Needing Suggestions.......

[SAINTaholic]

First time poster....... Living on a large lake that has well over a hundred years of historical population on it (tons of well-traffic / public areas), I've often wondered what treasures might there be. Not having any experience what so ever in metal detecting. I do feel that it's something that I will enjoy. However, my situation is somewhat "two-fold"; I'm not willing to spend the initial high dollar expense in buying a real nice detector mainly cause until I do try / go out there and hunt, I will not be certain if this is something that I'll want to continue to do / pursue. But on the other hand, I am afraid that if I go out and purchase a low cost / "cheapie" detector, I might spend 99% of my time digging up old nails and pull tabs (this will probably discourage about anybody the most). So my personal fix to this situation was that maybe I could find a Used "higher-caliber" detector on the internet (places like www.craigslist.com ) for a fraction of their origional cost. Of the little bit of information I've read, there are basically three types of detectors (VLF, PI, and BFO). Out of the three, the best ones are VLF followed by PI and to completely stay away from BFO's (PLEASE CORRECT ME if I'm wrong on any of this). I've read and pretty much understand the technology behind these three. But other than that, that's all I know. Getting back to the internet and looking for a used detector. I've seen an ad for a Whites CoinMaster Classic 3 for $75. From the little bit of information, it is to my understanding that this is a VERY OLD unit (again, correct me if I'm wrong on this) which really deters me from being interested. Another concern is the operation of a detector, meaning the "needle" type indicators or a digital indicator. I really want something that I necessarly dont have to have a degree to learn how to read what it's detecting. I realize that I'm probably asking for the world here (easy to use, very smart distinguishig between junk and goods, and cheap). Any / all of your comments is highly appreciated.... Oh another person who put up a detector that I've been talking to has one from Radio Shack (it's this type: www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3098887&cp=2032062.2032397&pg=2&parentPage=family ). Yes, I know it's a real cheapie but on the other hand it is a VLF and the best part is that the guy is only asking $25. I've noticed that it's a "needle" type indicator which being that I know nothing about reading this type really scares me. In all honesty, Im thinking of spending no more than $100 for a used one. Do you think I can find a decent one (one that matches my needs) for this price, or am I just dreaming? Once again, any input is much appreciated.

 

[Rob (IL)]

Buying a used unit is OK, but only is you buy a used name brand and not one that is 30 years old. For instance I bought a used Whites IDX as a backup for $165 dollars.

If you wanted to start running and you used street shoes, you would soon have shin splints and stop running. If you tried to play golf with wooden shafted clubs you would have no success and also quit.

So either but a new lower end name brand or a used newer brand unit. A junk unit no matter how cheap won't work. Check the forum classifieds. For example I've got an old 6000 series 3 sitting here. It's Whites, it's old, it's heavy, and it works perfect. If I was selling it, I would sell it for $100 bucks. It's a Whites has an excellent meter and still is great at finding coins. Whites classics are also good. Rob

 

[licn2chill]

Welcome to the forum Saint-aholic...I found myself asking the same questions not too long ago, but after reading as much as I could on a few different forums, I found that the general consensus was to buy the most expensive unit that you can afford. It will be easier and in my opinion, keep you from becoming so discouraged that you'll want to move on to some other hobby. I would keep my eye on this forum and look at the few other good ones that will have a site where others members have listed their old detectors for sale. Many of these members have graduated to a bigger and or better model and want to sell their older ones, and, you can compare the information with what others have to say about that particular unit, get info, and before you know it, you'll get a good feel for who's providing you with good solid information, you can trust those members, here. I convinced my wife that if she'd not sqwak too loud when I bought my White's MXT, I'd let her keep the first diamond ring I found...and then she could consider the unit "paid for"! (by the way, I'm still searching for it, but having the time of my life doing it)!

 

[SAINTaholic]

Thanks for the replies. Yeah, it definately makes alot of sense regarding buying a decent type of MD / and not going the cheap route. Reading both of your responses will definately increase my "willing to purchase" price range. Please dont get me wrong, I have no problems in paying high dollar for things that I like / get into (infact, more times than none I often spend way more than I should on things that I really like). But on the same hand I've also had a history of paying way too much for things that I thought I'd like and ended up not liking so much...... Here's what I hope will be an easy question to answer: Name any MD's (if possible) that fit the following criteria:

** Can detect both Coins and jewlery (silver / gold).
** Used price $200 or less.
** Able to accurately discriminate between junk and other (with an emphasis on "accurately").

If there are none that I can possibly find at that price, then what would your lowest price guess $$ on what I would have to spend on a used unit that does match these features?

Once again / please let me emphasize that I am not typically a cheap skate. For example, if this is something that I'm going to truly enjoy, I'll have no problems with spending up and into the thousands on a MD. I just dont want to make the same mistakes that I've made in the past on other "hobbies" that I thought I would enjoy (I think we all can relate in some way to this theory) and end up having a very expensive "dust" collector.

 

[Bob S]

Check and see if there is a MD club in your area.
Go to a meeting and meet up with and talk to some of the members.
Find out what they use and why.
See some of the things they have found in the last month.
Maybe some one of the members may have a backup unit that he may be willing to let you
use to go on a hunt or 2 with him so you can get a taste of detecting in the real world.

 

[SAINTaholic]

I realize that this is a "Whites" biast page, however: Is a Garrett's Master Hunter CXIII a good MD? The person selling it is asking $250 for it. Is that a good price for the quality?

Oh and yeah, I have posted this same question in the "Garretts" biast page, lets just say that they've been less responsive than you guys.

