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New Explorer SE

StephenA

Member
OK, Been playing with my SE and reading the book. I really like the smart learn for trashy areas but I am not comprehending the IRIN MASK function. When do you use it and why? My mind is in overload right now but I am getting there.
Thanks for the input
Stephen
 
Steve
Think of iron mask as another screen that can be adjusted for however much iron you are willing to accept and hear while detecting.
I use iron mask when relic hunting, set to one notch before full wide open screen.
It will still knock out most common junk iron targets and will allow the Explorer to re-set quicker between targets. It also gives me the ability to run 3 seperate hunt screens at the push of a button.
In other words, I can push the iron mask button to OFF and it puts the Explorer back into disc mode, push the detect button one more time and it goes into dual digital. Hence ... 3 seperate screens set up whatever way you want to hunt or check targets with :)

Good Hunting
Mike
 
Congrats on your new machine!:detecting: Here is how I use the iron mask. When I am looking for jewelry or coins I use the factory preset for iron mask. Therefore when my coil passes over any Iron objects, I hear a null between the threshold hum. The good targets will have tone ID. I still know that iron is present because of the null. Especially in trashy areas full of iron, nails, and other trash, it eliminates some of the unwanted signals. When I am relic hunting, I hunt wide open with NO iron mask, thus the ALL METAL MODE. An example; with iron mask on and My coil passed across a cannon ball, there would be a brief null between the threshold. With iron mask off, and in the all metal mode, their would be an audible tone and the digital reading would probably be 31-26. With iron mask on any targets that fall into the iron readout range on your screen, will not sound off. if you check your smart find screen the iron signals will hit to the left of the screen. Hopefully I have helped you. I am fairly new to detecting so, if I missed a few things maybe SNOWY or some of the other seasoned Vet's can help:yo: Happy Hunting Grounds,

Savage.
 
Greetings, Mike. Just wondering if using one notch before full wide open, will eliminate nails which hit on my machine at 31-31:confused: and still pick up the desirable iron relic signals? Happy Hunting Grounds,

Savage.
 
Yes it will for the most part, the reason I like to use one notch is because it knocks out the small and sometimes curled nails that become a pain is the arse. But will still let a square nail in, I collect them.
No machine is perfect and some trash will still slip thru, especially rusted washers and such ... but the desirable big iron we like to find comes in loud and clear.
The Explorer is an incredible machine as you well know, just last weekend I pulled a nice Gold Pullman Standard Railways 25th Year Anniversary Token from the Bessemer Plant that actually had a nail laying on top of the token! It's a little bigger than a quarter, haven't weighed it yet but it's HEAVY.
My hunting buddy had just got finished hunting the area with his Whites IDX Pro. It was just 6 or 7" deep so depth wasn't the issue, he just shook his head in disbelief. :thumbup:
Sorry the pic kinda sucks, the flash reflects off the token and makes it tough. Maybe I can get a better shot of it in the daylight.
H.H.
Mike
 
Hi Stephen,
Like Mike stated, I also set my SE up to hunt with the disc screens, to set them up I use the LEARN MODE and teach it all that I wish to find and at the press of a button you have the availability of the other screens including Iron Mask. I usually set my Iron Mask to ALL METAL and use Ferrous tones that way all ferrous metal will give a low tone and everything "good" will give a high tone. That said, pull tabs, aluminium bottle caps and cans will also give a high tone (or good tone if you like) so in AM you tend to dig a lot of wine caps and pull tabs, keeping in mind that if you don't dig pull tabs your not digging GOLD RINGS.

All the best......Boony
 
Hi Mike,
I just love that gold token, I have a couple of Sovereigns in my coin collection, however I'm still waiting to dig one with the detector, it must be the best thrill.

Regards....Boony
 
I could dig a sovereign, I'm gonna try to make it across the pond someday soon ... I hope :beers:
Any kind of GOLD makes my old heart flutter.
Mike
 
Mike pretty much nailed it as it is a separate disc pattern or can be a all metal or almost all metal. I use mine too to have a extra way of checking some signals and sometimes I will even hunt in iron mask set at one notch from all metal. One of the big things I like is when I get a iffy signal in my disc pattern I can put to iron mask on which will open up the screen so I can hear everything and tell if there is another target close it it or if it is iron or not. It does work great and I have found some coins I would never would have if I would not have switch to iron mask at-30 and heard the trash beside it.
 
