Hi Guys,Like I need another metal detector lol but have been thinking about the Fisher F75+ or the T2+ or maybe the Whites MX7...Would appreciate your opinions on why you think one over the other,the pros and cons that we all deal with....I currently own a Teknetics Omega version4 had since it was new AND a Tek Gamma 6000 and got a great deal on a new Whites Mx5 about 2 years ago and have been surprised how good that Whites has turned out to be since im a strong Teknetics or Fisher fan....I coin hunt mainly in parks and home sites when the spare time allows but now semi retired and hoping to do more...So yes in many ways I do have three good working coin hunting machines but I know the Omega and Gamma are getting older now, they both still look new for I take very good care of my detectors each one in its own carrying bag but not sure if one of those has a problem if parts are still available and not a huge fan of the omega 8500 ,hey Dave Johnson come out with another original Omega 8000 classic or plus lol...So Im open for ideas and thoughts and what others think of the Fisher F75+ over the T2+ or the Whites MX7...I know the Fisher has a few more options on it but is it that much better then the T2+...I think Dave Johnson once said on here that the F75 is geared a little more to coin hunting where the T2 is geared a little more to relic hunting...Ok thanks for any responses ...Markmac
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Fisher F75+ or T2+ or Whites MX7
- Thread starter Markmac
- Start date
JJames1610
Member
I prefer the mx7. I have tried the other two without to many complaints. But I like the mx7.
bigtim1973
Well-known member
I do not know anything about the mx7. I stopped liking whites when they started going to the plastic control housings but that does not mean they are no good. Just a personal thing.
The F75 will be able to save your settings. The T2 will not. The F75 has a back light and the T2 does not. Not sure how many batteries the mx7 take but probably 8AA. The F75 and T2 both take 4AA.
The F75 and T2 both come with the 11 DD coil. The MX7 is concentric. But the concentric will ID bottle caps better than a DD coil will unless you learn how to wiggle the DD coil and listen for the First Texas notorious fart sound.
The F75 has the discrimination settings on the left side of the screen and the all metal settings on the right side of the screen. The T2 is exact opposite of that with all metal settings on the left and disc settings on the right.
The ID number is in the center of the F75 screen. The T2 is a little off center.
The Confidence meter LCD blocks on the F75 and the confidence meter on the T2 looks kind of like an arrowhead and goes across the top of the screen.
IMO both T2 and F75 will go deeper with the stock coil than the whites will. Their processors are faster than the whites unit too. You will like the rod set up on the T2 and F75 will be more comfortable to swing for longer periods of time than an S rod set up.
you will probably have an easier learning process with the MX7. But if you take the time and learn either the T2 or F75 you will have a machine you can grow with. At first you will be frustrated with either the T2 or F75. But you will have to hang in there and be patient. I am making it sound worse than it is but both units IMO are very good ones.
If your relic hunting you will probably like the numbering system on the T2 better than the F75. Reason being is iron stops at 40 on the T2. Iron stops at 20 on the F75. They are similar machines in some ways but different in others.
The back light on the F75 is not adjustable and is always on. You will not be able to notice it until it starts getting dark. The Headphone jack is at the back of the control box on both F75 and T2.
You do not have to use boost mode to get good depth on either F75 or T2. You do not have to crank up the sensitivity on either unit as well to get good depth.
The DD coils will do better in trashy areas than the one the Mx7 comes with.
that is about all I can think of at the moment.
If those are the 3 your trying to make a choice on and can afford it t and want the best performance and bells and whistles, get the F75. If you do not need the back light or need to save your settings, get the T2.
But most important, have fun!!!
I have owned both and currently still have an F75 at the moment.
The F75 will be able to save your settings. The T2 will not. The F75 has a back light and the T2 does not. Not sure how many batteries the mx7 take but probably 8AA. The F75 and T2 both take 4AA.