 

[licn2chill]

SAINT-aholic, I'm really surprised by the lack of replies that you've gotten on this forum so far, usually you'll get so many that you have to wade through them. Back to your questions, I too, I was a little apprehensive about putting out so much money into a hobby, but you know what...I've found that I have really used my MD and have even invented ways to use it. First of all, I'm a real history enthusiast, living in the California Mother Lode country, I've made a lot of friends that own old ranches and property near here and am able to "wander" around looking for artifacts, many of them are gold miner associated, everything from old locks, tools, and even a jade handled jack-knife. I'm still looking for that elusive $20 Gold Piece, but I have a target. Next, I go to the coast a lot fishing with my buddies and I always take, and most importantly, MAKE TIME to go hit a few of the local beaches. Now, because this is so much fun, I've found that I do a lot of history research, searching for (on E-bay, Amazon, etc) for old books about shipwrecks and historical sites along the Northern coastline then I go out and hit those areas. By the way, I'm headed to Pismo Beach next week with friends and family, and you guessed it, I'm hauling my MD along and can't wait to get there to start using it. My dream target there is, mmmmm, perhaps a big nasty old diamond ring with a bunch of rubies or emeralds surrounding it. When I'm close to home, I hit the local lakes' shorelines where the swimmers hang out, and the tennis courts with the sand beds, and it's hard to imagine but I've even taken my boat into the interesting looking old coves on these lakes and have found old coins back under the oak trees, along the stone walls and in places you'd never think of there being anything. Still looking for that $20 gold piece. I'll find it yet! The point is, make the investment, pay the bucks and then during those rainy or cold days coming up, get your library together, maps, articles, books, magazines and do a little research on the computer, you'll get the bug bad, and then I'll expect to start seeing some of the stuff you've found, and hang in there, remember, presistance pays off! As long as there were Joaquin Murrieta's and Black Barts out there, there's always the chance I'll stumble onto one of their hiding places!

 

[therover]

I see in your post that you live on a large lake. Will you be detecting near or in the water ? If so, then the options can vary, since most metal detectors are not water proof. Regargless if you are looking for an inexpensive detector, if you plan on going near the water or in it ( even ankle/knee deep ) then a waterproof detector takes the pain out of frying it if it gets dropped in the water.

I would assume that on this lake, there were beaches...so that means you would want to get out into the water and hunt. I bet there is lots of good stuff there.

Sorry to day, but wanting a good detector that is going to have accurate discrimination, be able to go deeper than 5 inches, be reliable and fun to use, will cost you more than $100. And if you want a waterproof one, save your money until you can get a good one.

 

[BarberBill]

You might consider watching for a clean, used White's M6, MXT, or XLT. All are very capable detectors with the XLT being a bit more complicated than the other two. You'll pay a little more, but you will also be able to resell at a reasonable price after a few outings if you decide it's not for you. Several other cheaper options are the Whites Prizm series and Garretts Ace250. Be aware that a large part of the discrimination accuracy you mention is tied to the operator's knowing the responses of his machine and that does take a bit of learning. There's no way you won't dig a fair bit of trash if you really want to pick up jewelry and coins. It goes with the territory. My two bits
Good Luck,
BB

 

[Shovelhead]

It sounds like we need to get a little back ground on you, as far as do you have any health limitations, you say you live or plan on detecting at a lake, do you plan on detecting in the water (over knee deep) or do you plan on detecting the beaches or grass areas (picnic places) or going out around the lake (maybe desert) nugget hunting all these things have a lot to do with what type of detector you will need, and like it was said before it is best to buy what you can afford and even then you will find a reason to buy another one or two and yes this forum does lean toward Whites and I have nothing but Whites and you find that you want to know what is in the ground and how deep it is before you dig it as I did and that is why I bought a Eagle SL 90 and before that I bought a Whites SL Classic III and it didn't have a meter on it or tone ID and I think because it was a Whites I was able to sell it at our MD meeting and got my money back then I bought an Eagle and then I bought another Eagle for the wife and the a deal came up for a XLT and I bought it cause it is lighter than the Eagle and just recently I bought another XLT and as for what was said earlier about the XLT being more complicated than others that is wrong cause all you have to do is turn it on and it will ask you to raise the coil to waist high and press enter and then ask you to lower it to the ground and press enter and then you are ready to go and you could go hunting but if you wanted to do some changes or as you get better or get to know the detector better it has enough other things on it to keep you busy for awhile and there are guys that join our MD club and you ask them what kind of detector they have and they will say a Whites DFX and they are just getting started and most of them find that they don't need to buy another detector cause they went out and spent about $1,100.00 roughly or there abouts but they are usually pleased with that unit but it is all personal preference cause you might not like one with all those bells and whistles and like I said I have an XLT but I am still looking for that deal on a DFX

Jeff

 

[Old Katz]

For $200 you can get a nice litle detector, brand new with a warranty. Any less than that and its probably junk, in my opinion.
The F2 is only $198 with a free 4inch coil. The Ace 250 is $212 and does as well as some of the higher end machines. Just don't expect
depth much past 6 inches with the Ace . Sometimes it does deeper depending on the size of the target or the ground your hunting in. The F2 is much deeper.Just spend the extra money and get the F2 or the Ace 250!
Good luck.
Katz
"Well, what are you waiting for?"

 

[jmaryt]

charlie needs to change the color!..it looks like somebody "puked" on it!..yuk!..i never cared for charlie's detectors!..i never liked the tones on 'em,and that "bell" tone "almost" made me turn physchotic!

(h,h!)
j.t.