Low-Boy/LCPM
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I been looking out here.and some sadden me
- Thread starter BobbyBridge
- Start date
I use the f5 and will go against any first time user with his f75. my finds too date this summer April to today 9/4/10 503 in coins 25 rings,ea rings some junk some gold. Just sold the gold stuff today for 25 dollars a pwt (712 dollars) here in Virginia. I mostly hunt beaches. I also have a cz3 but prefer the F5. Big dollar machines DO NOT MAKE YOU ANY BETTER AT FINDING THE GOOD STUFF. Yes they will go deeper but at my age (66) I don't feel like digging down 2 feet too find a dime; LOL
PS. I work the same beaches over and over some times up to 5 hours a day. They never get cleaned out. Tonight I leaving for Va beach to see what the hurricane left behind (F5) in hand. I will post pics when I get back 40 pluse doing this
PS. I work the same beaches over and over some times up to 5 hours a day. They never get cleaned out. Tonight I leaving for Va beach to see what the hurricane left behind (F5) in hand. I will post pics when I get back 40 pluse doing this
I just got my F5 about 2 weeks ago and I am loving it. I am still trying to learn what it is telling me. Was out for about 10 hours hunting today and got my first silver ring 
. Highly trashy area and the F5 was able to separate the signal. It does seem a bit vocal from what I can tell, but when you get a good signal it lets you know. Anyone that has any input on how to set it to get the best depth in soil that isn't too highly mineralized would be great. Happy hunting.
. Highly trashy area and the F5 was able to separate the signal. It does seem a bit vocal from what I can tell, but when you get a good signal it lets you know. Anyone that has any input on how to set it to get the best depth in soil that isn't too highly mineralized would be great. Happy hunting.Nice items there and I do like that silver ring.
With the large mineralised ferrous plate - I have now realised (by reading the manual for the third time - I wonder about me sometimes) that whereas a large mineralised piece of iron will fool most detectors - including the F5 - the F5 has that brilliant fe bar bottom right. If that fills then that large but clear signal one hears is sneaky ferrous .. rusty iron .. so it is 'walk away' - now how great is that!
I don't know how to run it as hot as one can - but I run my F5 like this -
I disc to 15, which just cuts out iron and small nails as I don't want to miss any small hammered coins (of which I've found many) or our tiny Celtic Pre-Roman gold coins (of which I've found none in ten years - lol).
Then I threshold somewhere between +2 and +4. Reason being that I want a louder signal and threshold acts as a volume control in the + range, whereas in the - range it decreases susceptibility to tiny items.
Gain I run as high as it will go until the machine starts to chatter - give false signals - then I reduce it slightly until it runs stable. This I monitor regularly as I try to keep it as high as I can to get deeper. I also don't want to over-flood the ground and decrease penetration so do keep an eye on it - like headlights in the fog in some circumstances too much means too little.
I don't use notch - again because of our small silver hammered coins which can give a similar reading to some pull-tabs and also thin old gold can come up in the foil range. Actually I don't know of anyone that uses notch on farmland over here.
I tend to use D3 as I find D4 too noisy and D2 too uninformative (are there three bears and a blonde girl in this story?).
I keep an eye on the phase so that I know the detector is as ground-balanced as possible.
I dig all two-way signals unless the Fe bar fills and I tend to dig faint 'scratchy' signals by taking off the top few inches of soil to see if it is a deeper good item at the limit of detection - it is, many times.
Since reading an earlier part of this thread that mentioned how much deeper all-metal is than in disc I am now experimenting with running in all-metal to see how I like it - so far it seems a little too much on iron-infested ground but much easier to use on long-term pasture, which tends to have less metal items in it.
