F75 to fast for me.

[Flintstone]

I have a new F75 with the gold rod, and it is so fast that I can,t lock on one target. Are they really that fast or is mine not right? This was a demo that was never out side. I can,t use it. If someone is good with a F75 and can let me know about it. I have had it about a year and have tried it three times. Any help? thanks flintstone

 

[REVIER]

Locking on to targets has more to do with learning to manipulate the coil correctly and moving it a speed where you can notice targets than the speed of the processors.
I had thousands of hours using an F2 and I could get it to stabilize over most good targets easily with no more than a 1-2 or 1-3 number jump every time.
When I graduated to the F70 I couldn't do that at all, the number range I had was more like 8-10.
With some time and practice I managed to slowly cut down that target range to only a few numbers again.
The F70/F75/T2 and Patriot units are all built on the same platform and are all some of the most powerful detectors out there...even on factory settings they are way overpowered and fast.
However they can be tamed, it just takes practice and patience.

 

[Flintstone]

Thanks REVIER, do you mean to just slow my sweep speed way down, go really slow. There must be tons of trash or something where I detect, the 75 never stops making VDI's.

 

[MI-AuAg]

Hello Flintstone,

If I understand your post correctly, the machine you have is a demo model?

If it's a demo model, I'm sure the dealer went through a whole bunch of settings to demonstrate it to potential buyers. That can sometimes gum up things within the processor. The first thing I would recommend is to do a factory reset which will clear all settings and return it to factory default settings. The procedure is on page 10 of the manual.

Once it has been reset, I would use it in dE (Default Process), not FA, or JE which are much more sensative in one, and very fast audio response in the other. The dE process is the smoothest to use, yet very sensative. Revier is certainly correct in pointing out the power of these machines! They will pick up tiny bits of foil and trash so you have to kind of be aware of that possibility. Make sure you have a good ground balance and the sensitivity isn't set too high. If you're getting a good tone ID, and you go to pinpoint you should be able to get the ID numbers to steady to a small jump up or down of only one or two numbers, especially if your target confidence meter is showing high bars.

I hope it works out for you!

 

[Flintstone]

Thanks AU-AG, I will try the reset today and see if that helps. I can tell this detector was never out side ,just the two or three times I tried it. I have been thinking about sending it back to Fisher, but if it just needs recalibrated then I can do that.I have the 11" coil and the 5" coil new MineLab bag, headphone rechargeable batterys. Hope I can get to use it, If not someone will get a good deal. Thanks for help, Dean

 

[fjs440]

I did a reset on a used F70 and have not stopped going ever since. The previous owner gave up on it. (Guess he did not read the manual.) I got it at a wonderful price and I see no need to upgrade. Your F75 is the same great type of machine. Start with the reset and build your experience with it. No need to rush.

You may hear little chirps and strange sounds, but then your heart stops when it really crosses something good. I dug for many stupid sounds hoping they were good, but you soon learn what it is trying to tell you. You posses one helluva great machine. Learn what it is trying to tell you. It takes time. Slowly play with the discrimination, sensitivity and tones. Do not rush through them. You will get to know your machine and you will love it.

Have a wonderful time.

 

[Piedmontartifacts]

My f75 went haywire after an overload once but a reset fixed it.

 

[Flintstone]

Thanks 440, I didn't get a manual when I got my detector, or the box it came in. I got a good deal on it with two coils bag and headphone, rechargeable batterys, a box full of things but no manual or box. I guss that is what you get when you buy a demo modal . thanks

 

[fjs440]

No problem with what you got for the money. You can download the manual for free. Print the manual if it is easier for you to read.

Read the manual, then reread it, and do it again. Learn what the F75 is all about. The more you know about the F75, the faster you will learn the machine, but it will still take a while. DO NOT rush it.

This forum has been a life saver for me. Search for entries about the F70 and F75. I learn from both even though I have the F70. They are twins, but each is different, just like the twin kids I have.

