I am considering the straight shaft by Plugger for my Excal II. When reading on his website, it indicated that I needed to use the lower shaft. I just went out and tried to get my lower shaft loose and it won't budge. I can only get about a turn and a half on the locking collar. Any ideas, I have tried silicone but it won't even budge.
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Lower shaft stuck
- Thread starter smkunder
- Start date
Turn and a half is about right on the locking collar. What normally sticks is the plastic piece that the locking collar pushes up against the lower shaft to lock it. Sometimes most of the shaft that is in contact with the upper rod will lock up if there is a lot of very fine sand. Sometimes soaking helps. Sometimes heat cycles help (freezer and hot water). I've heated with a hair dryer but be careful not to melt the plastic. I've used a screw driver through the coil mounting clevis to get more leverage to twist things. With the Excal lower rod, I've had one of the clevises just drop off in my hand when mounting up a coil. Might have to epoxy the clevis back in place if it twists out. Worst case, may need to break or cut off the locking collar and then see if you can get anything to move.
I've got two Excals loaded onto Plugger carbon fiber rods. Not inexpensive, but a wonderful set up. The Plugger shaft clamps look like they will not create the lock up problems that the stock twist locking collars do. As a possible alternative, if the shaft won't come apart without destroying it, Plugger does custom configure. May ask him to get you a little bit longer lower rod and use the short Excal dive shaft lower rod. I tried the dive shaft on the first carbon fiber shaft I had and the short dive rod was about two inches short of what I needed to hunt comfortably.
Good luck!
tvr
I've got two Excals loaded onto Plugger carbon fiber rods. Not inexpensive, but a wonderful set up. The Plugger shaft clamps look like they will not create the lock up problems that the stock twist locking collars do. As a possible alternative, if the shaft won't come apart without destroying it, Plugger does custom configure. May ask him to get you a little bit longer lower rod and use the short Excal dive shaft lower rod. I tried the dive shaft on the first carbon fiber shaft I had and the short dive rod was about two inches short of what I needed to hunt comfortably.
Good luck!
tvr
Maybe a little WD40 if all else fails.Good Luck
dewcon4414
Well-known member
Ive put a water hose on the end of the shaft, put the lower on the ground and gently pushed down and gotten a few off. Problem is those spring clips collect sand, you dont rinse properly EVERYTIME you use it, and aluminum blisters since its not powder coated INSIDE. If you have a warranty, believe it or not ML expects you to take them completely apart EVERYTIME. I ran into that with a coil issue. CF is the way to go .... its lighter and doesnt blister. I make my own now. Order CF and use the lower dive shaft. I use a fiber bolt and got rid of that spring clip. Mine never get broken down thou.
Dew
Dew
bootyhoundpa
Well-known member
A couple fresh water hunts while leaving the collar loose might help.... i had one that wouldnt loosen up no matter what i did..and had another that eventually let go on its own after a month of lake hunting...
Cameraniac
Active member
Had the same thing happen just the other day. The nut loosened up but the rod would not come out. I ended up squirting some dishsoap around the nut and into the holes in the shaft. After that, I was able to work the rod loose.
I've used the Plugger, CF shaft before and it worked real well. I plan to get another one, eventually.
I've used the Plugger, CF shaft before and it worked real well. I plan to get another one, eventually.
Wow, I got it apart! Took an overnight soaking of WD40 and a screwdriver through the coil mounting ears to give it just enough of a twist to make it turn a bit. it finally let loose. I then took it completely off and ran the hose up each end to rinse any sand out and gave it a good coating of silicone spray. Sure seems like taking completely apart every time is a hard one because mu coil wire wrappings come off every time. Thanks to all with their suggestions.
GeorgeinSC
Well-known member
I got mine stuck once and since then I have taken it off each time and washed it out with a strong stream of water. It is a bit of a pain but better than having one stuck. I was a bit too thrifty as I bought the aluminum shaft (Balanced straight shaft) from Plugger instead of the carbon fiber one. The straight shaft works so much better than the Snake that Minelab puts on the machine. Glad you were able to get your shaft freed up.
dewcon4414
Well-known member
They can be a bear. I wouldnt use anything especially grease that will only attract the build up of sand.
