Uncle Willy
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Yeah it ain't rocket science - it's a hobby. 
Bill
Bill
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Convince me to upgrade
- Thread starter Goldburn
- Start date
liltracs said:
It never did impress me, I did spend a lot of time with it and never got to like it. (had it over one year)
Got a DFX a few months ago and have had an 1000% (minimum) increase in finds.
I mainly look for coins in all kinds of ages. So disc is more important then depth for me the disc of the GTI did not do any good for me except for the Sizing.
All manufactures say that they have the best machines, they still want to sell. I'd be skeptical of what the hype says.
I did compare the DFX and the GTI 2500 HERE
I don't want to be mean but to me after having had the DFX for about 3 to 4 months I'd consider the GTI to be an newbie detector very similar to the Ace series. So my tips look around on more brands also.
I do like the features of the DFX as well. I'm a techy kind of guy, so the custom programming is no obstacle.
Honestly, I wish I had the money to buy them both (DFX300 and the 2500) and try them both.
The one thing I did not see mentioned in the specs of the DFX is a pinpointing feature, as the Garrett machines have.
Honestly, I wish I had the money to buy them both (DFX300 and the 2500) and try them both.
The one thing I did not see mentioned in the specs of the DFX is a pinpointing feature, as the Garrett machines have.
Mick in Dubbo
New member
Telling beer cans from coins is quite easy with the Ace. the secret is to listen to how the pinpoint fades on these targets. With a coin, the signal will have a rapid fade where as a can at depth will seem to hang to to the signal for ages. If any target is in the top 2 inches, then it is too close to the coil for this to work. What you can do here though, is to trace around the target with the inner toe (with pinpoint button engaged). John gave you some excellent information about the pull tabs as well. just to add to it, although I hunt for coins of a different currency; what I have noticed with the pull tabs, is that they tend to jump around more than a coin will on the meter. If you get one that locks in on a segment, then you can follow John advice.
Mick Evans.
Mick Evans.
Goldburn said:
It's pinpointing is right on my friend. It has a trigger just behind the display.
Depth readings are always right on when he's not confused by a large/small target. (this happens to both)
I would not recommend the DFX300 as the 12" coil is often not practical as a allround coil, better get the standard coil or with a DD coil.
The pinpointing with the Garrett (GTI 2500) is more exact but the VCO feature of the DFX makes up for this.
Also by pinpointing the DFX has it's own little sizing feature; If you do an "+" over the target and slowly listen to how "long" the tone is you can get a good idea of the size. (I can describe this better if you want)
Pull tabs will drag longer on the tone in one way but shorter on the other. Beer cans will drag very long on all directions and they will show up on the signagraph as aluminum very often.
While bottle caps do often show up as a copper nickel alloy coin but pinpointing with DC phase will help you here.
DC phase gives you a VDI while pinpointing, often a coin will be 50+ a bottle cap will be around 40's.
This pinpointing thing can tell there difference directly between a ring and a beer can.
Another thing is when using VCO (gives a high tone when directly over target) and doing this "pinpointing sizing thingie" some things will drop dead, directly these are often worth digging!
The discrimination of the DFX is highly sophisticated and excellent for coin shooting, which is what I mostly do.
Ask me, test me of what I know of the DFX features and I might be able to help with your choice. (or what ever)
I've used both much. (GTI 2500 and DFX)
Also note I hunt in Sweden, we hardly have the same coin types but I still can help you.
Sounds like you had a defective one or maybe it was too complicated for you. I live 8 miles from where Nautilus detectors are built. Nautilus has always been a very reliable deep seeking machine. Ive had no problems searching thier hunted out spots with my 2500 finding all sorts of relics and coinss A professional detector and far from a toy. A car is a car. You can drive them all. Theres a big difference in a ford Ranger and a king cab F350 fully loaded.