The F75 and T2 both come with the 11 DD coil. The MX7 is concentric. But the concentric will ID bottle caps better than a DD coil will unless you learn how to wiggle the DD coil and listen for the First Texas notorious fart sound.
The F75 has the discrimination settings on the left side of the screen and the all metal settings on the right side of the screen. The T2 is exact opposite of that with all metal settings on the left and disc settings on the right.
The ID number is in the center of the F75 screen. The T2 is a little off center.
The Confidence meter LCD blocks on the F75 and the confidence meter on the T2 looks kind of like an arrowhead and goes across the top of the screen.
IMO both T2 and F75 will go deeper with the stock coil than the whites will. Their processors are faster than the whites unit too. You will like the rod set up on the T2 and F75 will be more comfortable to swing for longer periods of time than an S rod set up.
you will probably have an easier learning process with the MX7. But if you take the time and learn either the T2 or F75 you will have a machine you can grow with. At first you will be frustrated with either the T2 or F75. But you will have to hang in there and be patient. I am making it sound worse than it is but both units IMO are very good ones.
If your relic hunting you will probably like the numbering system on the T2 better than the F75. Reason being is iron stops at 40 on the T2. Iron stops at 20 on the F75. They are similar machines in some ways but different in others.
The back light on the F75 is not adjustable and is always on. You will not be able to notice it until it starts getting dark. The Headphone jack is at the back of the control box on both F75 and T2.
You do not have to use boost mode to get good depth on either F75 or T2. You do not have to crank up the sensitivity on either unit as well to get good depth.
The DD coils will do better in trashy areas than the one the Mx7 comes with.
that is about all I can think of at the moment.
If those are the 3 your trying to make a choice on and can afford it t and want the best performance and bells and whistles, get the F75. If you do not need the back light or need to save your settings, get the T2.
But most important, have fun!!!
I have owned both and currently still have an F75 at the moment.
I've owned the T2+ and the MX7.
The T2+ had EMI issues in my area so I could not use it in some places. I had the same issues with a version 4 Omega 8000. The T2+ was extremely comfortable to swing and was not too hard to setup. Other than the EMI problems it was an excellent detector.
I really enjoyed using an MX7 for a month. It is a really nice detector with a great display and nice adjustable settings and tones. It seemed really heavy to me and did use 8 AA batteries. It is not the best detector for separation or recovery speed. It was great on coins but could not handle the high mineralized dirt in my area very well depth wise.
Jeff
The T2+ had EMI issues in my area so I could not use it in some places. I had the same issues with a version 4 Omega 8000. The T2+ was extremely comfortable to swing and was not too hard to setup. Other than the EMI problems it was an excellent detector.
I really enjoyed using an MX7 for a month. It is a really nice detector with a great display and nice adjustable settings and tones. It seemed really heavy to me and did use 8 AA batteries. It is not the best detector for separation or recovery speed. It was great on coins but could not handle the high mineralized dirt in my area very well depth wise.
Jeff
dfmike
Well-known member
I have never used an F75 or T2. I have and still use a Fisher F19 and have used a few other Fisher/Tek units (F5, Omega, F44).
Regarding the 8 X AA batteries vs 4 X AA, I am not sure this is really an issue worth mulling over. All the units I have used with either 1 X 9 volt battery or 4 X AA have had a decent battery life expectancy. The MX7 with its 8 AA batteries has a better battery life expectancy as it should. I believe Whites chose the 8 X AA setup strictly for more autonomy. I went through only 2 sets of AA batteries in the whole summer of 2018 with the MX7. When I put a new set of alkaline batteries in the MX7 I never bother bringing spares for at least a few hunts as I know I will not need them.
I have fairly mineralized soil here and depth was never an issue. In fact, it's the deepest detector I have ever used (with the 950 stock coil). I wish I could test the stock MX Sport DD coil on it but I don't have one. Few people know that the MX7 has a boost mode. Set the gain at 10 and boost appears on the screen. I have used this many times in the field when my original gain setting (5-7) picks up a something sporadically. The boost mode will pick it up loud and clear. I have seen a guy on youtube testing his own F75 with boost against an MX7 and the MX7 will equal it in depth (actual ground depth, not air tests). I believe he was using a similar size DD coil in the video and I will try to find it again.