NamVetLesTreasureSeeker
New member
Hi SMKU, I know YOU already got it apart, but here is some suggestions, that I posted a few years ago, that WORK for ME!! First, always rinse ALL Water Detectors off with a HOSE
to get MOST or ALL excess S-A-N-D off the Detector, and also from INSIDE the COIL Cover!! Then, take YOUR Water Detector into a Semi-HOT S-H-O-W-E-R, and
THOROUGHLY RINSE the ENTIRE Detector OFF, and Especially FORCE Mild HOT Water DOWN Inside the UPPER Shaft, and AROUND the CAMLOCKS to remove any REMAINING Sand!! But, it will HELP You ALOT if Replace the CAMLOCKS with Pluggers SHAFTLOCKS, and I HIGHLY Recommend YOU do so!! YOU can S-A-W Off the CAMLOCKS just above the Top End, and then just SLIDE the SHAFTLOCKS Over the End of the UPPER Shaft!!, the SHAFTLOCKS have a Stainlees Steel or Vinyl SET SCREW, that YOU T-I-G-H-T-E-N Up!! Also, the Shaftlocks are Easily Removable if YOU want or need to!! Finally to HELP with FREEING a STUCK Lower Shaft!! Try G-E-N-T-L-Y TAPPING on the Bottom of the Center of the COIL with a RUBBER Mallet, while HOLDING the Spring Clip BUTTON I-N!! YOU just have to MOVE the Spring Button Clip B-E-Y-O-N-D the Shaft HOLE, and GENTLY T-W-I-S-T the Lower Shaft at theCOIL!! Then once YOU Break It FREE, gently PULL the Lower ROD Out of the UPPER Shaft!! Aluminum UPPER Shafts O-X-D-I-S-E in SALTWATER, so YOU have to T-H-O-R-O-U-G-H-l-L-Y CLEAN the INSIDE of the UPPER SHAFT with a 12ga. Shotgun Cleaning Rod and BRASS or STAINLESS Steel BRUSH Tip, or Cheaper Yet, get a 3/4" ALL T-H-R-E-A-D Rod that is about 2' or 3' LONG at any HARDWARE Store (that's what I PERSONALLY Use)!! This will remove the OXIDIZED Aluminum B-A-R-B-S, that are Created by Saltwater USE!! Finally, S-P-R-A-Y the INSIDE of YOUR Aluminum UPPER Shaft with MARINE S-I-L-I-C-O-N-E SPRAY. I-M-P-O-R-T-A-N-T, DON'T Use any SPRAY, that has P-E-T-R-O-L-E-U-M in the Ingredients, because it is HARMFUL to PLASTIC and RUBBER Coatings!! BEST of LUCK!! Les Robinson.
P.S.: If YOU can AFFORD it, PURCHASE One of PLUGGER'S Carbon Fibre RODS!! I did a COUPLE of Month AGO, and I really L-I-K-E IT (he makes all his RODS with M-O-R-E
Adjustments, than other manufacturers!!)
to get MOST or ALL excess S-A-N-D off the Detector, and also from INSIDE the COIL Cover!! Then, take YOUR Water Detector into a Semi-HOT S-H-O-W-E-R, and
THOROUGHLY RINSE the ENTIRE Detector OFF, and Especially FORCE Mild HOT Water DOWN Inside the UPPER Shaft, and AROUND the CAMLOCKS to remove any REMAINING Sand!! But, it will HELP You ALOT if Replace the CAMLOCKS with Pluggers SHAFTLOCKS, and I HIGHLY Recommend YOU do so!! YOU can S-A-W Off the CAMLOCKS just above the Top End, and then just SLIDE the SHAFTLOCKS Over the End of the UPPER Shaft!!, the SHAFTLOCKS have a Stainlees Steel or Vinyl SET SCREW, that YOU T-I-G-H-T-E-N Up!! Also, the Shaftlocks are Easily Removable if YOU want or need to!! Finally to HELP with FREEING a STUCK Lower Shaft!! Try G-E-N-T-L-Y TAPPING on the Bottom of the Center of the COIL with a RUBBER Mallet, while HOLDING the Spring Clip BUTTON I-N!! YOU just have to MOVE the Spring Button Clip B-E-Y-O-N-D the Shaft HOLE, and GENTLY T-W-I-S-T the Lower Shaft at theCOIL!! Then once YOU Break It FREE, gently PULL the Lower ROD Out of the UPPER Shaft!! Aluminum UPPER Shafts O-X-D-I-S-E in SALTWATER, so YOU have to T-H-O-R-O-U-G-H-l-L-Y CLEAN the INSIDE of the UPPER SHAFT with a 12ga. Shotgun Cleaning Rod and BRASS or STAINLESS Steel BRUSH Tip, or Cheaper Yet, get a 3/4" ALL T-H-R-E-A-D Rod that is about 2' or 3' LONG at any HARDWARE Store (that's what I PERSONALLY Use)!! This will remove the OXIDIZED Aluminum B-A-R-B-S, that are Created by Saltwater USE!! Finally, S-P-R-A-Y the INSIDE of YOUR Aluminum UPPER Shaft with MARINE S-I-L-I-C-O-N-E SPRAY. I-M-P-O-R-T-A-N-T, DON'T Use any SPRAY, that has P-E-T-R-O-L-E-U-M in the Ingredients, because it is HARMFUL to PLASTIC and RUBBER Coatings!! BEST of LUCK!! Les Robinson.
P.S.: If YOU can AFFORD it, PURCHASE One of PLUGGER'S Carbon Fibre RODS!! I did a COUPLE of Month AGO, and I really L-I-K-E IT (he makes all his RODS with M-O-R-E
Adjustments, than other manufacturers!!)
dewcon4414
Well-known member
You are an old vet...... we used to clean our weapons in the hot shower. As far as the water hose..... be careful you want to only gently rinse it. To much pressure on the knob O rings and you can firce water into the tube. You do that dance every time? If your shaft is aluminum its still going to blister or pit inside.... i highle recommend CF.
Dee
Dee
NamVetLesTreasureSeeker
New member
Hi Dee, MANY THANKS for the ADVICE on High Water Pressure!! I DIDN'T realize that could happen, but CARING for EXCALIBURS after S-A-L-T-W-A-T-E-R Use is a CONTINUOUS Learning Process!! Les Robinson.
GeorgeinSC
Well-known member
About once every Month or two (depending on usage) I take one of the brass brushes that are used for cleaning the bore of a shotgun and give the inside of the upper shaft a good cleaning.