Most UK detecting is on farmland as local councils tend to look very unfavourably on detecting in parks. From my reading of the American forums there seems to be a lot of ruined building plots searching, as well as parks and playing fields. Do any of you get permission from farmers and detect on open land? You just never know where a company of soldiers camped for a day or two en route to somewhere .. either side of a fordable stream tends to be good, as well as around a spring - even if there are absolutely no signs of previous habitation. Also, at harvest time each field was filled with people, who also had there lunch breaks there .. say 50 people in a particular field each harvest X 200 years .. that's 10,000 people ... and people drop things. In our case it is X 3,000 years of course.
With the large mineralised ferrous plate - I have now realised (by reading the manual for the third time - I wonder about me sometimes) that whereas a large mineralised piece of iron will fool most detectors - including the F5 - the F5 has that brilliant fe bar bottom right. If that fills then that large but clear signal one hears is sneaky ferrous .. rusty iron .. so it is 'walk away' - now how great is that!
I don't know how to run it as hot as one can - but I run my F5 like this -
I disc to 15, which just cuts out iron and small nails as I don't want to miss any small hammered coins (of which I've found many) or our tiny Celtic Pre-Roman gold coins (of which I've found none in ten years - lol).
Then I threshold somewhere between +2 and +4. Reason being that I want a louder signal and threshold acts as a volume control in the + range, whereas in the - range it decreases susceptibility to tiny items.
Gain I run as high as it will go until the machine starts to chatter - give false signals - then I reduce it slightly until it runs stable. This I monitor regularly as I try to keep it as high as I can to get deeper. I also don't want to over-flood the ground and decrease penetration so do keep an eye on it - like headlights in the fog in some circumstances too much means too little.
I don't use notch - again because of our small silver hammered coins which can give a similar reading to some pull-tabs and also thin old gold can come up in the foil range. Actually I don't know of anyone that uses notch on farmland over here.
I tend to use D3 as I find D4 too noisy and D2 too uninformative (are there three bears and a blonde girl in this story?).
I keep an eye on the phase so that I know the detector is as ground-balanced as possible.
I dig all two-way signals unless the Fe bar fills and I tend to dig faint 'scratchy' signals by taking off the top few inches of soil to see if it is a deeper good item at the limit of detection - it is, many times.
Since reading an earlier part of this thread that mentioned how much deeper all-metal is than in disc I am now experimenting with running in all-metal to see how I like it - so far it seems a little too much on iron-infested ground but much easier to use on long-term pasture, which tends to have less metal items in it.
Most UK detecting is on farmland as local councils tend to look very unfavourably on detecting in parks. From my reading of the American forums there seems to be a lot of ruined building plots searching, as well as parks and playing fields. Do any of you get permission from farmers and detect on open land? You just never know where a company of soldiers camped for a day or two en route to somewhere .. either side of a fordable stream tends to be good, as well as around a spring - even if there are absolutely no signs of previous habitation. Also, at harvest time each field was filled with people, who also had there lunch breaks there .. say 50 people in a particular field each harvest X 200 years .. that's 10,000 people ... and people drop things. In our case it is X 3,000 years of course
.rick in mi
Well-known member
I like your kind of thinking Nap!! I hunt mostly old home sites ,parks and ball fields,but have often thought of old farm fields. I know of a couple where there at one time was a home or structure,but is now a corn field......good post!!!!!
It sounds a little to me like your problem isn't that this forum focuses attention to the F75 but that you don't have one. You don't have to pay 1000+ bucks to get one, I got mine for $565.
Just last week one of my clubs members was selling one for $500 with the stock coil and 5"DD in new condition. I don't know if this is common but I bet it's more common than not. The club I'm in is made up of mostly relic hunters, several members have bought the F75 only to sell it weeks later without taking the time to get past the learning curve.
Bottom line join a MD club and keep your ears open, ask around, keep a check on auction sites, maybe you'll get lucky and there will be a MD dealer in your club who offers steep discounts to fellow members or has one on consignment.
