iron nails

[john sullivan]

after you become proficient with the explorer. can you distinguish rusty nail from silver?

 

[surfman]

Hi John, I think the answer is yes, but it ain't easy. Rusty iron seems to be more scratchy sounding. I still did alot though, not as much as I did when I first started. As you go you will dig less. It takes alot of concentration investigating the sound of the target before you dig. There is a definite sound difference between a silver coin and a rusty bolt. The good target is alot smoother sounding. Hope I've been some help, good luck, Joe.

 

[Dancin' Dave]

Hi John,

Iron has a tendency to be directional while silver is often not. If you get a nice squeaky signal, swing your coil over the target at different angles to see if it nulls out. Also, iron also likes to fade if you wiggle your coil over it rather quickly. I still get fooled once in awhile using these tricks (especially on really big square nails) but it does help cut down on the amount of iron targets that you dig. Just remember that sometimes iron and silver can get mixed up in the same hole so if you're unsure ... dig it up.

Have Fun!
DD

 

[toprightcorner]

after you become proficient with the explorer. can you distinguish rusty nail from silver?

Here is what has helped me greatly...
I hunt in Iron Mask Mode all of the time and have the alternate setting be all metal. If I come over a target that is an iffy silver or rusty nail, I hit the IM button to switch to All Metal and resweep the target. It becomes pretty clear very quick if the target is rusty iron or deep silver.
After determining to dig or not... hit the IM button twice and you are right back to IM Mode.

Also, definitely don't put too much stock in the cursor placement ID when pinpointing. In mild to heavy trash conditions, MANY of the silver coins I've found this year had FE values way to the left while in pinpoint mode. The deeper they are, the less reliable the FE reading is... and CO, to some extent, as well.
I hope this helps and good luck.

 

[stasys]

with discrimination is hard to do if you hunt in iron, for iron fields go to TTF and open screen, use 11 channel in manual noise cancel, try old 1000 or 1050 coil. looks like SE a bit more tuned to iron compare with XS possibly because on SE NORMAL sound a bit longer-more like short smooth or a bit different program. but if you hunt in moderate iron sweep 90degrees and you will get answer what is under coil.

 

[dewcon4414]

I think everyone has mentioned or agrees that pinpointing the location of the target does make a difference. Iron tends to move or the tone disappears from where you thought it was. The tones also on deep targets dont repeat at different angles. It gets frustrating because you can find a spot where you CAN make it repeat several times and fool yourself. I still dig some iron .... a good many of the times i already know it iron but its deep enough that i also know the TID will wrap around and it could be a coin. Removing that first scoop of dirt normally will tell you right off.

Dew

 

[TokenDigger]

Like many of the others, I still dig deep iron. Usually it is a large piece and pretty compact. This is in places where the coins are deep and you don't want to miss a chance at finding them. Iron nails are directional and are pretty easy to figure out after using the machine for awhile. I still have some problems with iron bolts or screws that have large thin heads or washers. Their signature is similar to a coin. I am going to try toprightcorner's suggestion with the IM button. At any rate, if it's questionable, I still dig. HH

 

[dewcon4414]

TD.... i use a pattern of IM 26 with ONE (1) block in the upper right corner disc out. It really makes hot rocks break up in fields.... but ive not seen it swing those iffy targets that have wrapped around. I used to do this with the DFX as well. Its a neat little trick and doesnt knock out any good targets.

Dew