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Need some suggestion to buy another Tek / Fisher!

A

aSaSSino

New member
Hello everyone!

I hunt especially on beach , even in salt water.

In some month I owned and tried several detectors, any of this with pros and cons:

- A chinese one, good only to start, good depth but not good discrimination
- A garrett 250, overvalued, but lightweight and sensitive to gold, but cannot ground balance and cannot touch wet grass and wet salt sand, no numeric target id, i hate coin bell sound
- A fisher f4, great machine, not too lightweight, not too deep unfortunately, great target separation (nice coil), no false signals, STUNNING iron discrimination (it can discriminate a great piece of iron, while other detectors tells that it's a good target, it can even discriminate the iron into the pavement of my house and still recognise targets!!! ) but when a good target is near to iron, the good target is almost totally masked, very good on the wet salt sand
- A teknetics Gamma 6000, great machine, better with 12x10 sef (never tried other coils), very lightweight, high recovery speed and very good depth, not too stable target ID after 3" of depth, still sensitive to tiny gold, sometimes big iron is seen as a good target, nice tones, but cannot recognize bottle caps with both concentric and SEF, nice to unmount and remount to put into the bag, and no need to disassemble it, nice screen, keys, no turning dials, useful volume control, 2 kind of audio jacks, very very nice!
- A garrett AT Gold, very sensitive machine despite the small coil, great depth, waterproof, stable target ID even at great depth, i don't like tones and iron discrimination but it has a strange tone to identify bottlecaps (a grunt), CANNOT absolutely ground balance on wet salt sand, CANNOT use my favourite earphones, difficult to unmount and remount cause to strange connectors, it don't fit in the garrett backpack without disassembling the rod it in three parts. It's not soooooo sensitive to gold as described, my gamma 6000 with less of half frequency has almost the same sensitivity but probably the difference will be in highly mineralized soil.

After tried any of these detectors, the best for me is definitively the gamma 6000. But now I want to make some step forward, and my choice will be absolutely another fisher or teknetics machine.

I'd like to have a machine with a good iron discrimination (like F4), good depth (at least like the gamma 6000) and better target id, to use at beach without problems, like the gamma. Especially I'd like to hear bottlecaps very well, maybe more than discriminate aluminium from gold (oh well, I would like it also :D )

What should be the real evolution for my gamma 6000 in the teknetics or fisher family? T2 or G2? I know that with G2 I can use coils from frat bros series...

Thank you and sorry for wrong english!
 
Agree with Bart !!!!!
 
So the G2 can be balanced on wet salt sand? I've seen a video from Jim but I want to be sure...

And... is it possible to distinguish bottle caps using some audio set up?

Last question: G2 or G2 LTD ?
 
I still have a Gamma, I don't think that Omega could be better in power or discrimination...
 
Thanks for the info, so I will use the gamma as backup unit and can exchange different coils... but will Omega recognize bottle caps?
 
Do you understand the G2, Monte is right in a lot of ways, but he is in the west part of the country and this is his opinion base on his uses. I'm on the east part and having a good time with mine. But in the nails and iron G2 better recovery than any out there in the T or F line up.. And to with the tone break (the only detector to have that) I can disc out all the up sliver coins? if it was a bad detector on sliver why?? I have gone to my hunted out spots and found more sliver and gold rings in the iron. Have you used a G2/ Gold bug in your in your area? Just give the detector a chance and deep may not alway mean a sliver or gold. Most of the time it means you where stuck in a hols while others where hunting.



dioramix said:
Take omega no G2.
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?80,1599393,1600219#msg-1600219
Click to expand...
 
Bart, Is the T2 just about like the F5? I have never had my hands on such a nice machine as this new F5. It has everything I like and very strong. Also thanks for the fast and great service.
Joe.
 
If you like the Gamma...pay the little extra and get the Omega. Put DD coils on the Omega and it becomes like a Tek T2. Just a more versatile machine for the little extra money than the Gamma. Non of the other Greek machines show such an improvement with a DD coil as the Omega.
 