Metal detecting is a bit like being a musician. you start out with a harmony acoustic guitar, sit at home and plink at it until you get bored and give it to your younger brother or you go find other musicians, start playing with them, learn from them, get better buy a better guitar, join a band, do some gigs, get famous, break up with that band, go solo, make another band, get hooked on drugs and prostitutes, die in the gutter broke holding on to your harmony guitar....hmmm better rethink this line of thought. Seriously, I love this hobby, I have for years, but until I joined a club I was missing out on 75% of the experience. I cannot emphasize enough to beginners and other lovers of metal detecting JOIN A CLUB!!! fellowship with other enthusiast, participate in every event you can, be at every meeting, contribute what you can whenever you can, get involved. Time is short best to spend it doing what you love and loving what you do.
hope this helps, best of luck
Just last week one of my clubs members was selling one for $500 with the stock coil and 5"DD in new condition. I don't know if this is common but I bet it's more common than not. The club I'm in is made up of mostly relic hunters, several members have bought the F75 only to sell it weeks later without taking the time to get past the learning curve.
Bottom line join a MD club and keep your ears open, ask around, keep a check on auction sites, maybe you'll get lucky and there will be a MD dealer in your club who offers steep discounts to fellow members or has one on consignment.
Metal detecting is a bit like being a musician. you start out with a harmony acoustic guitar, sit at home and plink at it until you get bored and give it to your younger brother or you go find other musicians, start playing with them, learn from them, get better buy a better guitar, join a band, do some gigs, get famous, break up with that band, go solo, make another band, get hooked on drugs and prostitutes, die in the gutter broke holding on to your harmony guitar....hmmm better rethink this line of thought. Seriously, I love this hobby, I have for years, but until I joined a club I was missing out on 75% of the experience. I cannot emphasize enough to beginners and other lovers of metal detecting JOIN A CLUB!!! fellowship with other enthusiast, participate in every event you can, be at every meeting, contribute what you can whenever you can, get involved. Time is short best to spend it doing what you love and loving what you do.
hope this helps, best of luck
BuckeyeBrad
New member
similar things can "evolve" in clubbing also. I totally agree that newbies in particular will do nothing but win by joining a club. Then over time, you start to see that there are the predictable individuals in the club that are "all about me", deviate from the common code of ethics around permission, covering holes neatly, faking finds, etc etc. It's like anything else where you have to take the bad with the good.
Sorry Brad but you lost me. I don't fake finds. I'm commenting on a machine that I just purchased and am enjoying so far. That's it. If I bought a F2 or F4 75 or whatever I would be commenting on those. Your post does not make sense. Sorry. Oh I follow MDing rules too such as covering my holes, getting permission and whatever.
BuckeyeBrad
New member
n/t
boxofchocolates
New member
I have read some really good things about the F5....Sounds like fun to me.......HH......Dan
Brad is right when he says that someone new to the hobby can gain MD knowledge by joining a club.
But just because someone is in the MD "brotherhood" it doesn't necessarily follow that they will be an ethical person or someone you will like.
If you join your local club remember that no matter how friendly, everyone at that meeting is a dirt fisher. Just like you they are always looking for good spots to detect.
If you've been fortunate enough to find a good spot or two, be careful what you divulge.
But just because someone is in the MD "brotherhood" it doesn't necessarily follow that they will be an ethical person or someone you will like.
If you join your local club remember that no matter how friendly, everyone at that meeting is a dirt fisher. Just like you they are always looking for good spots to detect.
If you've been fortunate enough to find a good spot or two, be careful what you divulge.
Lizz, when I read your other thread about finding the half dime, I did ask in what part of the country you lived.........there was no expectation of your revealing exact locations. I can't blame you for not advertising a specific location on the internet, that would be way past dumb! I have only been at this about a month (the F75 is my first locator) and I have been loving it. This is something I have wanted to do since I first heard about MD'ing. I just wish there were some better places around my area to hunt.......I'm sure there must be, I just haven't found them yet!!
Best wishes for your continued success!!!
Best wishes for your continued success!!!