 

[jim tn]

I've had a F 75 since they first came out some 12 or so years ago now. In fact, I am on my 3rd one, and I can only re-iterate whats already been mentioned, start out with it a little bit tame, run it in the factory pre set modes for a few hunts until you get a feel for it. Do do the factory re-set just to make sure it gets in the pre set modes. Before each hunt, make sure you aren't experiencing any emi and select the quietest frequency for optimum results. I personally never use any disc., but just starting out using some will cut down on some of the chirps and grunts. A sensitivity setting of 60 is plenty just starting and is still plenty deep. There really is no reason your F 75 should bounce around numbers wise and not lock on a target. If it does, it needs a check up by Fisher. It is a great detector and the later versions typically run very quite.......but they do alert one to every target under the coil....Which, is good. Good luck! HH jim tn

 

[REVIER]

Thanks REVIER, do you mean to just slow my sweep speed way down, go really slow. There must be tons of trash or something where I detect, the 75 never stops making VDI's.

These units actually can be used with a fast sweep, they ID better that way on deeper targets...sometimes.
Still, when you are new with one if these you really need a bit of time to get used to the speed and find that speed where you actually can notice the better targets.
When yours swings over good targets it will notice and tell you but if is in an area with a ton of other trash the indicators might be real quick and get lost in the shuffle.
Going slow, really slow, helps at first and as you get more experience you can pick up the speed a bit.
Practice always makes perfect.

If you happen to have gotten a smaller sniper coil in that package put that on and forget about any bigger ones for awhile, it is much easier to learn all this with a coil that has a smaller footprint.

Sometimes, if you mostly hunt areas like I do with bad mineralized dirt, extreme trash and massive amounts of extra iron, going slow can find you more than faster speeds.
I have tons of experience using mine in all metal, disc on 1 and disc set at 0.
Over the years I have trained my brain, ears and eyes to process all info and signals south on the screen and audio extremely fast, I have hunted with others that can't figure out how I can make sense of anything in the huge amount of data hitting me at all times.
Despite that I still need to move that coil at a crawl in areas that are dense with target both good and bad...mostly bad.

Here are a couple of vids showing me hunting a typical area with the 11"DD coil.
Forget what I am digging, just watch how I am moving around this site.
The disc is at 0, this is not a setting a newbie should use until they get a handle on how fast those VDI's come and go.
Notice how many iron numbers I get and how fast they come and go, how many trash and false signals and how jumpy everything is and how fast I am moving that coil.
Most of those signals you see are not false, there is just that much junk in my dirt around here.
As slow as I am moving I still can pass by better signals if I am not careful, if I do notice one I stop and examine it better with short, quick side to side sweeps to try to zero in on the most stable numbers possible.
Again, learning to hunt in sites like this at low or no disc took time and practice...but learning to hunt with this tool in much better, cleaner sites did too, at first.
You just need a bit more than you have now.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=sejzlCo9rsY


https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=UuyIs67n32A


https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=RIvCaOGTgEo


I have read post from those that complain how trashy the sites they hunt are, how it is such a drag to hunt areas where they get trash signals all the time...like every foot or so.
I just laugh and laugh when I read them.

 

[Flintstone]

YES REVIER, that is what I am talking about. I have hunted this park before with a detector and knot out most junk, I was thinking something was wrong with the F75 when it was beeping all the time. I have very bad hearing with aids in each ear, in your video I can't tell any deference in the tones. Would it be better to hunt in more tones? Now I know there is nothing wrong with my detector, I will try it real slow. Thanks so much. flintstone

 

[REVIER]

YES REVIER, that is what I am talking about. I have hunted this park before with a detector and knot out most junk, I was thinking something was wrong with the F75 when it was beeping all the time. I have very bad hearing with aids in each ear, in your video I can't tell any deference in the tones. Would it be better to hunt in more tones? Now I know there is nothing wrong with my detector, I will try it real slow. Thanks so much. flintstone

I could probably do pretty well if I covered up the screen and just listened to the tones, many actually hunt that way pretty much by audio only all the time.
Conversely, I could probably still do pretty good turning the volume down to 0 and just watch the screen closely but that takes some experience to do it that way efficiently.
I prefer to use all the data from both, and I take everything I see and hear with a grain of salt because strange things can happen out there.
It sounds like in the field you can hear some tones which is good, if your digging decision data is more weighted to the visual clues on the screen than in my mind it is even more important to move slow, our reaction time visually is pretty fast but still a tiny bit slower than our audio reactions.
Just a theory but I have been rocked back on my heels a few times triggered just by a single tone using a few different detectors.