Thank you TerraDigger!

Do you think that I'll be able to recognize bottle caps using the omega with a DD coil?

Actually they sounds like a good target, unfortunately.
 
The Omega with a DD will often call bottle caps quarters. At least that what mine does. I usually use a concentric in areas where these are plentiful. Good luck. I've used the small concentric F75/70 on my Omega and it works but doesn't get great depth. FT sure needs to provide Omega users with a smaller concentric coil.
 
I'd like to discover some trick (or a better fisher/teknetics metal) to hear bottlecaps like the garrett at series, that has a low-high-low tone sequence that sounds 100% correct to recognize bottle caps... even if I still like teknetics, this feature is really useful for me when hunting beaches :(
 
There are several methods for bottlecap identification with the DD coil on Fisher/Tek units.

The weakness of the DD coil on steel bottlecaps comes from the extreme variations in the shape of the field response within several inches of the coil. This, as it turns out, can be turned into an asset. A normal straight sweep (with center of coil) across the target will tend to give the highest ID reading (a quarter) on a steel bottlecap, but if you go off toward the side or to the front and rear, the ID will usually start jumping around a lot more than it would with a coin.
Dave Johnson - Head Engineer for First Texas Products

(personally, I like to use the heel edge of the coil while sweeping target, to do this technique. You can practice it at home. It will become apparent very quickly as to what a steel bottlecap sounds like.)

Because certain bottlecaps will read as quarters on the DD coil of Fisher/Tek units you can also do this: When you get a quarter reading, start raising the coil upwards while continuing to sweep the target. A coin will continue to give a solid smooth two way signal as the coil is raised. The signal will get fainter as coil is raised, but will still be a smooth stable coin signal in both audio and TID (target id number)(coin may vary 1-4 points in TID). The bottlecap however will eventually start to have the audio signal break up and the TID will start to vary by 10-30 or more numbers as the coil is raised. (that wide ID number variance is the tip-off)
You can also use the raising coil technique combined with the coil heel edge technique to make it even more effective.

My opinion only....but I think all that bottle cap discriminator functions do, is to sense the signal instability of a steel bottlecap, then electronically re-modulate the signal into something (blanking out/high-low signal) that lets the user know its a BC. The above techniques allow the user to do the same thing but at a greater depth/accuracy. The Tek T2 for example has bottlecap disc built into it, but I found these techniques work better than letting a machine try and do it. They go deeper and are more accurate than machine based BC discrimination.

Also, a DD coil will misread target ID's within approimately three inches of the 11" DD coil due to the physical construct of a DD coil. Its not a Fisher/Tek failure, its due to DD coil design. So if you have a strong signal, raise the coil 2-3 inches higher while sweeping coil and you will get a accurate TID.

(words in parentheses are terradiggers)

These above techniques work. This info has been posted many times on Findmall by myself, Monte (edge pass rejection technique), Dave Johnson and others. Use the search function here to look up Omega information. Just about every concievable question has been asked and answered already. Not being harsh or condescending. The info is in prior postings.
 
I also wanted to add, that generally, not always....when the bottlecap is very close to the coil it reads strongly as a quarter. As the distance of the coil increases..the ID numbers start dropping into the low 70's & 60's. Just practice this at home. You'll see how easy it is to disc bottlecaps. I used to get all excited when I got a quarter reading and start immediately digging....lol
Now I do the the above methods prior to digging any quarter/half dollar signals....saves alot of time:)
 
I tried this tecnique several times but I don't own a DD coil, but only concentric and SEF. This is why I asked for 11" DD coil infos... I'd like to know if with 11" DD coil this tecnique works better than with SEF coil..

Using the front or rear edge of a SEF coil, when testing bottlecaps in air I can hear the ID into the IRON range, but when testing in mineralised ground, or wet ground, unfortunately I can hear this iron response even on cupronickel coins...

ok, I will buy a 11" DD to test... :D
 
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