Experimental Digger #1

[Md Epidemic]

Hi Barker thnks for the interest. The is an experiment want to see how the magnet wiil work. I don't have many long pieces to mke
a long solid one but am looking a lot was scraped if i only knew.

Don't know when it will be finished but here are some pix a friend took for me. It is .200 thick x 11/2 x 6 3/4 M-2 (high speed steel)
about 15 hours so far.Any suggestion for a handle? must be welded on to bab i'm not a good welder
will be a burr to sharpen too.

Epi-demic

 

[JOHNMARKHAM]

wow looks great so far....should do very well..
hh
john

 

[BARKER]

HI Epi; That is one great blade.Constructive Criticism: Put a few more teeth on the blade up to where the blade turns toward to the point a little more.After that you can taper the edges of the blade sides and sharpen the point up to the curve.Rest is to now center mount the blade into the hilt and or handle.Make the hilt wide enough for your hand on both sides so your hand does not even have the remotest chance of slipping onto the blade.You don't want to do that for sure.Only other pointer is to put the hammer head onto the end of the handle so you can break things open.Overall when your done you could can cut through "ANY" tree root or branch and never even blink.Thats the idea here.There is nothing more frustrating than spending a lot of extra time just trying to get through some stupid tree root or branch to get to your target.The length of the blade ensures you don't have to make 20 scoops to get at a 10" deep target.Think of how much digging time you'll save.Also if an animal is stupid enough to come at you you can smile because your looking at your dinner.!!!! Anyway, great job so far. keep it up. Can hardly wait to see the finished product.PEACE:RONB

 

[BARKER]

Hi Epi; Sorry for the repost.You do want to put a thin "blood groove" channel in the center of the blade as well.Taper the teeth edges and sharpen the point. OK I hope this helps. I had one "exactly" like this one abut 10 yeas ago but it got stolen.That sucker would cut through "anything" and smile ok. Until l ater; PEACE:RONB

 

[Md Epidemic]

Ron, your saying not to sharpen the sides of blade where teeth are? it is a little under 1/4 in thick.
Epi

 

[BARKER]

Hi Epi; No Please "DO" sharpen them but not razor sharp.Because if the teeth are to sharp they will dull and wear away.I was suggesting to taper the edge where the teeth are and make the point sharp.Imagine a digging trowel with teeth on both sides.If you sharpen the teeth like they are on a trowel you "should have no problems with the wear and tear.The point will mostly sharpen itself due to constant digging and prying ok. At 1/4 inch thick you can cut down Redwoods, Rhino, Mack Trucks etc.. Just kidding.That knife/digger will last you forever which is the idea overall.Cut through anything you encounter while digging anywhere and it lasts eternal.ok. I hope this helps. PEACE:RONB
PS: You could call it the Frankenknife.

 

[silversmith]

You don't need to "weld" a handle to it. "Braze" a handle to it. Brazing is much easier and will take a lot of abuse. You can learn to braze quickly. It takes time to learn to weld as well. A poor welder will make a project brittle. It'll need to be re-tempered. You don't get the project hot enough to affect it's temper with brass. Even though I have a nice DC stick welder, I prefer to braze much of my work.
Just my experience.

 

[Md Epidemic]

i have a friend who is a welder, maybe i can get him to weld or braze it.I know i will mess it up i use tig but only weld once or twice a year.
thanks for the advice.

Epi