One thing I am still trying to come to grips with on the MX7 is the constant chattering (single random beeps, hiccups or clipped tones). No matter if I turn down sensitivity or increase discrimination, even in moderately trashy areas, it is constant and becomes an issue for me on extended hunts. Only my long gone F44 behaved in a similar way.
Regarding the 8 X AA batteries vs 4 X AA, I am not sure this is really an issue worth mulling over. All the units I have used with either 1 X 9 volt battery or 4 X AA have had a decent battery life expectancy. The MX7 with its 8 AA batteries has a better battery life expectancy as it should. I believe Whites chose the 8 X AA setup strictly for more autonomy. I went through only 2 sets of AA batteries in the whole summer of 2018 with the MX7. When I put a new set of alkaline batteries in the MX7 I never bother bringing spares for at least a few hunts as I know I will not need them.
I have fairly mineralized soil here and depth was never an issue. In fact, it's the deepest detector I have ever used (with the 950 stock coil). I wish I could test the stock MX Sport DD coil on it but I don't have one. Few people know that the MX7 has a boost mode. Set the gain at 10 and boost appears on the screen. I have used this many times in the field when my original gain setting (5-7) picks up a something sporadically. The boost mode will pick it up loud and clear. I have seen a guy on youtube testing his own F75 with boost against an MX7 and the MX7 will equal it in depth (actual ground depth, not air tests). I believe he was using a similar size DD coil in the video and I will try to find it again.
One thing I am still trying to come to grips with on the MX7 is the constant chattering (single random beeps, hiccups or clipped tones). No matter if I turn down sensitivity or increase discrimination, even in moderately trashy areas, it is constant and becomes an issue for me on extended hunts. Only my long gone F44 behaved in a similar way.
vlad
Well-known member
Its been called a way to cheat for maximum depth (in situations where depth is the ultimate concern):
Crank the sensitivity all the way up, and you will hear noise/chatter--now go to threshold and run it down in the negative until it disappears.
You may hear an errant pop or click, but that's usually items near the discrimination edge. (the ONLY unit where discriminated items do not false is the "off resonance" detectors like the old Super Pro
made by AH Electronics; you can actually touch a disced out item to the loop, anywhere, and you will NOT hear any sound.)
You will not use the sens up/threshold down in all situations, but the results can enhance performance markedly.
Crank the sensitivity all the way up, and you will hear noise/chatter--now go to threshold and run it down in the negative until it disappears.
You may hear an errant pop or click, but that's usually items near the discrimination edge. (the ONLY unit where discriminated items do not false is the "off resonance" detectors like the old Super Pro
made by AH Electronics; you can actually touch a disced out item to the loop, anywhere, and you will NOT hear any sound.)
You will not use the sens up/threshold down in all situations, but the results can enhance performance markedly.
dfmike
Well-known member
vlad said:Its been called a way to cheat for maximum depth (in situations where depth is the ultimate concern):
Crank the sensitivity all the way up, and you will hear noise/chatter--now go to threshold and run it down in the negative until it disappears.
You may hear an errant pop or click, but that's usually items near the discrimination edge. (the ONLY unit where discriminated items do not false is the "off resonance" detectors like the old Super Pro
made by AH Electronics; you can actually touch a disced out item to the loop, anywhere, and you will NOT hear any sound.)
You will not use the sens up/threshold down in all situations, but the results can enhance performance markedly.
I sure wish I could do that with the MX7 where threshold can only be set to OFF/ZERO or positive. I would do it at times with my Fisher F5. I'd run the sensitivity quite high and turn the threshold down to -3 and it would run extremely quiet until something good came along.