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My Mods to My Tiger Shark...

grumpyolman

New member
I always dive fresh water so the TS is my primary choice of detector. I am hogish. I own two of them. One is set up to work as a hip mount with a straight shaft when I wade while hunting. I didn't want to hang something else on me when diving so I rejected the hip mount set up for that. I already, when diving, have a BC, 2 regulators, tank, knife, etc. etc. I decided to modify the second TS so I could just pick it up and head for the water.
I have found that all the detectors made for the water, when configured for diving with the parts that come with the unit, put the coil way to far out in front of me. If I used it that way I would be required to hear a signal and then pinpoint it while 3' away from the coil, then drop the coil and swim forward to the spot and start fanning the bottom for the target. If I didn't find it I'd have to push backward and pick up the coil and again try find the target and repeat this till I found something. Not efficient and tended to stir up a lot of sediment moving back and forth which brought visibility to zero sometimes.

I used the stock TS portion that holds the detector and has the arm cuff and angled handle. I didn't want to mount the control unit under the arm cuff as I'd always be dragging it along the bottom. So...I decided to mount it on top. I had to do some mods there to get it to fit but if you look at the pictures you can see where it put it. I then had to make a short extension that fitted to the original handle portion. I got 3/4 PVC and turned one end down a few hundredths so it was exactly the same OD as the original TS shaft that normally fitted in there. Doing that the cam lock held my extension fine. Since the short extension now had no way of hooking to the coil, I made something that was the same width as the connection point between shaft and coil and put it in the end of the extension tube. That's the yellow piece you see in the pictures.

Two more problems remained. With the control unit mounted on the top of the detector it was/is top heavy and I didn't want it to tip and be constantly banged against the bottom. I got a piece of wet suit material and wrapped it around the control box and am holding it in place with Velcro straps. I do think it may tip, but it won't be a hard wrap that might hurt something inside if it falls over.

The final problem was what to do with the extra coil wire. In this configuration, I only need a coil wire about 3' long at the most. I coiled it in synch with the natural twisting already present from the manufacturer. I am holding it that way with a couple of plastic wire ties and then attached the coil to the bottom of control unit with more ties. It rests out of the way and there is not strain on anything.

Speaking of strain. I did attach a strain relief to the headphone wire as it was making a sharp bend around the corner of the control unit going back to where it would fit onto my head. Ain't tried it yet but now it's pick it up and go into the water, put on the headphones, and drop down and start looting. Jim
 
Nice set-up....thanks for posting.
I'd like to try a TS in freshwater......when they get back in production.

Tony.
:ausflag:
 
Looks good but i think i would change the coil of coil wire arangement in case any induction is created, most wires when coiled like that create some sort of induction interfearence when current is passed through even though it is screened
 
Before I chose the length of the shaft for overall length, I hung the coil from a piece of rope, turned the unit on, listened through the headphones, and moved things around to see how close I could get to the coil before something metal interfered. In the tune mode, all metal, I could barely hear anything when I moved things. In discriminate, which I set at 2 or 3, there was nothing to be heard.
Good point on the inductance. I am hoping the shielded cable will help solve that problem. I figured I'd like that much wire as far away from the coil as reasonable and if I coiled the wire around the shaft I would still have made a spiral coil and it would have been closer to the coil. I coiled the excess wire the same way with my Fisher 1280-X and it didn't seem to make any difference. I'll let you know if it creates a problem. Thanks...Jim
 
You could maybe take it up and put it round the stand,(even run up inside the tube) that way its well away from both coil and electronic box and posible damage, although it wouldn't look as smart.
Spiraling would not create the same induction effect as coiled does. The reason i mention this is because i had lots of problems with the Sov XS with something similar
 
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