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HOW TO SAVE A BUNDLE ON BATTERIES IF YOU DON"T ALREADY KNOW THIS..

Batteries have changed in recent years. The old rechargeables we're familiar with are nickel cadmium cells, or NiCds. They served us well for long time, and still do. But they have a couple of so-called "problems. "

- They deliver about the same current and voltage as alkalines, but exhibit a sharp voltage drop-off when they get near depletion.
- They also do not have any more current capacity than alkalines, so rapid depletion devices like digital cameras drain them quickly.
- Finally, they have "memory." This means that if you fail to cycle them completely over time, from fully drained to full charge, they will begin taking only a partial current charges.
But balancing these "problems" is the fact that they are slow charge cells, so they don't build excessive heat as they replenish. They can also sit on the charger at full charge voltage without harm, due to a high internal impedance at charge.

But as good as the NiCd cell is, a new player has emerged in the rechargeable market. Todays preferred rechargeable is the nickle metal hydride, or NiMh, cell. These new NiMh cells deliver several times the current of the older NiCd's and are seen to advantage in digital cameras. These devices consume a lot of current, quickly as they operate and so these cells have become very popular in recent years. These new high-current capacity NiMh's also take a charge much faster than previous batteries, store more current as mentioned, and deliver it over a longer time at a consistent voltage.
There are a few downsides to them, too.

- They need a "smart charger," one that monitors charge current and can shut itself down to trickle once they are fully charged.
- They also get hotter than the NiCd's as they fast charge, and unregulated excess heat can damage them. Again, this is why they must monitor the current - heat lowers resistance in the cell, which causes current spikes to worsen and thus make more heat.
It's a wicked spiral effect.
- Third, they offer a lower voltage per cell, 1.2v vs. 1.5v for alkalines. And while "smart charger" prices have fallen these days, sometimes the lower voltage can be a show stopper.

For example, the average Garrett detector uses 8 AA's in series. With NiMh's @ 1.2 volts each, the total voltage yield is only 9.6V.
With alkalines or NiCd's, @ 1.5 v per cell, the total delivered circuit voltage is 12V.
Even in a 4-cell unit, like the Ace 250, four NiMh's only deliver 4.8v, compared to the 6v of alkalines.

That is a noticeable difference and depending on the unit, it may mean the detector wont work right. I've seen some reports about that. Remember most detectors now in existence were developed around alkaline batteries and eventually, NiCd's - before the surge in popularity of NiMh's. So unlike digicams, detectors are not high drain devices. They are intended to operate for long periods of time on a charge and so drain current from their power cells steadily and slowly.
SO even though the NiMh cell can theoretically deliver more current, the lowered voltage of NiMh's may cause your detector to work erratically or not at all. In that case, you will be forced to use alkalines or NiCd's.

There is no free ride and nothing is perfect. I'm an alkaline man, myself, although I'm going to give NiMh's a try this year. Their prices have come down drastically in recent times and they have advantages that can be useful - if they will work. It is almost crazy not to at least try them.
 
So rechargeables are better that why they last longer in cameras and metal detectors and the like. Its an easy comparison to do side by side which we have done many times. Our rechargeable last long after alkaline run out.
 
You can run across a bad cell from time to time, but in general it's fairly uncommon.
I don't see it very often. In most cases, a set of batteries will all read the same appx
voltage when they have been run in series for a period of time.
As far as my ace 250, I don't worry much about batteries. It's fairly low draw, and even
the cheaper alkaline cells last a pretty long time.
Where I'm much more aware of battery performance is with stuff like trail cameras.
The cameras themselves draw little current. It's the flash that is usually the real battery
pig in cameras. And in those, the cheaper batteries flake out fast vs the better brands
such as energizers, etc. And the really cheap standard "carbon-zinc" batteries really
flake out fast.
Also the voltage drop under load is much greater with those. In my current cam I'm
using, the cheap carbon cells will only last about two days before the voltage drop under
flash load will shut down the cam. :(

