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NASA Tom CZ3D upgrade on CZ6A
- Thread starter Mike T
- Start date
I believe the only change are the windows of where targets hit. I may bring some older coin targets that would hit as a mid tone on the 6a, into the high tone ( after conversion).
If you dig all mid and high tones with your 6a, there isn't a reason why you would want the conversion (in my opinion).
If you dig all mid and high tones with your 6a, there isn't a reason why you would want the conversion (in my opinion).
Tom calibrated my CZ3D and while I feel it was worth the money, I saw very little depth increase(not that it needed any). In fact Tom will tell you there is not much that he can do to increase the depth if the machine is lacking in the first place. My own 2 cents would be to keep your 6A what it is and start looking for a 3D. Compare and keep the one you like best.
Thanks for the input, I'm not that experienced with CZ's though I've had it awhile it was a closet queen due to health issues. I air tested it and I could hear a dime clearly hi tone at 11" so I'm going to start slow and take your advice and dig all coin size hits in mid+hi tones.
What impresses me most is the quality of the unit, everything feels so rock solid and well designed, like how the batteries fit into their compartment, and how targets lock on the meter. This series must have been years ahead of anything else when it came out.
What impresses me most is the quality of the unit, everything feels so rock solid and well designed, like how the batteries fit into their compartment, and how targets lock on the meter. This series must have been years ahead of anything else when it came out.
DON'T MESS WITH THAT UNIT.
Get out there, make sure you ground balance, don't run the sensitivity too high, and start off in discrimination mode 0 ( yes, ZERO). Listen to all targets, including the low tone iron signals, so you don't get fooled by iron wrap around, and get to learn how the good high tones sound. You will begin to hear subtle differences in the good high tone targets vs. deep high tone falses on iron.
Main thing...HAVE FUN with that 6a. In my opinion, the best all around unit ever made.
Get out there, make sure you ground balance, don't run the sensitivity too high, and start off in discrimination mode 0 ( yes, ZERO). Listen to all targets, including the low tone iron signals, so you don't get fooled by iron wrap around, and get to learn how the good high tones sound. You will begin to hear subtle differences in the good high tone targets vs. deep high tone falses on iron.
Main thing...HAVE FUN with that 6a. In my opinion, the best all around unit ever made.
With 20 years experience with CZ's now own a CZ6A and agree totally with Therover and leave well enough alone and leave it as it is as it seems to be working fine..
CZ3D may be the choice of the fellows that hunt real old areas but again its just a change of facets as sort of dig more to find more and find the advise given you to spot on from the previous posters. You have an excellent unit so why fix what ain't broke kind of thing...
CZ3D may be the choice of the fellows that hunt real old areas but again its just a change of facets as sort of dig more to find more and find the advise given you to spot on from the previous posters. You have an excellent unit so why fix what ain't broke kind of thing...
Tom did the conversion on my CZ5 and while it is VERY NICE to know it is firing on all cylinders, so to speak. It did not seem to result in depth increase for my unit. As he goes through the internal settings and verifies everything is working, any improvement would depend on how far out of a correctable adjustment you have. While I felt it was worth it to KNOW everything is right, that may well not be the case for you. I love my smooth and dependable CZ5. It runs way better than my CZ7 that has not been tuned. Why I can only guess. Not looking to get it worked on. I am happy enough with a less than perfect back up.
NEBeachcomber
Member
Before you decide to just up and ship your CZ out for a tune up or conversion... check your CZ using the following control settings.
The recommended CZ3d/CZ6a control knob settings provided by the well known technician to do an air test on a clad dime are:
Discrimination = 0
Sensitivity = 5
Ground Balance = 10
Volume = 10
Mode = Salt (CZ3d) / Enhanced (CZ6a)
Then carefully measure the response distance of a clad dime from the end of you eight inch search coil.
Since I already own a CZ3D and a CZ6a... I would opt to have your CZ6a tuned for peak performance (half the $$ cost) rather than converted to CZ3D standards and then just dig the solid repeatable medium and high tones. (Even if you have a CZ that is not precisely tuned... it is still a metal detector that is used as a benchmark for the depth standards of today's newer detectors.)
Before you ask... Yes, I had my CZ3D checked out and tuned. After the tune up and recalibration I believe my "Series 1121" CZ3D gets a little more depth (about a 1/2") and it definitely identifies nickels much better than before the tune up and "window adjustment".
-NEBeachcomber
The recommended CZ3d/CZ6a control knob settings provided by the well known technician to do an air test on a clad dime are:
Discrimination = 0
Sensitivity = 5
Ground Balance = 10
Volume = 10
Mode = Salt (CZ3d) / Enhanced (CZ6a)
Then carefully measure the response distance of a clad dime from the end of you eight inch search coil.
Since I already own a CZ3D and a CZ6a... I would opt to have your CZ6a tuned for peak performance (half the $$ cost) rather than converted to CZ3D standards and then just dig the solid repeatable medium and high tones. (Even if you have a CZ that is not precisely tuned... it is still a metal detector that is used as a benchmark for the depth standards of today's newer detectors.)
Before you ask... Yes, I had my CZ3D checked out and tuned. After the tune up and recalibration I believe my "Series 1121" CZ3D gets a little more depth (about a 1/2") and it definitely identifies nickels much better than before the tune up and "window adjustment".
-NEBeachcomber
You can get the GB dead on using the bobbing method, whereas when using the pin point method, it may be a bit positive or negative (you won't know unless you check using the bobbing method). What is cool is, you can first GB using the pin point method to get an idea where the GB setting is, and then fine tune using the bobbing method. Just make sure the sensitivity is at 9-10 so you can hear the threshold change when bobbing.
In either case (bobbing or PP), the GB is pretty accurate, but if the soil is mineralized or if you are getting some false signals, it's better to GB using the bobbing method. Sometimes it is beneficial to have an offset GB ( either positive or negative), depending on soil conditions, and using the bobbing method, you can fine tune that adjustment more accurately.
In the areas I hunt, the soil is pretty tame, so I GB dead on.
In either case (bobbing or PP), the GB is pretty accurate, but if the soil is mineralized or if you are getting some false signals, it's better to GB using the bobbing method. Sometimes it is beneficial to have an offset GB ( either positive or negative), depending on soil conditions, and using the bobbing method, you can fine tune that adjustment more accurately.
In the areas I hunt, the soil is pretty tame, so I GB dead on.