Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Jumpy Target ID's

shooter

Member
Someone post when coins are deep the ID jump around and you check them out for good signal. What we want to know is "HOW" your checking these Jumpy ID's for accuracy? And don't say dig it.
 
OK, I won't, but that's what you have to do. After you dig a lot of "iffy" signals, you start to get a feel for the sound of what is probably going to be a coin.
 
Got it but what constitutes but how is the signal jumping and what are you looking at before you decide to dig, if your getting a jumpy sig between 40 and 80 what makes you dig it surely not cause you see an 80, there must be some solid base for that decision.
 
I agree with Crosby, there is a certain "size" and "coherency" I listen for when pinpointing those things, and as with any detector Ive used, you learn with time, what those sounds are like. Yes I look for good numbers also, and some lock on, with bounce as opposed to total scatter like as with can slaw. When deep there may be no confidence bars, or maybe one. And you know like the two silver halves I got in several locations as well as silver quarters, the confidence bars light up on the left as well as all the iron bars on the right. So whats up with that? I usually take an interest in the number 80 or better. I dont like when im getting a low bounce to 75, sometimes Im thinking, thats a memorial penny. I dont think i miss many dimes cause they either lock 69-72 or if not deep, real high numbers and very excited. Zincs if very shallow will ring out, but I use a three tone and notch out the zincs and they usually clunk in the mid tone, with some high number although I dont ignore the mid 50's to mid 60s in the mid tones as some Indian heads come in there. Most of my deep wheaties, 8-10 inches show very good numbers and good clean sounds. Lately Im focusing, as a friend who uses a non vid machine recommended, on the "length" of the sound as you swing- the penny and dime may be as intense but the penny is "longer". The dime will be a shorter blip. Thats what I like about the 75 ltd, yes it magnifies the picture (and I dont just mean decibel wise). If it didnt, it would be harder to distinguish the length of the dime and penny. Its like one of the copying devices with two pencils and you trace over the original, and while doing that the other pencil creates a bigger image, its not just darker ink, its a bigger magnified image. Sorry Im getting carried away, but does anybody know what I mean? CO
 
TONE, shooter, TONE, first and foremost. But, if you are looking for knowing "positively," there is only one way. HH jim tn
 
Sometimes the ID doesn't show up at all.
 
shooter, for old coin hunting, I almost always use 3 and 4 tones. When I get any kind of a high tone, or the 3rd tone of 4, which are often just a tic, I carefully check it out. By this I mean, I work the sweet spot of the coil over the tic and determine if it is a one way tic, two way, or from all directions and pay attention if the tic remains in the same spot and frequently glance at the screen to see if any good number repeats itself. Having done all this, I have a pretty good idea if it is worth digging. But, I would rather know either way, then walk away be wonder. HH jim tn
 
Top