But if you use quality alkaline cells, there is a quantum leap in usable performance
as they drop less under load and the cam will not be so quick to shut down.
Energizer cells are among the best out there.
But I test all the cells every time I change batteries, and I rarely see an "off" cell.
In most all cases, they will read almost exactly the same as they have been run
in series, and will tend to equalize to the same appx voltage.
So while an "off" cell can happen from time to time, it's not very common.
Nothing wrong with changing out a single "off" cell, but if the batteries have been
used quite a while, I would still prefer to swap out all of them, and use the ok but
semi discharged cells in other non critical stuff like remotes, etc.
In my trail cam, it uses C cells internally. But I much prefer D cells, or even an SLA
battery. So I modified the cam with an external battery jack so I can use anything I
want.
Energizer C cells have an appx 8000 ma rating, but this will depend on the current
draw as to the exact AH rating. IE: a heavy draw will result in a lower AH rating
than the same cells used in a low draw device.
But Energizer D cells have an appx 18,000 AH rating for the same loads.
Over twice the capacity of C cells. And they both cost the same exact price. :/
Needless to say, if I use energizers, I use D cells. More than double the bang
for the buck.
It's true that most rechargeable cells hold a more constant voltage over the run
time of the cells and then drop off real fast.
But it's the AH rating that really matters as far as how long they will run the
machines. And all are not equal.
I'm kinda like Dahut on this.. I prefer the higher operating voltages of the alkaline
cells. I want the full voltage the machine was designed to use. IE: My ace 250 was
designed to use 6v, and that's what I prefer to feed it. Not the 4.8 volts of
rechargeable cells. I think the machine is slightly more stable and maybe a touch
better performing with the higher voltage. Or at least until the under load voltage
starts to match the under load voltage of the rechargeable cells.
But to each his own in this regard. Many report no problems using the lower
voltages.
Anyway, you want to see some battery pigs, try an IR flash trail cam in video mode
for a while. :/
You'll find out what a true battery pig is. My cam uses 19 IR LED's for flash,
which can draw between 1.5 to 2 amps depending on the draw of the LED's.
If I'm running in video mode with IR flash for 20 seconds a pop, that will really
separate the junk batteries from the good ones.

I was up at my OK place most of the past week, and the deer were a hopping.
Got a few videos of them, and I wasn't even baiting them with corn, etc.
I actually don't hunt much at all. I just like looking at them, and shoot at them with
my cameras. :/
I just set the cam in a strategic location and hoped for the best. And I got a few.
I even had a big buck come up to my clearing where I camp last Sunday night.
Not too skittish considering I had a lantern going, ham radio making noise,
and me tromping around. I beamed him with my light and he just stood there
and watched me a while and then slowly drifted off back into the woods.
Sure was nice up there.. Totally clear every day I was there.
Kind of recharged my cells a bit, as cement city life discharges me at a
rapid rate. Chortle.. :)
 
Yea I use rechargable in all my trail cams except the ones I have to leave out for 6 months then they get lithium. Alkaline batteries are a waste and you get much better performance and longer run time in the Eneloop rechargables.

Alkalines are a waste of money.
 
From the land of the Bluenose...so true me bouy. Also for those that take double a batteries try buying one of those campe light batteries.............big square one which is really just 16 double aa's....cheaper then buyung as such!
 
Those only come in AA and AAA sizes though. And you'll have to parallel a lot of
them together to get a really large AH rating.
I kind of prefer SLA batteries for long term use for the particular cam I'm using.
Alkaline batteries are a waste of money in the long term, but they are handy for
"quicky" packs which can be bought nearly anywhere.
Many of the rechargeable C and D cells are actually AA's stuffed in a larger
package. Those only deliver about 2500 mah or so and are no good for my uses.

They do make full size NiMH D cells, but they are only good for about 10,000 mah.
That is not too bad really, but to get 6 volts I'll need five of them at appx $8 a cell.
That's about $40 for a 10 AH 6 volt battery pack.
On the other hand I can get 12 AH 6 volt SLA's for about 14-15 bucks a pop.
I can buy two of those for less than the NiMH D cells and have 24 AH.
With the Energizer D cells, I get 12 for about $12 with tax. With three battery holders
I can use either 4-8-12 cells depending on how many AH I want.
Twelve D cell energizers is good for about 30 AH at a constant 1/2 amp draw.
So while they are throwaway, still not too bad overall.
IE: four cells is 10 AH at .5 amp draw and only costs me $4. It's a waste of money
in the long run, but they are handy being I can get refills nearly anywhere and
don't have to charge them.
I've got two 35 AH 12v SLA's I'd like to use, but I'll need a step down converter/
regulator to get my 6v. Actually, I have one here, but it's only good for 500 ma.
I need one about 2-3 amps to be on the safe side to cover the flash draw on video.
One handy thing about using the 12 v SLA's is I have a small 12v solar panel I can
use to trickle charge them and extend the run time.
 
Rechargable C and D batteries are horrid yes :) AAA and AA are the only way to go. Or get lithium AA and use C cell adapters like I do with the Reconyx cams. They last alot longer than the C cells.
 
Uncle Willy,
Last week I went to Radio Shack and bought a battery tester. I always thought when the meter reading was low, I was to replace ALL the batteries. Fortunately I just throw the dead batteries in my box and replace them. Well I tested the "Dead" batteries and only one in ten was actually dead. Makes me sick to think of all the money I have wasted in the past. Thanks Uncle Willy
Your Friend,
John D.

PS My metal detecting buddy Bruce Cappo passed away last Saturday I am going detecting without him for the first time. I sure am going to miss him. All of you forum members,Please pray for his family.
 
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