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D.T.P. Brace for Garrett AT Series head units

B

BLStone68

New member
I just got my AT Max today :)
I don't mean this post to be an ad or promotion for these products. Just wanted people thoughts on them.

When I was doing research on the AT series, one of the questions I seen on the AT Max was, did Garrett improve the head unit mount / mounting system.
I guess some people have had their head units come off.

So my questions are,
Is this really an issue?
And do AT owners think this D.T.P Brace would be a good investment to protect the head unit?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/62HEKYYSS/d-t-p-brace-two-piece-set-for-garrett-at-max-at

In the video below he explains why he thinks the head units can come off an how this brace can strengthen it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlMJ-sgwQKA

Facebook link below has pictures :)
https://www.facebook.com/DTP74070/posts/1326727570771913

The D.T.P. Brace is from Dan's Treasure Products, the same man who makes the Fold-and-Go for the AT series.
I'm thinking I might have to get one of these too :laugh:

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?65,2393915,2393915#msg-2393915

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGgDjNmGXec[/video]
 
I have never seen that before? And I have never had my head break off my upper stem. It looks interesting though. I guess it kind of depends on what your hunting style is?
 
Quite frankly, I don't recall the head breaking off ever being a mentioned problem. I know after literally hundreds of hours of hunting time with mine A T Pro I have need had that problem. HH jim tn
 
kajunman said:
My buddy invented these. They're sold through Metal Detecting Stuff

AT series bracket
Click to expand...

This is the one I found to fit the best. Have one on my Pro and MAX
 
The control box can break off by flexing the shaft. This typically happens when someone uses the detector to help them get off the ground, pressing down on the shaft while getting up. The AT is attached by two screws through the rod into the plastic. The AT Support bracket adds additional support by using 6 points of contact - the initial two screws and the four on the speaker cover. no modification is necessary. Out of warranty repair costs $85 to replace the control case, so a $20 item can fix it without sending it in or provide more support to keep it from happening in the first place.

Wayne
 
I went with the D.T.P. Brace.
Now I am new to this and this is just my opinion :unsure:

But watching the video on the D.T.P. Brace when he explains how the stem doesn't make very good contact where it sits on the control box. (starts around 4:17 in video)
He explains the gaps between the stem and the seating area on the control box, and how the steam might want to roll.
His brace is designed to support that area and fill them gaps taking any pressure off the two plastic post that the two support screws screw into.
The way the brace wraps completely around the stem should help absorbed any pressure applied to the stem and the plastic post.

I'm not trying to put the AT Support bracket down or anything, but it doesn't seem to fix that problem of the stem not seating very good on the control box seating area.
Plus my Max is my brand new baby and I'm not real comfortable using the speaker screws like that. :lol:

One thing I do think of the AT Support Bracket is if a person already broke their post off, this could be use as a quick and less expensive fix. :)
 
Almost 3 years ago. The head broke off my At Pro. This was after years & a couple thousand targets. (A year) Also housing got cracked where you button up the batteries. So called and sent it to Garrett. You wanna know what Garrett did ? Replaced the whole housing. Replaced a couple gizmos inside, and retuned it. $50. Runs as good as or better than when I bought it. Couple of years now and the Pro still waterproof & humming along. $50 vs cost of new unit. No brainer.
 
Hey guys mine broke in the spring, laid it down and picked back up and head fell right off. I have worked mine a lot so bound to happen, I put bigger screws in and drilled a hole through the fins on housing and put a strong zip ty on and around shaft for extra peace of mind.
 
In 32 years of detecting with dozens of people In the field or competitions, I have never seen a control unit break off. I love a better mouse trap or left-handed monkey wrench as much as anyone but our hobby is perfect for tinkering with everything. Hundreds of scoops shovels pouches etc. I can't see me using my AT pro as a crutch or a cane. I do however lean on my $20 short shovel to get up. Peace
 
rferrari said:
In 32 years of detecting with dozens of people In the field or competitions, I have never seen a control unit break off. I love a better mouse trap or left-handed monkey wrench as much as anyone but our hobby is perfect for tinkering with everything. Hundreds of scoops shovels pouches etc. I can't see me using my AT pro as a crutch or a cane. I do however lean on my $20 short shovel to get up. Peace
Click to expand...

I've had the control box break off two different AT Pros after multiple years of use. Others have obviously had it happen to. I've never seen a control box break off either...except for the AT. I have no connection to the guy who sells the DTP Brace, but it seems like it effectively corrects an issue.
 
In 32 years of detecting with dozens of people In the field or competitions, I have never seen a control unit break off. I love a better mouse trap or left-handed monkey wrench as much as anyone but our hobby is perfect for tinkering with everything. Hundreds of scoops shovels pouches etc. I can't see me using my AT pro as a crutch or a cane. I do however lean on my $20 short shovel to get up. Peace
 
I have always been concerned about any of my Garrett detectors’s turning over when I placed them on the ground. I don’t want the control boxes damaged by rocks and whatever else happens to be there. So I made the stands as shown in the picture. I am right handed so the stand on the right side of the detector gets the most use and the one on the left becomes a stand and a handle. These are placed as close to the detector’s balance point as allowed by the holes in the stem and are screwed together so they can be moved easily. When my hands are muddy the handle keeps the mud off the stem and control box. The right side stand is made from a carbon arrow shaft and left handle/stand is from thin walled aluminum tubing covered with heat shrink tubing. Aluminum fittings were machined for each end of the stands and they screw together at the center. These have worked out well in protecting control boxes from damage. I have never broken a control box off a stem.
 
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