invalidate a warranty.
Faced with the inevitability of an expensive repair in replacing the mother board, some detectorists open the box and attempt to dry it out with a hair drier, a practice which I find questionable, but is a logical approach to some as the longer the water remains the greater the potential for damage. My alternate suggestion was to speed up the drying process by using cans of compressed nitrogen .......
a major component of the air we breath but lacking the corrosive effect of oxygen. Perhaps compressed air could also be used but one could be trading one demon for another with electronic equipment.
I am quite fortunate in that local weather conditions allow for detecting or BBQing virtually every day. Even light rain is rare in this period of drought and it's been years since I've experienced a thunderstorm. It is even rarer to be trapped by a rogue wave. <img src="/metal/html/frown.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="">
Chet
I was addressing the circumstance where one had a non-submersible detector that was dunked into the water, which in itself could be interpreted as an "abuse" on a par with accidently driving your car over the detector that would invalidate a warranty.
Faced with the inevitability of an expensive repair in replacing the mother board, some detectorists open the box and attempt to dry it out with a hair drier, a practice which I find questionable, but is a logical approach to some as the longer the water remains the greater the potential for damage. My alternate suggestion was to speed up the drying process by using cans of compressed nitrogen .......
a major component of the air we breath but lacking the corrosive effect of oxygen. Perhaps compressed air could also be used but one could be trading one demon for another with electronic equipment.
I am quite fortunate in that local weather conditions allow for detecting or BBQing virtually every day. Even light rain is rare in this period of drought and it's been years since I've experienced a thunderstorm. It is even rarer to be trapped by a rogue wave. <img src="/metal/html/frown.gif" border=0 width=15 height=15 alt="
">Chet
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