Thanks so much...I am learning a lot from Mike B just down the road and I really like getting as many opinions as I can. This is actually easier than I thought it might be. Now if this cold weather will just pass over the sunny south things will be great! Mike I am hangning around the fire today!
I am sure I will have more questions soon,
StephenA
 
Thanks Mike. I will use your advice next time I hit the field:detecting:. Great find on that Pullman token. 25th anniversary makes that quite old. A lot of railroad memorabilia collectors would have a fit!! Happy Hunting Grounds,

Savage.
 
Someone in my club who takes pictures for a living said try holding a piece of paper under the flash bulb and direct the flash to just above the object. He said should stop the glare off the coin.
 
I like to hunt in all metal, wide open with ferrous sounds. I set up the machine for six tone ID. Iron tone (low) will blend in with my threshold tone. You can set your tones up by using objects from iron to a silver dollar and all in between. I do this because I don't like the null. It bothers me! By seting your threshold tone to match the iron tone it will just blend right in. Its not a perfect match, but its close. Also by doing this it seems to process all signals faster than having a null. There is no recovery time to deal with at all. If you take the time to set your tones, you can tell the difference between pull tabs and nickles as well as zinc from copper. I like using the digital numbers, but I am working on using sounds first and then checking the numbers. I really do not mind hearing all the signal tones as it gives me a good ideal as to whats there. From what I've read in other post, I think I will add fast on to this set up in trashy areas I have hunted before and will hunt again, one in particular where I found a 1877 seated quater and savage found a silver whatz-it that looks like something from an old ship captains table-ware (salt shaker?), and another one of our club members found a brick of lead from the war of 1812. Most of our members will not hunt there because of the trash and all I have to say to that is (oh well)! I'm going back with my 5" coil, wide open baby! If its too hot in the kitchen, then get out!
Well I can see that I have went a lot futher with this subject than I intended to, so its time to say happy hunting grounds and back out.:stars:
 
Hi Mike, I told Rosemary you said hello and she says Hi! If your in town around the second Monday of the month stop by Chet's Seafood for our Christmas party and you can meet myself, savage and krusty. We are the Explorer hunters in the club. This has been our first year in the club and I think we have made an impact! LOL They are a great bunch of folks and we had to work hard to hang with some of them, and you probabaly know some of them. Savage will be awarded the treasure hunter of the year at the party and I'm real proud of him being he didn't even want anything to do with detecting when I first mentioned it to him. He's a detecting monster and I don't get any rest now!
Anyways we are looking forward to meeting you.
 
I also have set up my machine similar to Sunzabeach and it has made a BIG difference with a faster response & recognition. I just hate the recovery time from the null (mine is a converted XS that had the software changed to make it an EX II, the one I bought was a display unit and it has a much longer null period, confirmed with both Savage and Sunzabeach's with them many times), only real complaint with the EX II other than the contrast in direct and sometimes indirect sunlight. There are times when I have time for the slow and sure and use it, but not bloody well often if I can help it.

So Iron Mask on, set at -16, and let the signals tell me everything. I plan to experiment with just a little change, -15 to -14 and will see how that goes as I theorize I will have very little null, but with the Factory setting of -06 and the Iron Mask off - the null bites big-time. Good luck all, - "Wide Open and Wide Eyed"

Krusty
 
Greetings, BruceWood. We also have a photography expert in our club too. He suggested taking a plastic milk jug and cut the front off, place the object in and direct the light through the side. Adjust the light until the object is plainly visible. Without the flash, take the picture. Some of you "photo buffs" call it a cocoon. Happy Hunting Grounds,
Savage
 
cool post, good idea making your threshold match low iron, I'm experimenting with doing away with my threshold while wide open. I've also had a great deal of luck with fast in trashy areas, I'm gonna go back to them with fast off and see what happens. Problem is, I could go back on any given day with the same settings and probably find more stuff anyway. That's the problem with these experiments, there's not enough control of the variables so there is no absolute accuracy of the results.
 
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