Well, have been out with the new bug now 3 times. In all honesty I like this machine and look forward to a long relationship with it. However, this machine absolutely LOVES bottle caps. I have never dug so many that were dead center in the dime, quarter range with "locked on" numbers and tone in my life. They will read from tid 79 to 85 with solid tone. Does anybody have any suggestions as to how to get around this problem? Any help would be appreciated.
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Gold Bug Pro and bottle caps
- Thread starter coindude
- Start date
Frank in NH
Active member
I have found the same thing happening with 11" coil. They will ID good in center of coil, but on front and rear of coil ID as iron. What has everyone else found happening with bottle caps? Have not tried it with 5" coil.
azsh07
Member
Hit a somehwhat consistent ID around the 70's when swept on the center of the coil but....as you get just a bit away from center you will get an iron tone.
Now some deeper coins will just give a slight iron scratch as the coils comes off the target but this is different than rusty iron.
So what is the difference is this. On rusty iron you will get a decent tone with the coil centered and slightly off center but....as you come off the target if you get an iron id about 50% of the way off the target it is iron. So say you can sweep across a bottlecap and moving front to back off of the target ( as you sweep side to side obviously) you can get a response for say a length of 8" before you lose the target of the toe or the heel of the coils. If you get an iron id for the last 2" on the back or front as you move along the length then it is iron. Again dead center it will hit good but will bounce...and you may get a bouncy id as you move an inch or two off center (for and aft ) but.....as you get farther for and aft to that last 50% of the detecting range it will go iron.
Big iron is easy as it makes a weird stretch audio even in the hi tone...it is so odd it is obvious.
Now on deeper coins let us use the same example. Say as you sweep left to right you can move the coil for and aft for 8" before the target dissapears off the toe or heel of the coil. On deep coins the tone will stay hi and ID will stay out of the iron range for almost all of that 8"...maybe just as you reach the toe or heel of the coil and just before the target is gone it will just squeak an iron id....that is usually a deep coin.
Coins under 6-7" will almost always stay in the upper ID range and never go low even as you come off the front or back of the coil...it is just the deep ones that will do it.
You also have to balance this with target strength....deep deep iffy targets are and will always be a guess....same goes for the T2 and F75...at the end of their depth it is tough to tell ebtween deep iron and a coin. Fortunately most bottlecaps are not 9" and so are not as pesky.
Go try this and pay attention to what the sound does next time you hit bottlecaps especially as you move the coil for and aft off the target...SLOWLY. You will see...it is very obvious I promise. I dig in rusty iron all day and rarely get fooled...once in a while but not often.
Now some deeper coins will just give a slight iron scratch as the coils comes off the target but this is different than rusty iron.
So what is the difference is this. On rusty iron you will get a decent tone with the coil centered and slightly off center but....as you come off the target if you get an iron id about 50% of the way off the target it is iron. So say you can sweep across a bottlecap and moving front to back off of the target ( as you sweep side to side obviously) you can get a response for say a length of 8" before you lose the target of the toe or the heel of the coils. If you get an iron id for the last 2" on the back or front as you move along the length then it is iron. Again dead center it will hit good but will bounce...and you may get a bouncy id as you move an inch or two off center (for and aft ) but.....as you get farther for and aft to that last 50% of the detecting range it will go iron.
Big iron is easy as it makes a weird stretch audio even in the hi tone...it is so odd it is obvious.
Now on deeper coins let us use the same example. Say as you sweep left to right you can move the coil for and aft for 8" before the target dissapears off the toe or heel of the coil. On deep coins the tone will stay hi and ID will stay out of the iron range for almost all of that 8"...maybe just as you reach the toe or heel of the coil and just before the target is gone it will just squeak an iron id....that is usually a deep coin.
Coins under 6-7" will almost always stay in the upper ID range and never go low even as you come off the front or back of the coil...it is just the deep ones that will do it.
You also have to balance this with target strength....deep deep iffy targets are and will always be a guess....same goes for the T2 and F75...at the end of their depth it is tough to tell ebtween deep iron and a coin. Fortunately most bottlecaps are not 9" and so are not as pesky.
Go try this and pay attention to what the sound does next time you hit bottlecaps especially as you move the coil for and aft off the target...SLOWLY. You will see...it is very obvious I promise. I dig in rusty iron all day and rarely get fooled...once in a while but not often.
azsh07
Member
be fooled by bottlecaps verses a DD coil like the 11" coil. If you can test the 10" concentric for the F70/f75 it may make it alot easier...atleast in theory. So far most people have found that the F75 coils will work on the Gold Bug however Fisher will not promise that they all will as the detector was designed with DD coils in mind.
But....we always find a way to cheat the system.....
But....we always find a way to cheat the system.....
Detectorguru
New member
I rarely dig one in colonial or civil war sites. I dislike all modern trash.