Naw I don't think mine was defective (it was tested by the seller before I got it) nor to advanced I could simply not make a difference between a nail and a copper coin the discrimination was not suited for my kind of hunting. (coin shooting)
As I said our coins here are different from yours and this might make a difference.
I think the GTI is more of a relic machine where you dig most everything.
24 notches does not make good for representing like 100+ coins and a lot of different trash 191 VDI numbers does represent it way better.
Hunted out spots are hard to come by here, most are virgin ground but I beat my pal who has the GTI every time out.
This could be pure luck or it simply has the advantage over the GTI here in Sweden.
I must say the GTI is a deep detector but what does it help me when I can't tell a nail from a coin?
It might be professional MD but so is the DFX.
I don't know cars but I know the machines I've owned and I must say I prefer to DFX much over the GTI because of the disc.
Depth is a winning factor on the GTI as is sizing and exact pinpointing.
But thats it, the DFX has better disc, audio (I love Tone ID), more features, better balance and it has more coils available oh and it's more adjustable to your sites.
At least for me depth is not everything there is sooo much more you could include in this equation.
A car is a car all right but the SAAB 900 is not near as good in terrain as a Humvee is.
Regards,
Eu
As I said our coins here are different from yours and this might make a difference.
I think the GTI is more of a relic machine where you dig most everything.
24 notches does not make good for representing like 100+ coins and a lot of different trash 191 VDI numbers does represent it way better.
Hunted out spots are hard to come by here, most are virgin ground but I beat my pal who has the GTI every time out.
This could be pure luck or it simply has the advantage over the GTI here in Sweden.
I must say the GTI is a deep detector but what does it help me when I can't tell a nail from a coin?
It might be professional MD but so is the DFX.
I don't know cars but I know the machines I've owned and I must say I prefer to DFX much over the GTI because of the disc.
Depth is a winning factor on the GTI as is sizing and exact pinpointing.
But thats it, the DFX has better disc, audio (I love Tone ID), more features, better balance and it has more coils available oh and it's more adjustable to your sites.
At least for me depth is not everything there is sooo much more you could include in this equation.
A car is a car all right but the SAAB 900 is not near as good in terrain as a Humvee is.
Regards,
Eu
EU, I really like both machines, and wish I could discriminate aluminum lifttabs and pull tabs better with the DFX. Can you give more info on what you do to distinguish between a tab and a nickel (VDI 1? Pull tabs go from 16 to mid 30s, which goes both under and over a U.S. nickel, so I can't tell the difference. Doesn't the DC measure the difference between the VDI of the ground and the target, or does it represent the VDI of the target? Thanks.
? Pull tabs go from 16 to mid 30s, which goes both under and over a U.S. nickel, so I can't tell the difference. Doesn't the DC measure the difference between the VDI of the ground and the target, or does it represent the VDI of the target? Thanks.Hello Reggie. I am in Sweden and don't have any US nickels available but I can tell you how our nickel based coins react in comparison to the pull tab.
Here are a few observations:
1. When pinpointing and having VCO get on to the middle of the coin(or target) and the slowly do so with an "+" pattern over it.
For coins the VCO tone will drop quickly when you're over the corner of the target.
Pull tabs often will "drag" on one side as it is not round as a coin.
2. Often for me the nickel coin will register slightly to the left of the "0"(zero, the middle) on the signagraph or it does spread all around 0.(zero)
The DC Phase measures the VDI of what ever is under the coil, you can even use it to guess ground mineralization.
Regards,
Eu
Here are a few observations:
1. When pinpointing and having VCO get on to the middle of the coin(or target) and the slowly do so with an "+" pattern over it.
For coins the VCO tone will drop quickly when you're over the corner of the target.
Pull tabs often will "drag" on one side as it is not round as a coin.
2. Often for me the nickel coin will register slightly to the left of the "0"(zero, the middle) on the signagraph or it does spread all around 0.(zero)
The DC Phase measures the VDI of what ever is under the coil, you can even use it to guess ground mineralization.
Regards,
Eu