Need Help With My Excalibur 1000 (Short in the Headphone Wire)

[pjroo3]

Just got back from a trip down to Myrtle Beach and my Excal 1000 developed a problem while there. There seems to be a short in the wire to the headphones (where the wire meets the ear cup). It worked fine for most of the week, but I noticed the threshold would disappear when any pressure or pull was placed on the wire at that point of the wire. It progressivley got worse as the week went on and by my last day, I could barely turn my head without it shorting out.

My question is this.... Should i seld the unit back to Minelab for repair or is there someone you would recommend that can do the repair. The detector has the blue headphones, which I really don't mind. I've loved the detector and I'd like to know your recommendations for repair. Thanks for any help!!!

 

[Critterhunter]

If you are under warranty then I'd send it to Minelab. If not, and no forum members off to help, try heading up to your local hobby store where they sell RC planes and cars. Often they have a in shop repair guy who will solder stuff for people who don't know how to solder and they are usually dirt cheap. I solder myself, but with my hobby in RC planes I've been in the local hobby shop and seen people bring in everything from toasters to other non-RC stuff to have them solder a broken wire or such. If you tell them you've got a short on the headphones and show them the area where it seems to be I bet they'd fix it for around $20 or less. Just make sure to tell them to heat shrink the repair well so it's water proof.

 

[pjroo3]

If you are under warranty then I'd send it to Minelab. If not, and no forum members off to help, try heading up to your local hobby store where they sell RC planes and cars. Often they have a in shop repair guy who will solder stuff for people who don't know how to solder and they are usually dirt cheap. I solder myself, but with my hobby in RC planes I've been in the local hobby shop and seen people bring in everything from toasters to other non-RC stuff to have them solder a broken wire or such. If you tell them you've got a short on the headphones and show them the area where it seems to be I bet they'd fix it for around $20 or less. Just make sure to tell them to heat shrink the repair well so it's water proof.

Hey Critterhunter. It is no longer under warranty. Not sure how much Minelab would charge for this type of repair?? I was hoping there might be someone on the board that has experience and would be able to do the repair.

 

[Critterhunter]

There's a few guys lurking about on the forum that fix stuff for people. If somebody wants to I'm sure they'll send you a PM. I could do it but I'm kind of funny about working on other people's detectors knowing my luck with a machine going bad for some unrelated reason or something. I've had a few people PM me about doing my remote PP switch mod on the GT but I just don't want to touch other people's equipment for the murphy's law thing. Only stuff I'll work on is my local hunting friends, because I know if their machine acts up they aren't going to blame it on me, or at least I don't care if they do...

 

[pjroo3]

There's a few guys lurking about on the forum that fix stuff for people. If somebody wants to I'm sure they'll send you a PM. I could do it but I'm kind of funny about working on other people's detectors knowing my luck with a machine going bad for some unrelated reason or something. I've had a few people PM me about doing my remote PP switch mod on the GT but I just don't want to touch other people's equipment for the murphy's law thing. Only stuff I'll work on is my local hunting friends, because I know if their machine acts up they aren't going to blame it on me, or at least I don't care if they do...

I totally understand why you would be reluctant to work on other people's detectors. With that being said.... If anyone on the board would be interested in doing my repair, please shoot me a PM. I guess if nobody is interested, I will just send it off to Minelab.

 

[Suncoast Kid]

I had the same problem a couple months ago, this post is from around that time. Hope the info helps, it did for me.

quote=OldBeechnut]

On the headphones, there are several ways to go. The GoldMasters, which I think are the best out there and one nice Gold ring will cover them. I like hardwiring everything now that I have seen the Bulgins were a bad idea. And I do think Philp will do that for you, at about 250? But well worth the cash.

Another way is the GG UW, like you have..the best way for them is hardwired...or the Ikelite connector, and the battery female ikelite. Very easy to do, your just cutting the small white connector that goes to PCB/Mainboard of the pod. Then splicing it to the red and black connector that went to the battery inside the battery pod. I do try and epoxy the connect into the endcap. I do not shrink tap these, for I want each to be seal by the epoxy just incase any water should find it's way down the connection...if done like this there will be no weaping of water to the PCB wires...Two little notes on this, make sure your gaskets are silicon greased well, and on the GGUW's, for a much better audio. Pull the right HP cup off, and take out the little transformer which acts like a audio equalizer. Once this is out there will be a big increase on the audio which many have complained about. It is sealed in with melted plastic, like from one of those craft shops. I just take it out and rewire, 2 wires in, 2 to the left and 2 to the right. Then silicon all.....

The other op is make your own

or go with cutting the guts out of the Yellows, and going with the 3m 105's then just replacing headphone cord. Best to use a CB Mic Cord, purchased from Ebay (.4 wire - 6 Ft - Coiled Replacement MIC CORD - Workman 4-6 for CB / Ham Radio...$5.20 ) Dremal out the old cord from the endcap, then dremal out as much of the wiring and blue capacitor from the inside of the cap, making sure not to break thur to the other side, if some of the wiring is left, it is fine. I try and grind from the inside in a V shape, then start on the blue capacitor. run your new cord thur the pigtail connector, then thur the cap to the inside. Cut 2 of the wires of the CB cord, then connect the white PCB connecting wire onto the 2 CB wires. I tighten the pigtail connector on the outside of the endcap, then use Mcnett Aqua Seal for the first pour on the inside of the endcap...just a little.
24 hours later I use a epoxy to seal the wires in, think it is the 5 minute loctite. Connect your white PCB connecter, Silicon the endcap O-ring, put her back together..check the Pigtail for a final tighten

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVRtlsHVsjg&feature=channel&list=UL[/quote]