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Explorer SE Failure to Switch On Fix.


New member
Metal Detector Model = Minelab Explorer SE .
Fault = The Detector intermittently will not switch on or will not switch on at all.
Cure = Replace Electrolytic Capacitor C605 on the power supply board.
This power supply board is a small plug in circuit board inside the detector , it is very easy to remove.
The capacitor is a 2200 Uf Electrolytic , Voltage rating is 16 volts and is a 105 degrees type.
So if cleaning your battery connectors fails to get your dead SE working try replacing this capacitor.


New member
I have not opened an Explorer 2 up , so i can't say for sure. I would have thought they have similar power boards , it takes a few minutes to open the detector control box.
The Capacitor that fails is a known not so good quality brand capacitor made by Samwha. The Capacitor is from the WB Series of Samwha Capacitors which had a high failure rate.


New member
The Se Pro will have a similar power board to the SE . I would guess many of the faults on the these detectors are on the power board.


New member
Reference.....Here are pics of the board from an Explorer II


New member
That big capacitor over to the top right near the white connector is a prime suspect if your machine powers off on its own , fails to starts or goes "cuckoo" in any way shape or form ... I would not rule out any other of the caps on the same board either..


Tony, as an example , here's a link to one of the many equivalent ones available on line from ebay usa.

The capacitor that's needs to be replaced needs to be carefully removed, usually done by de-soldering it from the board then soldering in the new one.
In some instances this capacitor and other components, have also been bound to the pcb with hot glue , so you may need to firstly melt/ remove the hot glue from the capacitor.

David Di


New member
I would like to add some info to this thread. This is one of the more informative threads about Explorer SE fix. My ESE(Explorer SE) had a failure to switch on. It would make a quick click sound, and slight screen flash when the power button was pressed. I ordered the Caps listed above assuming that would be my problem. Once I opened the ESE up I figured I would wiggle the Cap and see if its a connection problem or bad Cap. Upon wiggling stuff I noticed the connection problem was between the boards. Holding the circuit boards tighter would allow the ESE to power up. I separated the boards and applied OxGuard to the contacts that join the board layers. The contacts are rows of small gold pins, visible in some of the pic above.
Good luck with your ESE fixes.