As far as tones it is always a personal preference, what one person loves can be indecipherable to another, not to mention there is the enjoyment factor.
If you don't enjoy hunting using one specific tone choice don't use it no matter how much or how well it might find treasure for another hunter.
All the tone choices plus all metal will react to all targets as will the screen info, the interface you choose to acquire and interpret the data you receive is your choice that can be found by experiencing all of them for a decent amount of time.
Again with practice, I have used a few that became favorites that I did not enjoy at all when I first tried them.

I have used and practiced with them all, over the years I have changed.
At first I used 4H all the time, it was familiar because I used the F2 with 4 similar tones for many, many hours.
The 3H and 4H choices that turn nickel signals to high tones is just genius, (gold is my favorite target to find), I believe most of us react to and notice higher tones better than lower ones.

1F and 2F have their advantages depending on site conditions and iron infestation.
One tone, mono, is a big favorite to me, listening to one single tone is way less mentally fatigueing than listening to more than one or the constant up and down modulation of some of the others especially if you hunt in sites with a bazillion targets like in those vids.
That can tire you out quick.

On the other hand for awhile I have been into DP tones despite the modulation.
Why...99 tones differentiated by conductivity, more precise data on each target that become clearer the more you experience it.
The biggest reason is because out of all the tone choices DP is the only one actually tied directly into what is happening on the screen.
All the others are fast and the extremely tiny lag time is all but indecipherable to human senses but it is there never the less.

Basically don't worry about the tones, it is more important to learn how to acquire targets and zero in on them with the best and most stable signal you can get.
Once you learn to do that you can start trying all the tone choices and eventually you will find what suits you the best.

 

[doc holiday232]

Revier, thanks for your excellent info---the videos were really eye opening.

 

[REVIER]

Revier, thanks for your excellent info---the videos were really eye opening.

Anytime...a picture, or a vid, is worth a thousand words sometimes.

If you liked those vids here is one of me hunting using really low settings and then switching to high settings that might be helpful to some.
The wind was pretty intense, this is in Kansas where it often is, and even though this is much better non mineralized dirt it was in a park that had tons of trash.
This is a 26 minute vid that might be a little hard to hear but the thing about it is it is totally boring, a real snooze fest...unless you are new to this unit or one of its cousins and want to watch how someone hunts with his.
I start out with low sense about 30, at this level you can see how it really makes that scanning field tight and precise.
Despite all the different signals I can still tell which ones are the good ones from the sound and how jumpy they are on the screen...mostly.
Then I switch to much higher settings at around the 8:00 mark...all metal, SL, not sure what the sense and thresh is but probably very high.
That is usually how I hunt around here even now, it took time but eventually I got very used to it, got good at moving that coil at a speed where I can tell what sounds like trash and the sharper, tighter signals that are usually the good stuff.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3hd8aNfrnmw

 

[ramer]

You have to use the detector far more than just 3 times. There is no such thing as a detector being too fast.
The faster the better. A fast detector will separate targets better than a slow one.
The F75 is a complex beast. You will have to use it for at least one season to become familiar with it.

 

[Flintstone]

Got to use the F75 today for the first time, I have had it for over a year. Got the manual down loaded, used the small 5" coil and did fine with it. I don't know what I was doing before that it just would not ground balance or what. Got it back in all Pre-Sets, and it works grate. I sure thank you all for the help, I was about to give it away. I do think in trashy parks the small coil will do much better than the 11" . Thanks for all the help, flintstone

 

[jim tn]

Glad you got the 75 perking for you. It really is a great machine. In heavy trash the 5" coil is the way to go. Very good depth and is like a laser. Good luck! HH jim tn

 

[ramer]

There you go. Read the manual twice. Go detecting with it, come home and read the manual
Again. The F75 is a mean machine and takes time to learn. I would also suggest you Google
and YouTube tips and tricks. I’be been using the F75 Ltd for 6 years and I still learn from the tips and tricks
and tricks I see on line. I also use the AT Pro, a good machine. But my goto is my F75. It goes
12 inches on most coins. So be prepared to dig your butt off. I’m getting up there in age so digging
12 inch holes is not easy for me, but you gotta do what you gotta do to find the treasures.